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    question on shimming the needle

    I'm trying to shim the needles on my carbs - I just want to make sure I'm replacing the correct washer. I'm guessing I'm supposed to be replacing the plastic one at the top of the needle, not that flat metal washer beneath the little clip. Is that right?



    I'm doing this, by the way, because I just installed a V&H 4 in 1 - I re-jetted, bumping up my main jets to 120 from the stock 115's.

    The bike is running pretty good but not fantastic - it has plenty of pep and lots of power when I'm accelerating. There's no popping on decel.

    The only issue is some weakness when I'm cruising freeway speed. From what I read, shimming the needle may help.

    This is going on my '80 850G
    Last edited by Guest; 06-24-2012, 07:58 PM. Reason: questioned answered

    #2
    Replace the plastic washer with a couple of thin steel washers about 1/2 the height of that plastic washer. You can even sand down the plastic washer with a piece of sandpaper placed on a flat surface. Just make sure all the spacers are the same thickness when you are done.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

    Comment


      #3
      Cool! Thanks!

      Comment


        #4
        Send me a buck and your address and I'll send you 20 shims.
        16 to use and 4 to lose.

        Eric

        Comment


          #5
          message deleted
          Last edited by Guest; 06-24-2012, 09:37 PM.

          Comment


            #6
            What I really need is a decent set of circlip pliers..man, those things are a pain to get out and even harder to get back in!

            I got one done but I've given up for the night and will buy a decent set of pliers tomorrow - something that can reach into the tube where the needle sits.

            Picked up the washers at a radio shack and, as someone else mentioned, the kid didn't know what I was talking about but I found them with their hardware. last pack in the drawer.

            Comment


              #7
              I just cut down a cheapie pair or circlip pliers to get them to fit down into the slides.
              I used a cutting disc on a die grinder, zipped the flairs off the pliers where they were joined, and made the pins in the end smaller to fit into the holes at each end in the circlips.
              I also ground out between the pins as the pliers wouldn't close far enough to remove the clips.
              I got the pliers free as they were left in my garage when I got the place, so all in all, my new CV carb circlip pliers were free.


              Tank

              Comment


                #8
                You don't need to put the circlips back in when you are done. And I don't understand the idea of sanding the plastic washer. The idea is to raise the needle so to do that you would add a few small washers under the existing plastic washer. Just make sure that the needle when placed in the slide has no vertical play when the plastic spring seat is positiioned in the slide. You don't need to replace the circlips because the spring bears down on the seat which retains the needle.
                NO PIC THANKS TO FOTO BUCKET FOR BEING RIDICULOUS

                Current Rides: 1980 Suzuki GS1000ET, 2009 Yamaha FZ1, 1983 Honda CB1100F, 2006 H-D Fatboy
                Previous Rides: 1972 Yamaha DS7, 1977 Yamaha RD400D, '79 RD400F Daytona Special, '82 RD350LC, 1980 Suzuki GS1000E (sold that one), 1982 Honda CB900F, 1984 Kawasaki GPZ900R

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by 1980GS1000E View Post
                  You don't need to put the circlips back in when you are done. And I don't understand the idea of sanding the plastic washer. The idea is to raise the needle so to do that you would add a few small washers under the existing plastic washer. Just make sure that the needle when placed in the slide has no vertical play when the plastic spring seat is positiioned in the slide. You don't need to replace the circlips because the spring bears down on the seat which retains the needle.

                  Obviously there is some confusion here.

                  The needle height is controlled by the height of the orange plastic washer above the small circlip on the needle, because a spring pushes up on the needle from underneath. Make the washer/spacer thinner and the needle height will increase.

                  The circlip being mentioned by others is the one in the slide that holds the plastic plug piece in place. That circlip is critical otherwise the needle will just fall out.

                  Last edited by Nessism; 06-25-2012, 12:37 AM.
                  Ed

                  To measure is to know.

                  Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                  Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                  Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                  KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                  Comment


                    #10
                    These are rough measurements as a micrometer will tell slightly different measurements:

                    The plastic stock spacer measures 2.50 mm's.
                    The 3 mm flat washers measure .50 mm's.
                    So, if you replace the plastic spacer with (4) 3 mm flat washers, you have raised the needle .50 mm.
                    Etc.


                    Eric

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Ok so thinner washer equals raising the needle. Right?
                      My plastic washer did measure 2.50
                      The little metal washers were just over. 50 each
                      I wasn't sure how high to raise the needle. I was going to replace the plastic washer with two metal washers. Now I'm thinking that might raise the needle more than i need.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        @Nessism- I forgot that when I raised my needles I took out the small springs. I then stacked a bunch of washers, some above and some below, around the fixed lug on the needle. When I reassembled, since there was no small spring pushing up on the plastic seat, I just omitted the circlips. My old 900 Ninja used the same principle to hold the needles in. It works fine. Perhaps the plastic plug is different on the 850, but on mine, the diaphragm spring bears against it and that holds the needle in place.
                        Last edited by 1980GS1000E; 06-25-2012, 01:23 PM.
                        NO PIC THANKS TO FOTO BUCKET FOR BEING RIDICULOUS

                        Current Rides: 1980 Suzuki GS1000ET, 2009 Yamaha FZ1, 1983 Honda CB1100F, 2006 H-D Fatboy
                        Previous Rides: 1972 Yamaha DS7, 1977 Yamaha RD400D, '79 RD400F Daytona Special, '82 RD350LC, 1980 Suzuki GS1000E (sold that one), 1982 Honda CB900F, 1984 Kawasaki GPZ900R

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by 1980GS1000E View Post
                          @Nessism- I forgot that when I raised my needles I took out the small springs. I then stacked a bunch of washers, some above and some below, around the fixed lug on the needle. When I reassembled, since there was no small spring pushing up on the plastic seat, I just omitted the circlips. My old 900 Ninja used the same principle to hold the needles in. It works fine.

                          Doesn't that add a ton of weight and make it much harder for the slide to rise?


                          Eric

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by 1980GS1000E View Post
                            @Nessism- I forgot that when I raised my needles I took out the small springs. I then stacked a bunch of washers, some above and some below, around the fixed lug on the needle. When I reassembled, since there was no small spring pushing up on the plastic seat, I just omitted the circlips. My old 900 Ninja used the same principle to hold the needles in. It works fine. Perhaps the plastic plug is different on the 850, but on mine, the diaphragm spring bears against it and that holds the needle in place.
                            I guess this would work, but I'd be concerned about anything that "locks" the needle in place. I believe the purpose of the spring is to press the needle to the top - setting the needle height - while letting the needle "float" so it centers in the bore of the main jet. This float prevents any binding that could cause the slide to hang up and keeps the needle from rubbing too hard on the walls of the main jet, wearing out the soft brass.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Craftsman needle nose pliers # 45664 work for me {black & gold}. I pull the needle down from the bottom against the little spring and grab it with vice grips then put the circlip in with the pliers which fit the holes perfect. I dont know about leaving the circlip out, youre on your own there

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