81 550t carb prob.

[gsrick]

I cleaned a set of carbs for a 550t and I'm having idle problems. Soaked and cleaned the carbs, but didn't over night them like I normally do. I normally use Gunk brand and this time I got Berryman's Chem-dip. Can says no more than 4 hours. Since these are not my carbs I actually followed manufactures directions for once. Sprayed all passages, blew air through also. New orings and intake o"s also. Idle screws 2 out and bench synced. Can't get an idle to stay put and if I let it cut out its a beotch to restart. Stock airbox and 4-1 V&H. PS there were no tiny orings and washers for idle screws. I added them when I reasembled the carbs. What do you think.

Rick

[cowboyup3371]

Dip them the full 24 hours first off. Secondly, what size jets are in there?

[Nessism]

Dip them the full 24 hours first off. Secondly, what size jets are in there?

Scott, there is no need for 24 hours if they are clean in 4. I judge by how well the sauce is doing.

3 turns out is better than 2 for the mixture screws. You may have to increase the main jet size, and shim the needle, for the pipe.

I'd try a vacuum sync and set the idle speed up some.

Also, if you didn't replace the intake boot O-rings now would be a good time to do so.

[cowboyup3371]

Yea you're right but I left mine in for double what he had when re-cleaning them back this winter. They were already pretty well off but made sure.

[gsrick]

Normally I do an over night on the soaking, but I used a different brand so I didn't want to open a can of melted carb body. After soaking I used a small straight pin to clear all the smll holes and some welding wire through the passages and it all seemed to flow the spray out strong. It has 92.5 mains and I couldn't get the pilots out so instead of damageing them, I just made sure a wire would pass through them. I replaced the intake orings and all the carbs O's from Robert Barr. The only thing I can ad is there are no clamps on the airbox to carb boots, but they seem pretty snug and the filter was replaced before me, with a foam element. I know it was a pain in the azz to get the carbs in between the engine and box. Now I see what everybody has been talking about. All my bikes have pods and the 850 G I'm working on you can remove the box with the carbs on. The guy wanted to go with pods, but I talked him out of it since there are so many here against doing so. I even got a box for my 78 1000, but I'm not to sure about putting it on now. I'll try the three out and see what happens. What about the starting problem once it warms up. Same problem or different. Note: it has a new battery, but the stator isn't charging. I have a charger so it is full when I'm testing. I can't sync the carbs till I get an idle, I did bench sync them using a small straight pin, so they should be close enough. The pin worked for other 32 and 34mm cv carb set I've done before. I'm wondering if I need so soak again. not looking to deal with that limited space again. Has anybody removed the engine mount bolts to get more clearence for the carbs? Even just a 1/2 inch of space would be heaven.

[cowboyup3371]

Unlatch the rear fender, slide the airbox as far back as you can go, and then pull the carbs. It's tough but I am down to about 3 minutes to get them out. Course I'm having problems getting the number one air box boot to seat right but getting them back in is only taking me about 5 minutes.

I found too that if you strap the front wheel to the centerstand you can push them back into the intake boots fairly easily without rocking the bike forward.

[gsrick]

Great tip on the airbox, but four turns out seems to have me in the ballpark. Idleing alot better and I can restart it after shutting it off, so I'm hopeing I don't have to try your tip out. Definately worth passing along, this bike has been tough on reinstalling the carbs. Thanks for the help guys.