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82' GS650 Sooo Close!

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    #16
    Why did you just soak the jets? There are passages inside these carbs that you CANNOT see that can be gummed up. Follow the procedures properly, rebuild with new orings, and put them back on. Adjust the valves, make sure the airbox is back on and oiled properly (if you're using pods then make sure the bike is jetted properly for them), and set your mixture screws to 3 turns out to start.
    Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

    1981 GS550T - My First
    1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
    2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

    Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
    Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
    and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

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      #17
      Originally posted by pancakeshake View Post
      When I take the carbs off, the float bowls have a good amount of gas in each one of them so I assume so.
      Next time you attempt to start it, after cranking a bit, pull spark plugs and see if they are dry. Remember not to leave it on prime very long.
      1981 gs650L

      "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

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        #18
        Originally posted by tom203 View Post
        Next time you attempt to start it, after cranking a bit, pull spark plugs and see if they are dry. Remember not to leave it on prime very long.
        They were dry. This is why im convinced that the gas isnt making it from the carbs to the engine.

        Does the airbox have to be 100% installed and sealed in order for there to be enough suction to get the gas pulled into the engine?

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          #19
          Originally posted by pancakeshake View Post
          They were dry. This is why im convinced that the gas isnt making it from the carbs to the engine.

          Does the airbox have to be 100% installed and sealed in order for there to be enough suction to get the gas pulled into the engine?
          Yeah, gas ain't there.
          When the throttle plates are closed, there is enough suction to pull fuel up "choke" passages and find it's way to cylinders, BUT, when you "cleaned" carbs and reinstalled them, is the idle stop screw now holding the throttle plates too far open. The plates are just about fully closed when idle stop screw is set ok- orherwise the "choke" system won't work. Bike should at least start with or without airbox.
          1981 gs650L

          "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

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            #20
            Originally posted by tom203 View Post
            Yeah, gas ain't there.
            When the throttle plates are closed, there is enough suction to pull fuel up "choke" passages and find it's way to cylinders, BUT, when you "cleaned" carbs and reinstalled them, is the idle stop screw now holding the throttle plates too far open. The plates are just about fully closed when idle stop screw is set ok- orherwise the "choke" system won't work. Bike should at least start with or without airbox.
            Butterfly's are very close to being fully closed.

            Should I could decrease the idle to make them even more closed?

            also...



            Thats my problem right there, and he was saying the air box is a main part of the bike not running right.

            Im gonna secure the airbox nice and tight in all places and try that, then if i get nothing, ill play with the idle to decrease the butterfly's opening.

            Hope and pray.

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              #21
              You don't need a buttoned up airbox to get this thing to start- you need an tight airbox to make it run right AFTER it starts. I'd drop the idle stopscrew all the way; next, try blocking airbox opening with your hand as you crank it. I'd find it hard to believe that all 4 carbs are plugged.
              1981 gs650L

              "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

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                #22
                Ok, I had several of the same problems after a rebuild. Since i dont know exactly what has been done heres my 2 cents
                1)follow the carb cleaning instructions found on this site to the t. Then do a good bench sync.
                2)be sure your idle circuit air screws are not screwed in all the way closing off the idle circuit.(the little ones on the front side of the carbs) Start with the about 2-2.5 turns out from lightly seated. if they are not, inspect them to be sure the tips are not broke off, again blocking the passages.
                3)make sure your airbox is in place. and in good condition.
                If all is done, then i would look at checking the valve clearances and then maybe an intake leak. Definitely dont skimp on the carb cleaning. use new orings as well. theres a member here on the site that will sell you an oring kit that includes all the orings you need for your carb rebuild.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by tom203 View Post
                  You don't need a buttoned up airbox to get this thing to start- you need an tight airbox to make it run right AFTER it starts. I'd drop the idle stopscrew all the way; next, try blocking airbox opening with your hand as you crank it. I'd find it hard to believe that all 4 carbs are plugged.
                  Welp, for this bike it must be the all in the airbox.

                  Buttoned it up nice and tight...BRAP! Fired right up and ran fine.

                  Literally the only thing we changed since it wasn't going.

                  Thanks for the inout guys! Got another runner in the shop

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                    #24
                    NICE! good to hear.

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