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Thanks to this forum my machine is once again everything it should be -mechanically anyway.
Short and sweet.
A hanging idle developed slowely and steadily on my 79 GS1000E.
This leaves the engine revving above 2500 RPM when shifting between gears and whenever idling. I could bring the idle down by blipping the throttle very sharply - but I've learned that this is just "tricking the carbs" and is not true idle and does nothing for the shifting while riding.
Idle problem happened to be more pronounced once engine was warmed - sounds like an air leak then right?
Problem is diminished or goes away when engine is put under load but comes back and stays once accelerator is increased.
Idle air screw adjustments did nasty things on the order of confusing me and adding differing symptoms. After the real issues were corrected the suggested ideal range for idle air screws (1 - 1 1/4 turn from gently bottomed out) seems just about right.
After reading multiple times the necc of starting from square one and methodically going through the important points outlined in such gems as Basscliffs site http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/ and others linked there I became convinced that I and my bike are no different than any other GS owner and thier bike, and that half measure just leave me stranded/frusterated.
A hanging idle, I've read, is most commonly caused by a lean condition which is often caused by air leaks into the carb through poorly fitting parts, worn seals or orings, other issues caused by wear or poor maintainance.
The o-rings possibly needing replacement was nagging at my gut, and my mind kept falling back to that as I couldn't remember if I'd actually replaced them when I hurridly threw this thing back together a couple of years ago.
One of my other posts from long ago explains my method of simplest removal of VM carberators for the GS1000 - and it gets easier each time. Total removal time this trip was less than 10 minutes, no swears, no damage, no blood. And I just simply couldn't verify certain things without removing them - so...
Once removed I found that one of the round slides wasn't returning as quickly as the others.
This prompted me to open the top of that (#4) carb, and there I found that the screw which holds the throttle slide and it's mechanism to the throttle rod was loose. The VM carb rebuild instructions here http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...rb_rebuild.pdf suggest torquing them to a certain spec, and I also set them with blue loctite which I hadn't done when I cleaned and rebuild them before. These instructions also detail the bench synching - nice. Took another 20-25 min of table top rainy day fun.
The rubber boots looked ok, but they were difficult to get off - JIS screws siezed through yrs of dissimilar metals contact and heating/cooling, blah, blah, blah. Impact driver does the trick usually, although I needed a long drift bacause the frame obstructs the hammer swing (solid round bar in this case) Replaced those with locally bought 6 mm stainless alan head screws coated with anti-sieze goop and tourqued to specs... Happy.
Of course the new o rings may have helped as well
I saw no signs of air leaks at the o rings but the old ones were pretty brittle. Not very expensive - and the pay-off is great!
I thought that the fuel ports for the idle may have become clogged but cleaning them would have meant a deeper tear down than I wanted to do, so I saved that for the last possible issue to address and if so would run through the complete cleaning again in alkaline solution in my ultrasonic cleaner, new rubbers and gaskets, money and time... but i'd done all of this just a few years ago.
This was supposed to be a short and sweet report about my current fix...
So summary...
Read. "top 10 Newby mistakes" http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ewbie+mistakes
Do the mandatory obligatory maint suggested.
Plan on wrenching or whining while others ride if you choose to take shortcuts around these.
Be thorough and methodical and patient.
The most shiney bolt head inside the carb in the picture below was the offender. I could have tighened it without removing the carbs, but the slides must be viewed through the intake ports to set them at equal hieghts/depths.
Pics
If you're in So NH and have GS carb trouble I'd love to help.
Short and sweet.
A hanging idle developed slowely and steadily on my 79 GS1000E.
This leaves the engine revving above 2500 RPM when shifting between gears and whenever idling. I could bring the idle down by blipping the throttle very sharply - but I've learned that this is just "tricking the carbs" and is not true idle and does nothing for the shifting while riding.
Idle problem happened to be more pronounced once engine was warmed - sounds like an air leak then right?
Problem is diminished or goes away when engine is put under load but comes back and stays once accelerator is increased.
Idle air screw adjustments did nasty things on the order of confusing me and adding differing symptoms. After the real issues were corrected the suggested ideal range for idle air screws (1 - 1 1/4 turn from gently bottomed out) seems just about right.
After reading multiple times the necc of starting from square one and methodically going through the important points outlined in such gems as Basscliffs site http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/ and others linked there I became convinced that I and my bike are no different than any other GS owner and thier bike, and that half measure just leave me stranded/frusterated.
A hanging idle, I've read, is most commonly caused by a lean condition which is often caused by air leaks into the carb through poorly fitting parts, worn seals or orings, other issues caused by wear or poor maintainance.
The o-rings possibly needing replacement was nagging at my gut, and my mind kept falling back to that as I couldn't remember if I'd actually replaced them when I hurridly threw this thing back together a couple of years ago.
One of my other posts from long ago explains my method of simplest removal of VM carberators for the GS1000 - and it gets easier each time. Total removal time this trip was less than 10 minutes, no swears, no damage, no blood. And I just simply couldn't verify certain things without removing them - so...
Once removed I found that one of the round slides wasn't returning as quickly as the others.
This prompted me to open the top of that (#4) carb, and there I found that the screw which holds the throttle slide and it's mechanism to the throttle rod was loose. The VM carb rebuild instructions here http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...rb_rebuild.pdf suggest torquing them to a certain spec, and I also set them with blue loctite which I hadn't done when I cleaned and rebuild them before. These instructions also detail the bench synching - nice. Took another 20-25 min of table top rainy day fun.
The rubber boots looked ok, but they were difficult to get off - JIS screws siezed through yrs of dissimilar metals contact and heating/cooling, blah, blah, blah. Impact driver does the trick usually, although I needed a long drift bacause the frame obstructs the hammer swing (solid round bar in this case) Replaced those with locally bought 6 mm stainless alan head screws coated with anti-sieze goop and tourqued to specs... Happy.
Of course the new o rings may have helped as well
I saw no signs of air leaks at the o rings but the old ones were pretty brittle. Not very expensive - and the pay-off is great!
I thought that the fuel ports for the idle may have become clogged but cleaning them would have meant a deeper tear down than I wanted to do, so I saved that for the last possible issue to address and if so would run through the complete cleaning again in alkaline solution in my ultrasonic cleaner, new rubbers and gaskets, money and time... but i'd done all of this just a few years ago.
This was supposed to be a short and sweet report about my current fix...
So summary...
Read. "top 10 Newby mistakes" http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ewbie+mistakes
Do the mandatory obligatory maint suggested.
Plan on wrenching or whining while others ride if you choose to take shortcuts around these.
Be thorough and methodical and patient.
The most shiney bolt head inside the carb in the picture below was the offender. I could have tighened it without removing the carbs, but the slides must be viewed through the intake ports to set them at equal hieghts/depths.
Pics
If you're in So NH and have GS carb trouble I'd love to help.
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