Runs great in neutral, bogs in gear.

[Ryanjm]

I have a 1980 GS550L. I just tuned it up (ie. new spark plugs, air filters, oil change, cleaned carbs). The bike starts a little hard but not to bad. When it's warming up the idle is slighty inconsistent jumping up then lowering. Once warm it runs smoother and revs up fine but when I drop it into first and try to take of it bogs down and almost dies at 4000rpm, if I shift to second it wont go past 3000rpm, and gets worse through the gears(I have not had it out of third). It runs better if I keep the choke on. I was thinking that this could possibly be that the bike is running to lean. I am really stuck here. Any idea's?

[Riding Again]

Unfortunately, you need to pull the carbs and check for a stuck needle valve or an improperly placed diaphragm.

I had both of those and experienced something similar, but regardless you'll need to double check your assembly work.

[jwhelan65]

Sounds like a vaccum leak

[Steve]

You said you changed the air filters (yes, I noted the plural), indicating that it is running pods?

Were the carbs re-jetted for the pods?

If you didn't do the work or actually watch it get done, assume it wasn't done. Pull the carbs and verify the jetting.

While you have the carbs off, make double-sure the float heights are good.

You say you "cleaned the carbs". How? A quick spray or a proper "strip and dip", followed by new o-rings?

.

[Ryanjm]

The jetting was not redone. I bought the bike with no air box so I put pods on. I cleaned the carbs by taking them apart and soaking the jets and bowls. Blew them out with a compressor also. I am not sure how to test float height.

[sliver9]

Its definitely caused by not having the proper jetting done. I had pods on my bike and didn't do any jetting and it had the exact same issue. I put the stock air box back on and it made it run perfect. Amazing how much better it ran. I'd try to get a stock air box for it, unless you want to mess around with jetting and shimming the needle, etc.

[platinum2]

sounds like its getting to much air, what do the plugs look like?
im betting bigger pilot and main jets would fix it

[rapidray]

You will need a jet kit, which includes ADJUSTABLE NEEDLES, to make your bike run correctly with pod filters. Ray.

[Steve]

The jetting was not redone. I bought the bike with no air box so I put pods on. I cleaned the carbs by taking them apart and soaking the jets and bowls. Blew them out with a compressor also. I am not sure how to test float height.

OK.

1. The jetting needs to be re-done. Not sure if Dynojet makes a kit for that bike, but it's worth the money if they do. (About $100 or so.)
2. The jets and bowls are good, but what about all the little passages in the BODY of the carb that carry the fuel from the jets and the bowl into the airstream? There is a full tutorial on BassCliff's site showing you how to properly clean and rehab your carbs.
3. Float height is also very important to proper operation of your carbs. Bookmark BassCliff's site, you will be referring to it OFTEN.

.

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. Ryanjm,

Properly cleaned carbs, valve adjustment, air intake repair, re-jet if you're going to keep the pod filters, etc. Do ALL the regular maintenance properly. See the maintenance lists here ... New Members, CLICK HERE!!

You'll find lots of information in the links provided in the "mega-welcome", tutorials, tips, guides, manuals, etc. Welcome to the forum.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Ryanjm]

I dont have the stock air box. I bought it with it off the bike. the bike had no filters when it came. I also have a 1983 Honda cb1100f that I took the stock air box out of and put the exact same pods on that I put on the gs. My CB runs just like it did before without me rejetting it. I find it hard to believe that this would be the issue. I have a friend that did the same thing to his gs1000 without rejetting and his bike runs fine. I think there is a different issue at hand here. I am going to pull the carbs and check them over carefully, especially float height and the diaphragm, then post the results.

[MisterCinders]

I dont have the stock air box. I bought it with it off the bike. the bike had no filters when it came. I also have a 1983 Honda cb1100f that I took the stock air box out of and put the exact same pods on that I put on the gs. My CB runs just like it did before without me rejetting it. I find it hard to believe that this would be the issue. I have a friend that did the same thing to his gs1000 without rejetting and his bike runs fine. I think there is a different issue at hand here. I am going to pull the carbs and check them over carefully, especially float height and the diaphragm, then post the results.

Only about a zillion of us on the forums have done the pods and rejetting dance, but your buddy's gs1k and your CB1100 reveal the folly of those efforts. Boy, do we feel dumb.

When you get done hunting for snipes, check back for tips on how you will need to re-jet for the extra airflow those pods will give you.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

I dont have the stock air box. I bought it with it off the bike. the bike had no filters when it came. I also have a 1983 Honda cb1100f that I took the stock air box out of and put the exact same pods on that I put on the gs. My CB runs just like it did before without me rejetting it. I find it hard to believe that this would be the issue. I have a friend that did the same thing to his gs1000 without rejetting and his bike runs fine. I think there is a different issue at hand here. I am going to pull the carbs and check them over carefully, especially float height and the diaphragm, then post the results.

Feel free to disregard all of the advice from all of the people who have been working on these bikes (some professionally) for decades. Let us know how it turns out.

Stock jetting + increased airflow = lean air/fuel mixture. A lean engine will run great for a while. But a lean engine runs hotter and will fry valves and other important parts. Please don't learn this lesson the hard way. Properly clean the carbs, adjust the valves, and do all the other required maintenance to make sure your bike is safe and reliable. See my previous link for all the information to get you started in the right direction.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Ryanjm]

Today I took apart the carbs again. I found that I had not cleaned taken out the floats and cleaned cleaned behind the needles. The screens that are on the needle inlet were clogged. I put everything back together and it ran better. It would go through all the gears put still would pull through the RPM's right. So to test the pods being the problem I filled the pods with air filter foam to restrict airflow. The bike even better but still not 100%. So now I am debating over finding a stock airbox for the bike or rejetting. How hard would it be to rejet the bike? Would it be worth it?

[Steve]

How hard is it? Let's just say that you just went through just about all the same motions, but without changing the jets.

It's not really all that hard to change them, it's just that you don't really know which jets to get. That might have to be done by trial and error, which can get expensive if you don't guess closely enough and have to keep buying more jets. Your best bet, if it's available, is a Dynojet kit. I don't know if there is one for your bike, but get it if it's there. The DJ kit is not cheap, but it has the advantage of differently-shaped needles that are adjustable, as well as different mains and maybe air jets.

Is it worth it? You will have to be the one to decide that one. The 550 is a decent bike. Improperly-jetted, it will still get you around town quite nicely, and even get you down the road. Properly jetted, though, it's a screamer, and you will wonder why you waited to do it.

.