Vacuum Take Off Adaptor For Carb Balancing

[sedelen]

Surely you've seen this regarding Hayden Krank Vest Plus?

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=192306

[OldVet66]

"sedelen", he obviously got a Hayden valve with the defective umbrella valve that somehow slipped through. They have JAMES in raised letters on them. Hayden will replace them. The unmarked valves that they use do work, and rest assured that I would not post any results of something I use if there was any question in my mind that it didn't work. My valve and my friends both failed closed like the one in the thread you mentioned (talk about fogging down the neighborhood). Hayden was more than helpful in resolving the issue. The new umbrella valve works with no issues.

[EvilEnfield]

back when i did stuff with the old Dneprs/Urals and K650's its the same trick we used, running an adapter plate with a nipple for 8-10mm vacuum line between the two cylinders, it gave more bottom end torque and power, which is quite nice when you are running 900+lbs bikes with a taller rear diff gears. Also, some with dual carburetor air cooled VW's, same principal. But with VW's it all depended on which carb you ran, as some of them ran like (__!__) with a sinc tube in between.

Man I love Urals etc.

[Spyder]

One would think that they would have batch numbers and recall the bad ones instead of making it the end-users responsibility...

[OldVet66]

They are trying to trace the problem as we speak. The umbrella is simple to change, they know the umbrellas with the raised James stamp is a defect and will send the new part. There is nothing wrong with the valve body, just the rubber valve or whatever it is made of.

[willie]

WOW ! ! ! Day and night difference. I just did this to my 750 and SO smooth in the bottom end of exceleration... Can't believe they didn't come this way stock...

Thank you very much for this tip Willie.

Always glad to help.
I'm looking forward to reading about your experience with the Hayden Krank Vent Plus.

Willie

[OldVet66]

ALL of the Pro Stock cars & bikes use electric vacuum pumps to create a vacuum in the crankcases. This increases ring seal & makes more power. This also lets you use lower tension rings for even MORE power & still have good ring seal. It WORKS!!! On a GS motor it is good for 4-5 horsepower & WILL pull oil out of the motor if placed wrong or you have too much oil in the motor. Just so you know, P/S bikes only use 2 quarts of oil in them. Ray.

"willie", "sedelen" pointed out a thread to me and I found this quote by "rapidray". I guess the Hayden valve is producing enough vacuum to be beneficial without being too powerful, three to five lbs. I am getting much better gas mileage and the bike is a "silky" performer at low speed. By the seat of my pants it also has a lot more power, but I'm happy to settle for what I can measure, and that's better mileage!

[willie]

OV66, thanks for copying the info posted elsewhere by RapidRay. I had read it when he posted it, but reading it again was a good reminder. I think I mentioned elsewhere that I had my reservations when you commented that your way of connecting the vacuum lines was far superior to the way the PO had connected mine. I did it when I got home and became a believer. My buddy, Doug, who you met at the WV Rally, was so impressed with the difference that he did the same thing on his ZRX and had similar results.
I'd like another "review" of the Hayden Krank Vent Plus ONLY because of the cost involved. Otherwise, I'd be the one providing the review. Also, its hard to believe the bike could have even smoother low speed performance. Your bike must be all the more impressive now. And, 4 the record, I'm being sincere not sarcastic.
Willie

[OldVet66]

Thanks willie. The Hayden valve gave me as much of a change as you noticed on the 1-4, 2-3 vacuum crossover mod. There is no doubt that it works and Ray's explanation of what vacuum does for the pro stock motors and ring seal makes a lot sense, except this is working on a smaller scale. The placement comment he made also, sort of falls, in line with what I see. When I had the valve connected directly to the crankcase vent, I got a milky jell build up of oil and vapor in the relief ports behind the umbrella valve. Placed down by the clutch housing, all you see is an almost clear white film with no buildup of oil being sucked out. Of course, this is a one way valve and not a pump. This and the vacuum crossover work together to really refine these motors on the low end and most likely through the entire power band, but not as noticeable. The price is a little steep, but the replacement umbrella valve is only about 75 cents and the valve body is a lifetime design. Installation is simple, so if we ride together in the future, You're perfectly welcome to try it out. The increase in mileage will pay for itself in a short time. This seems to be still improving, the last tank under the same driving conditions is up from 36.5 to 42.5 mpg.

[adam]

So if I read this right all you have to is leave the sync adapters on an just connect them with some hose and I should have better low end response as well as better overall engine operation? Maybe I will try it.

[willie]

So if I read this right all you have to is leave the sync adapters on an just connect them with some hose and I should have better low end response as well as better overall engine operation? Maybe I will try it.

Ahhh, yep. You read it right. Having done this on my last 4 GS's, I've found the most difficult part is installing the adapters. It used to be the most expensive part too but not after reading how to make the adapters from cap screws. Now the entire mod is pretty cheap. If I were to rate it on a "Bang for the buck" scale, I'd say its a close second to the coil relay mod. Its that good.
Willie

[OldVet66]

For the last three tanks of fuel, the mileage has remained at 42-42.5 MPG running it fairly hard. So it's official, vacuum in the crank case gets you better mileage. I have gained 6 MPG just using the Hayden Krank Vent.

[willie]

Ironic that you should post a followup today as I have been giving this idea alot more thought and discussing it with friends as recently as this afternoon. Having read through the various threads pertaining to this idea, I recall someone posting the idea of using a vacuum booster valve. I'd like to find out if that person tried that idea and, if so, what were the results. I'm leaning towards giving that "low budget route" a try both on my 1100G and my 650 V-twin Hawk GT. If I do, I'll be sure to post my results.
Willie