Rebuilt carbs but no start

[JLG]

Hi,

Ok, I think I'm in the right spot!

Thanks again for the welcome and suggestions to my problem(s).

Here's some more information on the carbs. I took them apart except for the butterfly. I used a parts bin at work to do the initial cleaning then blew them out with compressed air. Then dipped them in Berryman's to clean them again. Again used compressed air and q-tips as well. All the O-rings were new, from cycleorings and from the carb kits.

Should I have left the original main jets in them since I couldn't read what size they were?

I'll pull the carbs off when I get home tonight and recheck the float height and change the main jets back. Should I back the pilot screw(?) out another 1/4 turn or so?

Air filters are K&N.

No inline fuel filter, but will get some new vacuum line when I get home.

I haven't tried to synch them yet but have gauges to do that once I get it to start and run on it's own.

[spyug]

Then dipped them in Berryman's to clean them again. Again used compressed air and q-tips as well

How long were they in the soup? You did dunk all the jets and emulsion tubes as well?

Why did you change the jets? Was there something wrong with the originals? If not I'd say dunk them too and reinstall them.

The air mixture screws ( you call them pilot) should be 2.5 turns out from seated for starters but will be adjusted for highest idle method when you are synching them.

For a bench synch prior to starting, the butterflies should be open about the width of a paper clip by using the idle knob to adjust. No point in trying to synch things fully until you get them to run and at least idle without enricher ( i.e.choke) or feathering the throttle. In fact, the bike should always start and idle without any application of throttle.

Now speaking about the air filters, did they come with the bike or did you install them? I'm reading that they are pods? If they are pods, they could be contributing to your issues as they often make carb tuning very difficult since they are not overly restrictive to air. These carbs are designed to work with some degree of air resistance and it is why stock airboxes (properly sealed) are most often advised. You may need to fiddle with these by partially blocking them off (wrap tape around them) to get the right flow of air.

If it were me, I think I'd try and get it running properly with a stock airbox first ( assuming you have one) as you can be chasing your tail trying to sort out jets and pod filters.

As I mentioned before, starting and running is not all down to carbs alone and you should definitely insure your valves are adjusted and you have good spark. Very often, due to deteriorating wiring spark can be off as the voltage at the coils is down from the amount available from the battery. A drop of 1 volt or more can occur causing spark to be off by several thousand volts, making for insipid spark. The coil relay modification is recommended' in that case' but for now you should make sure you have good clean connections in your wiring harnes from battery, through the fuse box, the right hand control unit and at the coils.

Sorry to read you the facts of GS life but if you want to get running you may need to consider each of these things.

Good luck with it.

Spyug

[JLG]

Got it to run on it's own

Spyug, I checked the floats again, changed the 190 jets to 180 (that's what was in it), turned the pilot jet out 2 1/2 turns. I put them back on and after making sure there was gas in the float bowls and everything tightened up I cranked it over and it started right up.

I still have to do more adjustments on it and I'll add some tape for restriction but I'm happy to have it running!

I'd like to thank everyone for their help and advice! You ROCK!!

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Don't forget.... New Members, CLICK HERE!!

(Saves me some typing, cutting, and pasting.)

You'll find guides on the proper way to clean carbs. Did you buy a Dynojet Stage 3 kit?


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff