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And look what I found.......

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    And look what I found.......

    In part 2 of http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=196841, I suspected I had crud in the carbs again as the tank does show some surface rust. I was hoping it wasn't going to be a big issue as I plan on coating it over the winter but I guess I can't escape it. I pulled them and got them in the dunk tank after finding this:

    And this:

    For all you newbs that is tank rust and what clogs up all the little holes in the jets and passages. The only way to get it gone is to dunk it in carb dip and that's where they will be for the next 24 hours.

    So the moral of this story is a) if the tank looks mildly rusty, it will become a problem b) the petcock filter can't stop it flowing on and c) adding an inline filter won't help either and only gives a false sense of security. I should likely add d) there are no shortcuts when dealing with keeping the fuel system clean and healthy. Deal with it or suffer the consequences

    So in the next day or so I'll be cleaning and sealing a tank I guess and once again, not riding.

    Spyug
    Last edited by Guest; 07-18-2012, 07:55 PM.

    #2
    Out of curioisty do you attempt to reuse your orings when soaking or just buy/keep new ones for when needed..

    Comment


      #3
      You don't need carb dip to get rid of rust. Just use carb spray and clean the passages.

      Cleaning the tank is another matter though. Evaporust is the easiest, but not cheapest, way to fix it.
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Nessism View Post
        You don't need carb dip to get rid of rust. Just use carb spray and clean the passages.

        Cleaning the tank is another matter though. Evaporust is the easiest, but not cheapest, way to fix it.

        Try Acid Magic; works great and it is cheap. I fileld a gas tank with one gallon and 4:1 mix

        Acid Magic is a full strength muriatic-based product formulated to ship, use and store easier than standard muriatic acid. This revolutionary blend of proprietary ingredients offers the cleaning and pH reduction of powerful acids while providing increased usability.Find the ACID MAGIC MUR ACID GAL at Ace.
        Last edited by posplayr; 07-18-2012, 08:59 PM.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by posplayr View Post
          Try Acid Magic; works great and it is cheap. I fileld a gas tank with one gallon and 4:1 mix

          http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...39&cagpspn=pla
          Muratic acid. Good stuff, but strong. Use good tank plugs and don't get it on the paint.

          Phosphoric acid is safer, but not as safe as Evaporust.

          It all comes down to cost, time, and safety risk.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

          Comment


            #6
            Glad you were able to find the source of your troubles.....

            Comment


              #7
              Out of curioisty do you attempt to reuse your orings when soaking or just buy/keep new ones for when needed..
              That depends. Anything up to a year I will likely reuse them as long as they check out. If you gently pull on them to distort you can tell if they are starting to crack or split. It helps to use a magnifier to get a better look.

              In the case of this particular set they should be good to go as I only changed them out about a month or so back.

              Glad you were able to find the source of your troubles.....
              Thanks. I actually had suspected this might happen as I could see surface rust in the tank and put an inline filter in the gas line to try and ward off any crap getting through. As soon as it started to act crappy I knew. It does kind of p me off as I just want to ride and not have to do anymore wrenching this season. Now I'll have to prep the tank and order up a sealer kit so I'll be unable to ride for another week or so. Major bummer let me tell you.

              Spyug

              Comment


                #8
                You will be riding, the same time I will be.....I think...

                but I might be right behind you on the tank coating as well, and I should have done it before paint, but I did see some light rusting in mine as well, seemed very light, but could cause me issues as well, I hope not....

                Comment


                  #9
                  I think if the rust is light, you could try just cleaning the tank with one of the products suggested or even white vinegar. The hard part is getting the residue out, I find. The acid washes it off but with the way the tanks are built its hard to pour everything out and there is always gunk that stays in the nooks and crannies.

                  Once you pour out all you can, take a wire coat hanger and attach some shop towel to the end of it and poke it in and around to try and wipe up some of the junk. The other thing that sometimes helps is to stick a vacuum cleaner hose in the filler hole and using a compressor (see I told you you would need one) shoot air in via the petcock hole. You won't get it all but it will help a lot.

                  At the moment I am trying to locate a sealer kit locally but the stuff I really want is from Caswell Plating and they are in Port Perry, ont 2 hours away. I may drive down to get it as I can't wait a week for shipping.

                  Cheers,
                  Spyug

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I've used vinegar on a fuel tank and it works well. Just be ready with the WD-40 when you rinse the tank out, it will flash rust before your eyes. I know, I had to do it twice.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Thanks for the tip......

                      I will see what it is like, and try the simple vinegar solution first...I don't think it's bad, but I do know I saw some in there...

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by spyug View Post
                        That depends. Anything up to a year I will likely reuse them as long as they check out. If you gently pull on them to distort you can tell if they are starting to crack or split. It helps to use a magnifier to get a better look.

                        In the case of this particular set they should be good to go as I only changed them out about a month or so back.


                        Thanks. I actually had suspected this might happen as I could see surface rust in the tank and put an inline filter in the gas line to try and ward off any crap getting through. As soon as it started to act crappy I knew. It does kind of p me off as I just want to ride and not have to do anymore wrenching this season. Now I'll have to prep the tank and order up a sealer kit so I'll be unable to ride for another week or so. Major bummer let me tell you.

                        Spyug
                        If you use electrolysis instead of acids there is no tendency for the tank to rust again, you will not need to coat the tank afterwards, unless you plan on leaving the tank half empty for months in a humid place. It takes a little more work but the results are worth it.
                        http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                        Life is too short to ride an L.

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