do i have to buy a carb synch - tool??
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Running too lean
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jordraatt
btw, anyone know if it is strictly necessary to synchronize the carbs to get things right after installing pods and Dynojet??
do i have to buy a carb synch - tool??
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I imagine you would like all carbs pulling their fair share- drawing about the same mixture- a bench sync only gets you close. The pods and exhaust are bound to effect things. Maybe you could borrow one, post your location. Personally ,I don't think you need it to do right away.1981 gs650L
"We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin
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jordraatt
Originally posted by tom203 View PostI imagine you would like all carbs pulling their fair share- drawing about the same mixture- a bench sync only gets you close. The pods and exhaust are bound to effect things. Maybe you could borrow one, post your location. Personally ,I don't think you need it to do right away.
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AJ
BTW, straight pipes usually suck for both sound and power. They also make getting your jetting right very difficult. Straight pipes give low back pressure, which usually kills the bottom end up through the upper third of the rpm range. You do 95% of your riding from 2000 to 7000 rpm. Just saying....
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jordraatt
yes, i'm aware of that but it's not really straight thru.. luckily there is some backpressure in them..
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jordraatt
okey, now i have installed the dynojet kit.. and it is still running lean.. wtf is this??
it got a little better than with the sigma racing kit though.. it stops revving on around 3000rpm, especially downhill.. uphill it's running much better, with much more rpm..
shall i try adjusting the float height, or the needle clip position??? any suggestions??
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05-09-2012 06:40 AM i think i'll focus on that later then.. also adjusting the valves.. fine-tuning later
Have you also verified the float height is within spec and the emulsion tubes are clean?
After that plug chops to verify the jet sizes you are using is next, main jet first, pilots second, and needle setting last as I recall.
I know lots of questions but your best bet IMHO is to start with the valve adjustment and go from there not missing anything. Carbs are not difficult but you have to do them one step at a time without taking any shortcuts.82 GS850L - The Original http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...ePics067-1.jpg
81 GS1000L - Brown County Hooligan http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...ivePics071.jpg
83 GS1100L - Super Slab Machine http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...t=DCP_1887.jpg
06 KLR650 - "The Clown Bike" :eek: http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...nt=SERally.jpg
AKA "Mr Awesome" ;)
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MisterCinders
Think of the valves and carb cleaning like a pyramid.
Valves are the base If your valves are tight, nothing you do at the carb level matters. Indeed, if you adjust the valves, it changes the vacuum pull, on which your jetting relies. Even perfect carbs have to be resynched after a valve adjustment.
Once your valves are good, you know compression is there. Remember, valves are either right or wrong. There is no other result there.
Next, IMHO, is ignition and timing. These generally need no attention unless you have electrical problems, but ignition is easy and quick to verify. Not quite as binary as valves, but unless you are trying to tune timing at the fringes, most ignition situations are basically right or wrong.
With compression and spark rocking, you get to check air and fuel.
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NeyborDayfid
Originally posted by twr1776 View PostI know lots of questions but your best bet IMHO is to start with the valve adjustment and go from there not missing anything. Carbs are not difficult but you have to do them one step at a time without taking any shortcuts.
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