High RPM when turning

[yankeerider]

My 85 GS550l has had a problem with high RPM when turning the bars left and right since I bought it. I re-routed the cables and now the rpms go up to 3500-4500 when i turn right, and drop down below 1000 when i turn left. Guess is it is still not routed correctly, ideas?

[tkent02]

Routing plus your cable is adjusted too tight. When you let the throttle snap shut, you should hear a loud "Clack" from the carburetors no matter where the bars are turned.

Usually a few mm of free play is enough.

[AJ]

Good suggestions from TKent above. You need the cables a little slack. Too loose is better than too tight.

Download the manual from Bass Cliff's website and you should find a manual to show you the proper routing for the cables.

Don't feel bad, as this is a fairly common problem if you've had the cables off before. Check both the throttle and the starter ("choke") cables. Get someone to help you to move the handlebars to full lock while you watch down at the carbs. You should be able to see the cables tighten when they bind.

[Agemax]

as said, adjust the freeplay on your throttle cable so you get a slight play on your throttle at all handlebar angles

[MisterCinders]

After wresting with a sticking throttle cable one time, my carb installation ritual goes like so:

1. Attach cables to carbs finger tight
2. Open throttle and let snap shut with bars straight
3. Open throttle and let snap shut with bars full left
4. Open throttle and let snap shut with bars full right

If I don't get a crisp snap at any position, adjust the cable connections at the carbs. If all is well, tighten the cable nuts to lock them in.

[yankeerider]

Thanks for all the help, I'll try it out. I'm sure one of the responses will solve the problem

[DannyMotor]

I have mine mounted with zero tension on the cables... then adjust the slack with the adjusters on the throttle mount.

[DanTheMan]

I doubt you've had BassCliff's welcome yet, you will, but in advance, here's the link to his site for all things GS. http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

[yankeerider]

DannyMotor, I have tried that but it only works when I have it turned. Once I straighten out the bars it stalls out unless I keep on the throttle.

[Agemax]

why is every body so fascinated with Basscliff's web site? he is not GOD! buy a manual, use a bit of common sense or if you arent that clever take your bike to some one who knows what they are doing!!!!!!!!

[MisterCinders]

why is every body so fascinated with Basscliff's web site? he is not GOD! buy a manual, use a bit of common sense or if you arent that clever take your bike to some one who knows what they are doing!!!!!!!!

B-b-but BassCliff has pictures.

Plus the grainy B&W pictures in the Clymers and/or Service Manual are frequently impossible to make out in detail. They won't say anything about charging system problems, certain fuel screw settings, and other developments of the past 25 years.

Clymers has some errors in how it approaches several tasks, such as valve adjustment and engine removal.

The Service Manual assumes that you have access to a stock room full of OEM parts and "special tools" made by Suzuki. It also assumes that the read is a real mechanic that will know how to do a lot of basic things.

[Agemax]

just makes me laugh as every different complaint says "look at basscliffs website" he will help you out. why does everyone els bother posting if basscliff can solve all your problems?
can basscliffs website find me a set of white taylor leads, or tell me what setting i should have my steering damper on? or where can i buy a bearing?
any one that uses this site obviously has internet access so USE IT and find out for yourself

[DannyMotor]

DannyMotor, I have tried that but it only works when I have it turned. Once I straighten out the bars it stalls out unless I keep on the throttle.

That sounds like your push-cable is tweaked. Take the cables off the carbs... screw the set nuts on the metal ends ALL the way to the large hex stop.... Tighten the plastic adjusters on your handlebar mount...

Re-install the cables (push towards the front, pull towards the back) and just blip the throttle and let it slap shut... if this is OK, repeat the process at full L and full R lock... If this works, snug up the lock nuts on the carb end, and just tweak the PULL cable on the bar end til you get rid of the majority of the slack.

If this doesn't work... something is very, very wrong.
1. Time for new cables.
2. You're pinching under the tank.

The throttle cables should route BEHIND the headlight, but INFRONT of the fork tube and ABOVE the headlight ear, then run down the RIGHT side of the frame and duck THROUGH the cross members in FRONT of the coils, and pop OVER the cross member behind the coils.

Try that.

[850GT_Rider]

why is every body so fascinated with Basscliff's web site? he is not GOD! buy a manual, use a bit of common sense or if you arent that clever take your bike to some one who knows what they are doing!!!!!!!!

What did he do to you? No, he's not a god, nor does he claim to be.

All he's done for us (and continues to do) is provide a single-site place for folks who DO know what they're doing to help those who don't, if they're so inclined to read and learn. He greets every new visitor with a welcome and a sign-post to that collected wisdom, and asks nothing in return.

That collected wisdom, including routine maintenance, upgrades and just plain helpful hints FAR outshines the Clymer and other manuals that were wrong when they were printed, and haven't been updated since the Reagan administration.

If a question-poster won't refer to Cliff's site, what makes you think they'll read a manual?

[cowboyup3371]

Who ****ed in your wheaties this morning Agemax? Cliff's site is just a central repository for many things people need and may not find right away. Lighten up.