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Idle mixture screw problems

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    #16
    Ah...I have been using a heat gun, I will try using a propane torch - thought that might be overkill, but may be the key!

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      #17
      Originally posted by spwalker09 View Post
      Ah...I have been using a heat gun, I will try using a propane torch - thought that might be overkill, but may be the key!
      Heat guns don't have enough oomph...

      A plumbers torch is handy to have for these types of things. Just be prepared to put out any fires you may start... I keep a fire extingusher (or bucket of water) close by when I'm using mine. Course, I'm a klutz...

      Put the carb in a vise & locally heat the body section up adjacent to the screw, not the screw itself. Make sure you get it good & hot - aluminum doesn't turn red as it gets hot so don't wait for that . Remove the heat & quickly (while it's hot) try to turn the screw head.

      Be patient, it may require several rounds of PB & heat.
      '85 GS550L - SOLD
      '85 GS550E - SOLD
      '82 GS650GL - SOLD
      '81 GS750L - SOLD
      '82 GS850GL - trusty steed
      '80 GS1100L - son's project bike
      '82 GS1100G - SOLD
      '81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)

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        #18
        Had some time late last week to get to it...

        The screw can turn clockwise w/ heat, but stops at the point it has been, and looks like the threads might be a bit boogered around there so I think that's the smoking gun.

        Saying WTH...I put the carbs on the bike and she fired up and idled fine. I think I'm close enough, but once I get the brake lines hooked back up I can take it for a spin to see what tuning lies ahead. I suppose if its gonna be an issue, we can chase the threads above the screw, or wait until I tear down the carbs in the winter and give them a through once-over.

        Thanks again for your help! (for now lol...)

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          #19
          Originally posted by hikermikem View Post
          As I stated before, if you need to re-tap that hole I have that tap.
          HiJack:
          What size is the tap? I ended up using a left-handed drill bit to get one of mine out successfully, but would like to clean up the threads before I attempt to put the new part in there.

          Thanks!

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            #20
            Just for reference, hikermikem confirmed that the tap size is m6x0.5.

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              #21
              Looks like the same problem I had while cleaning a customers carbs. I used my impact driver. Gently tapping on the driver slowly backed the screw out. I had tried every other method known to man, I'm sure. All I can say is "it worked".

              It's worth a try.
              80 gs1100 16-v ported & polished, 1 mm oversize intake valves, 1150 carbs w/Dynojet stage 3, plus Bandit/gsxr upgrades

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                #22
                I tried the impact driver on mine, but it was stuck so bad that I started worrying that I would break the casting of the carb body from hitting the driver so hard. I did have it supported on a couple blocks of wood to evenly take the stress. Good luck!

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