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Are k&n's better than my airbox?
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Matt
Are k&n's better than my airbox?
I have an 81 750 Ex, should I re-jet & eliminate my bulky airbox?Tags: None
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Honestly? Why?
Suzuki designed these bikes to run with the stock airbox better than you can ever do once you switch to pods and start the long process of rejetting. So, if you are wanting to go to pods, make sure there's a valid reason first. Make sure you did a PROPER carb rebuild, valve adjustment, synch, properly oiled air filter first.
Now, if you are missing the airbox altogether and cannot find one then yea I'd consider it but try to stay stock first.Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace
1981 GS550T - My First
1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike
Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"
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geronimo
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airbornespud
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35611
- Torrance, CA
Lets see...$125 for K&N's (that let dirt into your engine because they don't filter that great) and $125 for a jet kit. What was your question again?Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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koolaid_kid
Don't forget the pipe. I have all 3 on my GPz, but it is highly modified. And I tuned it using a wideband (sniffer) which is much easier and more accurate than plug chops.
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gearheadE30
If you need to ask that question, then the answer is definitely no, and you should keep your stock airbox.
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Billy Ricks
If you were going with a free flowing pipe to finish the package it might be worth doing. With a jet kit it's not that tough to get a bike running right with pods.
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DannyMotor
Just get a KnN drop in filter so you can sub-consciously think you're getting 25% more power and saving 50% more in fuel economy.
Listen... I ran my bike with NO air-box when I first got it started... it popped, sputtered, and would not want to rev over 5500rpm...
I threw the air-box on it... and the thing WOKE UP. It's stupid easy to work on, and changes you make, actually have an affect on how the bike performs, like jetting, needle setting, air and fuel screw adjustments.
Getting pods will make your bike near impossible to tune 100% correctly. They look cool... sure... but who cares. Wouldn't you rather keep reliability and ride-ability and forgo the headache of constant tuning, tinkering, and general displeasure in life itself?
Wait... yours is an 81' right? CV carbs... yeah, don't do it. Not worth the hassle.
Try changing your gearing... maybe do some head work and port it, but keep the damn air-box.Last edited by Guest; 05-23-2012, 10:46 PM.
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CCC-TT
I just cut off the airbox at everything rear of the tank so it is easily removable along with the carbs. Just covered up the large hole that was made and left a very small opening, about the size of the air opening in the stock airbox and she runs just like before. Used a screen filter as opposed to foam. Even checked the plugs after a good ride and they look the same.
It took some playing to get the size of the air opening correct but now that it is I'm happy with the results. Especially being able to easily remove the carbs from now on.
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DannyMotor
So... what you're saying is... your current setup is as though you took the crumb tray out from under your toaster, drilled 4 holes in it, and threw a screen over it?
I'd like to see a picture of that. What did you do with the stock rubber 'velocity' boots?
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CCC-TT
Velocity boots still on. I'll take a picture tomorrow.
Basically think the first air chamber off the carbs(or the last chamber as the air enters the carbs depending on how you want to look at it) is the only thing left. Its smooth all the way around other than a small vent which allows air into the chamber, then the rubber boots, and eventually the carbs.
edit: I do have to say I was intrigued/impressed byt the design of the rubber "velocity" boots when I opened up the airbox. I didnt really have any ideas in my head as to what I would see insind but it definitely had more design influence than I expected to see. After that I understand why the pod filters would be more difficult to get to run correctly... They just are not refined enough compared to the design of the stock airbox to provide the same drivability.
I may eventually go back to a stock air box but for my goals now, what I have created works for me.Last edited by Guest; 05-24-2012, 12:38 AM.
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Matt keep your stock air box and buy a drop in K&N filter. And if you go to an aftermarket pipe (I'm assuming you haven't yet) it is sooooo much easier rejetting the carbs.sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
2015 CAN AM RTS
Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.
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The velocity boots keep pulses from adjacent carbs causing interference with air flow. they straighten the stream too. The airbox forms a capacitive reactive mass of air that dampens the engine pulses and ensures a stable supply of air is available.
None of that happens with pods, forcing a up-jet and radical changes to the mixture and air circuits. Eventually you can get it right and have worse mileage with minor increase in power.Last edited by duaneage; 05-24-2012, 01:04 PM.1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely
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