Pod Support Program

[Big T]

MC,

I think the problem is that you're trying to support the pods, when you really need to support the back of the carbs

A small bracket that fits on the float bowl screws on the outside of #2 and #3 (or between 1-2 and 3-4) and secured to the frame (or propped up on the cases) should do the trick

[MisterCinders]

MC,

I think the problem is that you're trying to support the pods, when you really need to support the back of the carbs

A small bracket that fits on the float bowl screws on the outside of #2 and #3 (or between 1-2 and 3-4) and secured to the frame (or propped up on the cases) should do the trick

If you are going to use any of the carb screws, I'd stick to the top covers. The bowls go on before installing the carbs. Pulling one screw to fit a brace is probably no big deal, but you are usually synching carbs after a reinstallation, so adding a step to replacing those tops will be easier than doubling back to the bowl screws.

[AJ]

I've been thinking about the same thing on my 1100. My plan is to use an exhaust pipe hanger like this http://www.amazon.com/Walker-35209-E...8939070&sr=8-5
This has a small section of reinforced rubber strip to help absorb some vibration.
Straighten the lower piece , drill a hole or two and bolt to the rail that connects the carb bank together in the back. Bend the top piece and wrap around a frame tube with some rubber around it. I

[yoshisakan]

You could always try propping them up with a cinder block

Hello, I am Mister Cinders, and I use pods.

Actually, I am looking for some mechanical support ideas.

Recently, I had to replace my intake boots because at least one had developed a crack along the upper seam. The boots were otherwise pretty soft, clean, etc.

I suspect that the weight of the pods/carbs cantilevered on those boots contributed to the cracking. Without the airbox bolted at the back, the intake boots have to support more weight than originally intended.

Before my new boots get addicted to crack, I want to rig up something to support the carbs/pods from the back end, taking some of the stress off the boots.

I tried just tying a loop of wire from the pods to the frame, but it looked ghetto as hell. Getting it taut was too tricky. The pods/carbs don't have that much play in them, but the small jiggle they get when you hit a bump is precisely what I aim to secure. There also was no good way to center the wire, since looping it under the 2/3 pods put the wire in the path of the idle screw, making it a PITA to adjust under the tank. So the wire approach looks crappy, doesn't give the support I want, and interferes with idle adjustment. Strike out.

Has anyone found a clean way to support the rear of their pod/carb assembly? I thought about using a pipe strap or even rigging up something with some light cable and a turnbuckle so I could really lock the back end down. If there's a way to support them from underneath, that could be cool, but I don't see how that might work.

Ideas?

[7981GS]

I have thought about making a "T" type bracket that would mount under the two center carbs and bolt to the block somehow.

Eric.

[TheCafeKid]

"Behold! Mount Problemus!!"
"that's a mole hill..."
"Nay!! It is a grand mountain!!"

For what it's worth, I've never run any sort of "hanger" on podded bikes, and have never had an issue. It may be more of a concern on the 8v bikes as I could see the weight eventually pulling the rubber from its flange. But could it not be so simple as a piece of used coat hanger hooked under the dual throttle cable tower (mindfully it doesn't interfere of course) and wrapped around the frame or bend an eyelet into the end and secure it on a coil bolt or something? Part of the draw to pods is ease of removal. Why complicate that with some infernal bracketry, no matter how bling-tastic??

[old_skool]

Pod support group... When I first read the title, I though maybe you pods users started a group therapy session for all the non-oem-airbox bashing you may have taken

[Big T]

If you are going to use any of the carb screws, I'd stick to the top covers. The bowls go on before installing the carbs. Pulling one screw to fit a brace is probably no big deal, but you are usually synching carbs after a reinstallation, so adding a step to replacing those tops will be easier than doubling back to the bowl screws.

Why would you install the bracket after putting the carbs on?

Install the brackets as you assemble the carbs, install the carbs, fasten the brackets to the frame

[JimmyR]

I guess one advantage to switching to RS carbs has been that they are lighter and narrower than the CV carbs I replaced. However I have been thinking of making a little bracket that attaches to the bar that runs along the top of the carbs holding them all together. It shouldn't be too difficult to make something that attaches to a couple of the screws there and can be hooked around the frame above. Easily removed and you would barely see it.

[MisterCinders]

"Behold! Mount Problemus!!"
"that's a mole hill..."
"Nay!! It is a grand mountain!!"

For what it's worth, I've never run any sort of "hanger" on podded bikes, and have never had an issue. It may be more of a concern on the 8v bikes as I could see the weight eventually pulling the rubber from its flange. But could it not be so simple as a piece of used coat hanger hooked under the dual throttle cable tower (mindfully it doesn't interfere of course) and wrapped around the frame or bend an eyelet into the end and secure it on a coil bolt or something? Part of the draw to pods is ease of removal. Why complicate that with some infernal bracketry, no matter how bling-tastic??

It's only after my recent split boot that I became concerned about the bracing.

The used coat hanger idea makes sense, and I started exploring something along those lines, but it's a bit tricky to rig that hanger to both (a) be sufficiently taut to actually support the carbs since they only flex a tiny amount; and (b) still be removable without complications.

As far as other solutions go, I prefer "hidden" to "bling," but whatever system I use will have to be simple to pull.

Your post reminds me of another possible anchor point though, the top of the rack where the throttle pull sits. I think you could snake a hook or loop in there without interfering with the idle screw or throttle operation. If so, that is a pretty short path to the top of the frame and would not show once the tank goes on. It could also be easy to remove, since you have to go in there to disengage the throttle cables to remove the rack, so popping another connection in that area would be NBD.

[mvalenti]

Pod support group... When I first read the title, I though maybe you pods users started a group therapy session for all the non-oem-airbox bashing you may have taken

LOL I thought the same thing...

[MisterCinders]

I was going to do a whole 12-Step gimmick ("First step is to admit that you are powerless against the sexy look of air pods" . . . "You must now make amends to all the carb circuits that need new jetting" - etc.)

But some of you guys might really be drunks, get offended, etc. v0v

[old_skool]

LOL I thought the same thing...

Yeah, but looking at your avatar and sig, were you more in the line of hoping, as to join?

[jesustheplumber]

i don't know if you are comfortable with welding or not but, i would say the best option would be to put the pods on the carbs while out of the bike, then tack a strip of similar metal across all 4 pods, then simply run a brace up to the frame or down to the engine once you have them all mounted up.

[mvalenti]

donald sutherland knew the dangers of "the pods"....
I dont fall into the pod group either...