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Exhaust Removal GS 750

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    Exhaust Removal GS 750

    hi all, im going to remove the exhausts on my bike, im heating the studs with a torch and applying plenty of penetrating oil, going to do this over a few days. is there another method I can use as well, like freeze off, spray, has anyone used it. also could i use a hex key to remove the studs, or do i need a special tool, the outer ones lookeasy to access, but the two middle sets look a bit awkward.
    thanks.
    paul

    #2
    You are doing great by taking your time and soaking the bolts. I suggest a 1/4" ratchet wrench when you go to remove them since that size tend to be small, which will hopefully reduce the tendency to use too much force. Last thing you want to do is hamfist the job and break a bunch of bolts off.

    Good luck
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #3
      thanks for the info, ive used some silicone to plug gap between head and flange and wrapped some cling film around head and flange, so as to keep the penetrating oil around the bolts, this should help with get to threads.

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        #4
        I have good success with heating the part then dousing it with penetrating oil. Repeating the process until the part lets loose. Just be careful to cover up other parts with a welding blanket, remove the fuel tank and have a fire extinguisher handy

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          #5
          I tried heat and PB Blaster on a couple of stuck exhaust bolts over a two day period to no avail. I then tried CRC Freeze-Off.
          I used it according to the directions, spray for 30 seconds, wait 2 minutes, tap with hammer. Still didn't work.
          Took a 10 minute break to cool off, mentally and physically, went out to repeat the process and decided to tap it one more time and try again. Low and behold, they came right out.
          CRC Freeze-Out is not just cold, it is cold and penetrating oil.
          Just remember to put down something to catch the oil as most of it will drip down the front of the engine and don't use too much torque. You DO NOT want to break one.
          Only the two bolts for number 3 were stuck on mine, I guess I got lucky.

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            #6
            all the bolts came out

            just to let you all know that the bolts all came out over a few days of using penetrating oil, when i came to remove them they came out fine, only two bolts were a pain. had to keep the torch on them and more penetrating oil, but they all came out ok. dont know if ill use them again or change to studs. also i want to have the pipes re-chromed, and the flanges, however it looks like they are unable to be removed, unlike the middle two,which came off. dont know yet what it would cost for re-chroming, or if its better to get a good set somewhere else. anyway thanks all for your info.

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              #7
              Swapping the hardware is a good idea especially after using a lot of heat to remove it.

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                #8
                Use anti-seize when reistalling.
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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