1 more issue: Hanging Idle.

[DannyMotor]

Fixed!! Boot bolts were fine. It was the fuel screws too lean!!! Thanks guys!!

[TheCafeKid]

Not to pi$$ in your Wheaties, but how lean were they?? If your clamps are bottoming out before they're tight, you may consider replacing them. Also, check your boots again. Soft and pliable doesn't mean good. If they've cracked and or pulled away from the metal flanges they're moulded around, they'll leak there. I made this mistake once on one of my 1000Gs. They felt nice, but within a few days after getting her on the road a couple had completely pulled away from the flange. Needless to say it sucked major air there, and ran like schit limping it home to replace them. It's at least worth a look-see while you're home, vs having a situation away from...

[DannyMotor]

The boots are new... The fuel screws were a 1/4 turn lean.

[Nessism]

Did you check the fuel screws to make sure there are no broken off tips in the carb bodies? The bike is running lean for some reason, or has an air leak.

[DannyMotor]

Needles are brand new from z1. Nothing broken.

[DannyMotor]

Oh mains are 102.5, stock needles raised one notch.

Just rode it to work beating the bagesus out of it and its 100% better than it was. Absolutely no hanging or stumbling.

[Nessism]

I suggest you keep playing with the mixture settings. If the idle hangs then it's lean, if it sags when warm then it's rich. By playing with the settings you will learn how the bike responds to each setting.

BTW, opening the fuel screws increases the amount of emulsion entering the engine, and opening the air screw allows more air into the emulsion. By increasing both you are trading off one against the other in terms of increasing the idle richness.

Good luck and glad to learn the bike is running better.

[TheCafeKid]

I mentioned this in someone else's thread about the same issue. The replacement float needles most often sent by many suppliers, including the ones ive picked up from Z1, are the length used in CV carbs. Stock VM float needles are a couple mm or so shorter than these. I've had issues with using these in VM carbs before, resulting in them over flowing when set to by the book float levels. With the added length id have to think they mess up the float height setting from stock, which is where you'd definitely want to use a fuel level gauge as Ed has pointed out and made tutorials on building on a couple of instances (something I STILL need to make, myself)
If you still have your old float needles compare them, and you'll likely see what I'm saying. I have saved a couple dozen of the older, shorter type as I can't seem to source them anywhere else. However, in the few sets of "modern" carbs I've worked on (both Keihin and MIC) I've found they use a shorter needle so this may be an option as well. They also have a rubber tip instead of Alu/steel/ whatever they're made of, dunno if that would not work in our older types, but I don't see why not...

[DannyMotor]

I'm using the stock float needles and every float is set to 22mm at the lip, left and right. Its spot on... no overflow and no leaks.

[Nessism]

I'm using the stock float needles and every float is set to 22mm at the lip, left and right. Its spot on... no overflow and no leaks.

The floats should be set at 24mm, not 22mm. By setting the floats low, they let more fuel in, which makes the engine run rich.

[DannyMotor]

Manual says 23mm +/- 1mm. So I figured higher is better... Its a lot better than the 26 i accidently set them at the last time through... stupid TCCS models screwing me up.

[hampshirehog]

Float height spec on the 750s depends on the bike. It's either 23-25mm or 25 -27mm. That's all 8 valve bikes and I can't remember if it's the early ones or the late ones that have the higher figure.

The spec for your will be in the carb sticky somewhere I'm sure.

[Nessism]

The Suzuki factory manual for USA spec bikes call for 24mm. I've never seen 23mm nor 25 - 27mm before.

[DannyMotor]

This is in my Clymer. It says TCCS models 26mm, PRE 1979 models, 23mm +/- 1.

So, I dunno.

I did just order new clamps from Boulevard Suzuki... just to be safe.

And I also found that my throttle does a weird hang-up thing... especially if you're revving it above 4k, shifting fast, and letting the revs drop, the throttle kinda sticks...

It's 100% fine just put-putting or riding spiritedly, but CRANKING on it and being obnoxious, it has a bit of a hard time turning. I wonder if it's simply gas wiping off any lube from the cam breather, or something.

Nothing physically wrong with the cables, just oiled them, adjusted them, and oiled the throttle slide.

Also, adjusting my "push" cable helped with the throttle "snapping" back closed better... it's more responsive now too.

[Nessism]

One thing, why are you using an inferior manual when you can download a real factory Suzuki manual from Basscliff's site for free? Second, what is TCCS?