Exhaust flange bolts

[Guest]

Dear Forum,

Since I have completed the top overhaul on my G I can't keep the flange bolts torqued. I replaced all of the gaskets, bolts and washers when I put it back together and torqued to 10 ft. lbs. with a little anti seize. Now I need to re-torque around every 600 mi. or so. I can tell when their beginning to loosen up by the ticking noise after a cold stat up.

What's up, any ideas?

Thanks

[Steve]

I know that the manual says "6.5 to 10 lbs-ft.", but other 8mm bolts use torque values ranging from 15 to 19 lbs-ft., so try going just a little bit tighter.

.

[Nessism]

Do you have fresh lock washers on the bolts?

[1980GS1000E]

Change to studs while you still can.

[7981GS]

Change to studs while you still can.

I tap the threads 10 mm's deeper and use grade 12.9 studs with plenty of anti-seize on the studs.
Grade 10.9 nuts.
If either of them is going to strip, it would be the nuts.

Eric

[bbjumper]

Thanks Guys,

Ed, used all new hardware and lock washers when it was re-assembled.

Eric, I agree, should have done that when the head was off. A project for another weekend. You think I should go 10 mm deeper in the head or just chase the threads with a tap?

Thanks

[7981GS]

Thanks Guys,

Ed, used all new hardware and lock washers when it was re-assembled.

Eric, I agree, should have done that when the head was off. A project for another weekend. You think I should go 10 mm deeper in the head or just chase the threads with a tap?

Thanks

Deeper is better. (also true with the ladies. )
More threads to share the load in the soft aluminum.

Eric

[MAJikMARCer]

Going to thread-jack since I'll be replacing my bolts this coming off season. So rather than using bolts, some of you (Eric) add studs with nuts holding the headers on? Can someone post a picture so I'm clear on what you've done.

Why is that method, if I understand it right, better than bolts?

[AJ]

Going to thread-jack since I'll be replacing my bolts this coming off season. So rather than using bolts, some of you (Eric) add studs with nuts holding the headers on? Can someone post a picture so I'm clear on what you've done.

Why is that method, if I understand it right, better than bolts?

The thinking is that you are less likely to strip the threads out of the head when you use studs instead of bolts. 7981GS's post was very good.

That said, I have never stripped an thread in the exhaust port, but I've had more than one stud break off over the years. Anti-seize is your friend. A few drops of Milk of Magnesia on the threads also works quite well. (really!)

I wonder if OP bbjumper's problem was using soft crush-style exhaust gaskets? It would be nice to see a follow-up post on this.

[MisterCinders]

Going to thread-jack since I'll be replacing my bolts this coming off season. So rather than using bolts, some of you (Eric) add studs with nuts holding the headers on? Can someone post a picture so I'm clear on what you've done.

Why is that method, if I understand it right, better than bolts?

Studs are better than bolts because they go in and out of the aluminum block only once, so you don't risk damaging/stripping threads in the head. This is why the oil filter has studs instead of bolts, so you are threading in and out of the case every time you change the filter.

You don't pull the exhaust nearly so often, but it can be helpful to pull pipes once in awhile to access the front of the engine, clean grime, get to the tach cable housing, etc.

Also, once the studs are in place, you have more room to tighten down the headers without worrying about the threads in the block. Every time I tighten my exhaust bolts I feel like Indiana Jones stealing that gold idol, waiting for that one bolt to snap. A few times, that has left me a bit loose on a header, so I have to revisit it and tighten it up more.

[7981GS]

So rather than using bolts, some of you (Eric) add studs with nuts holding the headers on? Can someone post a picture so I'm clear on what you've done.

Why is that method, if I understand it right, better than bolts?

The only pic's that I could find.
The exhaust was not for this bike and was troublesome getting it to cooperate.
(Windjammer fairing is why the hose clamps are there.)






Eric

[MAJikMARCer]

Thanks guys. This helps a bunch. I thought this was what you were talking about but I wasn't sure. I'd rather ask the dumb question than remain ignorant.

Are they pretty easy to install? Do you use thread lock so they stay in place well or is that an issue? How do you tighten them onto the head to start with?

I saw these and thought that their hex ends would make installation easy, but I'm guessing they are a lot more expensive:

[1980GS1000E]

Which set is that? Who sells those?

[caligs]

Thanks guys. This helps a bunch. I thought this was what you were talking about but I wasn't sure. I'd rather ask the dumb question than remain ignorant.

Are they pretty easy to install? Do you use thread lock so they stay in place well or is that an issue? How do you tighten them onto the head to start with?

I saw these and thought that their hex ends would make installation easy, but I'm guessing they are a lot more expensive:

Looks like they have a hex opening at the end,so it should be easy to install them.

[MAJikMARCer]

Which set is that? Who sells those?

They are for a specific application but I'm guessing they could be found for our GSs if we look around hard enough: http://www.kmsperformance.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=23