Gs 450l half throttle bog

[Swim_fan02]

Hey all. New to the site here. Just got an 81 gs 450l for free from a friend that didn't run well. After fixing the electrical issues with the stator and r/r and battery now to get it to run well. It has aftermarket slip on pipes and pods are arriving tomorrow. As of right now it goes good slowly rolling on the the throttle but when I give it a snap it bogs then goes like a raped ape. I have taken the carbs off and completely cleaned them checked all fuel and vacuum lines and cleaned petcock. I've tried running seafoam through it with no avail. Ignition and all electrical seems to be ok. I'm just starting to get a little frustrated with this. Also when I install the pods am I going to have to swap out the jets? Please help. Thanks in advance.

[MisterCinders]

You will need to re-jet for pods and pipes. BassCliff will dump a bunch of info on you. Check the stock jetting for your bike, then see if there is a DynoJet kit for that model. If so, get a Stage 3 kit and start tuning from there.

[Swim_fan02]

Stage 3 kit would be nice but idk about spending $90 on jets and whatnot when there's cheaper jets out there.

[MisterCinders]

Pretty sure the 1981 bikes have CV carbs, and those needles won't adjust for the increased airflow that pods and pipe bring to the party.

You might save a few shekels playing with individual jets, but if you stay lean on the needle range, you'll spend a lot more than $90 pulling out burnt valves.

Your call, though.

[Swim_fan02]

What would you recommend jetting it if I went individually.

[mvalenti]

+1 on what the others have posted here about jetting. And when you clean your carbs, there are NO shortcuts. You NEED to disassemble everything, dip them for at lease 24 hours and buy a rebuild kit. It will take you a while to tune the carbs, especially with pods. As others have said in other posts on this same subject (its been beaten to death) there is no magic combination that will work. What works for one, may not work for another, but you would be close.

[Swim_fan02]

@myalenti. I cleaned that carb inside and out and had the parts soaking in cleaner for at least 2 days while I installed a new stator. Inside of that carb looks like it just came from the factory. As far as the jets go what would be a good starting point as far sizes?

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. Swim_fan02,

Make sure your intake system is tight with no air leaks. This can wreak havoc on engine tuning. It sounds like you have cleaned the carbs well. Just in case, you may want to have a look at the tutorials on my little website. (They're not mine, I'm just hosting them.)

With modified intake and exhaust, a jet kit will make it much easier to get the air/fuel mixture right at all throttle positions. The Dynojet kit has specially tapered and slotted needles to make tuning the midrange a snap. That's where you'll have the most trouble with your modifications.

Let me dump a TON of information on you and share some GS lovin'.

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.

If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. This is what NOT to do: Top 10 Newbie Mistakes. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...



Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[pete]

Hi mate and welcome!

I have pods and pipe on my '82 450 and mine bogs just off idle because it's actually too rich.

I went 8 sizes up on the mains and raised the needles one notch (Aussie models have adjustable needles).

I haven't gone back and tuned it properly yet.

Once it gets off idle she pulls well enough, but I think will be better when I spend some time.

Oh, and CV carbs need to be jetted from the mains down...

[Swim_fan02]

Thanks for the help guys. I found that it was just bad gas that I had gotten. I siphoned the gas out of the tank and put some fresh gas in and ran it for a whole and she ran great. I am now noticing a vibration at about 50mph. Chain tension seems to be good. I'm not sure if it is aligned properly as I don't know how to do that. Or even if the wheels are out of balance. Any tips wod be great. Thanks.

[Swim_fan02]

@basscliff. I'm trying to stay low budget on this bike as I'm not sure as to how long I plan on keeping it.

[koolaid_kid]

Since you are trying to stay low budget, this is about as low budget as you can get: "Although your bike's rear wheel may seem to be in-line-according to the stamped lines on the swingarm or adjusters-the factory markings are notoriously inaccurate. For years, savvy (and thrifty) riders have used the "string method" of verifying that their wheels are aligned correctly. You need a string a little longer than twice the length of your bike, a rear stand and an assistant. Find the center of the string and wrap it once around the leading edge of your front tire, an inch or so below the axle. Now, pull one end of the string on either side of the bike to the rear. Lie down on your stomach and pull the string taut at both ends. Have your assistant make sure that the string is lined up evenly off both sides of the front tire. When the string is pulled tight from the front to rear tire, it leaves a slight gap at the back of the front tire because the rear tire is wider. While you sight down the string, have your assistant adjust the wheel so the gaps between the string and the rear edge of the front tire are equal on both sides. Keep your hands steady so the string only lightly touches the front of the rear tire. Compare the gaps on either side at the back of the rear tire; If they aren't equivalent, the adjuster on the side that is closer to the string will need to be tightened."

This is taken from How to align your chain
I totally disagree with how to clean and lube the chain, BTW. Never let WD-40 near your chain, it is bad for the o-ring chains. Use kerosene, it is relatively non-flammable, inexpensive, non-penetrating and easy to use.

[Swim_fan02]

Thanks koolaid. I'm going to check that when I get home.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

If the vibration is coming from the engine (as in "buzzy), this can be due to out of sync carbs. A vacuum synchronization of all four carbs will ensure they are all receiving the same amount of air/fuel mix and doing the same work. This makes for a smoother running engine, no tingling at the handlebars.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Swim_fan02]

How would I go about vacuum syncing the carbs? Is that something I can do myself.