1981 GS1100E Idles ok. Turn throttle instant death.

[c&c]

I had seen the Carbtune Pro. I thought it was more expensive.
That is what I will order.

Allright....
I just orderd my O-rings from cycleorings.com.

I will be ordering the following:
-Morgan Carbtune
-Morgan Colortune. 12mm. Get the 14mm colortune plug with a 12mm adapter. 14mm in a 12mm, yes it`s not logical.
-Dyna 2000 Kit : DDK3-2C* WITH 2.2 ohm COILS & FREE DW600 Wire Set http://www.dynoman.net
-Ballistic EVO2 8-Cell Lithium Battery Suzuki GS1100
-Valve cover gasket. http://www.realgaskets.com/ I got a new OEM one with the bike,.
-Oil Filter : http://www.schnitzracingstore.com/ca...showprevnext=1
-Cylinder Compression Tester
-PetCock


To Do:
- Check the stator again but It should be good since I checked it when I picked it up and it was charging.
- Cean AirPods and oil very lightly.
- Valve adjustment. This scare me since I do not know if how I do it is ok.
- After 15 min of idling some wires started to smoke. Find and Fix bad wires.
- There is a ground from the battery to the crank case. It gets hot. Maybe should be changed with a heavier gauge.

[mrbill5491]

Me for one, I would go back to the stock air box system. Just my opinion.

[c&c]

Got my carb dismantled. Diped the bodies in pinesol except for the brass. I used what I had on hand which was seafoam.
Bought all new o-rings.

I found 2 plugged pilot jets, the holes at the tip and 1 petrified jet plug, one crushed Piolet screw o-ring.

I have a stock motor except for the air filter pods.

The previous owner bought a Main jet kit, it is a Dynojet Stage 1-3 Jet Kit, and swapped the 107.5's for 138's

Are those the correct jets for my setup?

I also have the Dyna 2000 kit and 4 into 1 pipes.

The spark plugs have a nice black carbon coating. I guess it's normal since it was not properly tuned.

I also adjusted the valves but should I have found the TTDC then using the notches in the cam shafts for TDC before adjusting the valves?

[c&c]

Update.

Rebuilt the carb new o-rings and all is perfect except 1 thing,
The choke does not open all the way I have to pull on it , about 5mm, and it starts better.

Can any one upload a pic of the choke linkage on their carb?

Or a solution.

Thank you.

[c&c]

Figured out how to fix the carb issue. I'll have to bend the the 4 u-forks to the right and make sure they move all chokes at the same time. It will be just enough.

Cold starts:
With the idle screw unscrewed completely and the choke open it still does not get enough gas. It just keeps burping.

I have my screws at ~1.5 turns. How low can I go before having to change jets?
I wonder if it really does not matter since once warm I'll be using the colour tune to get a perfect burn thus what ever the number of turns that's what will be available when choke is open.
I also read to adjust the mixture between 2000 and 2500 rpm. Apparently that is the range mostly used.

I have the Dynojet Stage 1-3 Jet Kit. Swapped the 107.5's for 138's as instructed to in the install instructions.

[Donaldderby]

C&c i hadn't seen where you mentioned your manifolds. I had the same problem and just replaced my manifolds and o rings $140 and now the bike starts cold no problem. Just something to check

[Steve]

I have my screws at ~1.5 turns. How low can I go before having to change jets?

It's not a matter of "how low can I go", it should be "where should I set them?" For cold starting the first time, set them at three turns out. After the bike is warmed up, use the Colortune on them, but good luck. Some of us have not had good luck with the Colortune on the BS-series carbs. We have seen the blue flame start to sputter a bit, then go out, but never change color.

Using other methods of mixture tuning, you may find that your screws may end up about 2 to 2 1/2 turns out, but I feel that 1.5 turns is not enough. It is much easier to start the engine with them too rich, it acts a little like a choke to richen the mixture for the cold start.

I also read to adjust the mixture between 2000 and 2500 rpm. Apparently that is the range mostly used.

Actually, there is not a whole lot of running in that range. Besides, the mixture does not depend on engine speed, it depends on throttle opening. The throttle opening necessary to maintain 2500 RPM in fifth gear on the highway is going to be larger than the opening necessary to maintain the same engine speed in neutral on the centerstand.

.

[c&c]

C&c i hadn't seen where you mentioned your manifolds. I had the same problem and just replaced my manifolds and o rings $140 and now the bike starts cold no problem. Just something to check

The short rubber tube that connects and holds the carbs?
My modle does not have o-rings and they are almost new, there are no cracks.
I made sure they are in good condition.

[c&c]

It's not a matter of "how low can I go", it should be "where should I set them?" For cold starting the first time, set them at three turns out. After the bike is warmed up, use the Colortune on them, but good luck. Some of us have not had good luck with the Colortune on the BS-series carbs. We have seen the blue flame start to sputter a bit, then go out, but never change color.

Using other methods of mixture tuning, you may find that your screws may end up about 2 to 2 1/2 turns out, but I feel that 1.5 turns is not enough. It is much easier to start the engine with them too rich, it acts a little like a choke to richen the mixture for the cold start.

Actually, there is not a whole lot of running in that range. Besides, the mixture does not depend on engine speed, it depends on throttle opening. The throttle opening necessary to maintain 2500 RPM in fifth gear on the highway is going to be larger than the opening necessary to maintain the same engine speed in neutral on the centerstand.
.

I thought turn left for rich and right for lean? It's the other way
Damn no wonder nothing works, cold starts are hell and from the get go it keeps burping like a carbonated addict!

That would also explain why the colourtune colour change was nonexistent was always pale blue almost white.

I'll be adjusting them tomorrow night.

I'll report back.

[c&c]

Well the tomorrow night turned into a couple of days.

I turned the idle screw right 3x360 turns.
With choke on and bike on the side stand. Startes then dies. At least now it starts. When I sit on it and put it level then start it it turns with more intensity then dies. Now with the front break on I start jerking the front suspension up and down to get the float bowls moving to allow more fule in the bowls. Push the start button it starts , revs high then back down to about 900rpm and stays there just bearly alive. I start jerking it agan and it revs up to 2000rpm.

So please correct me if I'm wrong but there is just not enough gas in the float bols. they are jetted using the recommended jets, DJ138s and the float bowl are set to the recommended hight and I did a level test with transparent tubs and they are at the same level.

I think I will play with the float hight and get more gas in them. Ill add 2.5mm

The carb is squeaky clean and the gas needle plugs are in excellent condition.
Petcock is new and no problems what so ever when in prime.

Am I missing something or this is the correct route to take?

Thank you

[c&c]

I fixed the cold start issue.

I lowered the floats 2mm ( when carbs are upside down ).
I had not installed the choke leaver on the carb correctly. Fixed that.
Had the pilot screws turned out 3 turns which is to lean.
With choke on it starts up almost instantly. YEA BABY!

Not to self turn the air screw in for rich and out for lean.
Not the other way like I thought in my last post.

Tried to colour tune it but never got it yellow or pale blue. I'll try again tomorrow night. If it does not work I will thy the Idle Drop method.

Verdict
There was not enough gas in the float bowls thats why it would startup and die just after and when I finally got it running it would burp like crazy in the first quarter, under load, and would pull very strong when the jet needle would go up which is above the quarter turn.

I'm taking her for a ride tomorrow. Forecast is sunny with a max of 10 degrees Celsius. BRrrrrrr!

[tkent02]

Not to self turn the air screw in for rich and out for lean.
Not the other way like I thought in my last post.

This is incorrect. The mixture screw turned farther out gives a richer mixture.

[Nessism]

I fixed the cold start issue.

I lowered the floats 2mm ( when carbs are upside down ).
I had not installed the choke leaver on the carb correctly. Fixed that.
Had the pilot screws turned out 3 turns which is to lean.
With choke on it starts up almost instantly. YEA BABY!

Not to self turn the air screw in for rich and out for lean.
Not the other way like I thought in my last post.

Tried to colour tune it but never got it yellow or pale blue. I'll try again tomorrow night. If it does not work I will thy the Idle Drop method.

Verdict
There was not enough gas in the float bowls thats why it would startup and die just after and when I finally got it running it would burp like crazy in the first quarter, under load, and would pull very strong when the jet needle would go up which is above the quarter turn.

I'm taking her for a ride tomorrow. Forecast is sunny with a max of 10 degrees Celsius. BRrrrrrr!

This is incorrect. The mixture screw turned farther out gives a richer mixture.

Agree. And you don't set floats by randomly setting the height, you adjust the height until it's within the factory specification range. Carb rebuild tutorial linked in my signature.

[Steve]

I turned the idle screw right 3x360 turns.

Hopefully you are talking about the idle SPEED knob that is below the carbs, between #2 and #3.

So please correct me if I'm wrong but there is just not enough gas in the float bols. they are jetted using the recommended jets, DJ138s and the float bowl are set to the recommended hight and I did a level test with transparent tubs and they are at the same level.

I think I will play with the float hight and get more gas in them. Ill add 2.5mm

Jetting will not affect the amount of gas in the carbs.

If you have the proper float height that is verified by a transparent tube, why do you want to "play with it"? It's already the correct level, something else must be the problem.

The carb is squeaky clean and the gas needle plugs are in excellent condition.

It does not matter how noisy they are ("squeaky" clean), what matters is whether they really ARE clean. I saw in post #18 that you dipped the bodies in Pinesol. I have never used it, so I don't know how well it works. Any particular reason you did not get the stuff that we KNOW will work? I know you said you used what you had on hand, but come on, for $20 or so to get the proper stuff, you might not be having all this aggravation now. By the way, when you dipped the carbs, how long did you leave the carbs in the Pinesol?

I lowered the floats 2mm ( when carbs are upside down ).

What you really mean is "I applied a Band-Aid to the system by messing up the proper fuel level."

Had the pilot screws turned out 3 turns which is to lean.
With choke on it starts up almost instantly. YEA BABY!

Not to self turn the air screw in for rich and out for lean.
Not the other way like I thought in my last post.

What you are calling "pilot screws" are "idle MIXTURE adjustment screws". They control the amount of a pre-set MIXTURE that is admitted to the engine. Turning them OUT from a lightly-seated position will RICHEN the mixture, not lean it out.

Using the "choke" is normal to start a cold engine.

Tried to colour tune it but never got it yellow or pale blue. I'll try again tomorrow night. If it does not work I will thy the Idle Drop method.

I mentioned that possibility back in post #22. That does not mean that something is not working right, just shows that the Colortune is not the perfect tool in all situations.

Verdict
There was not enough gas in the float bowls thats why it would startup and die just after and when I finally got it running it would burp like crazy in the first quarter, under load, and would pull very strong when the jet needle would go up which is above the quarter turn.

I would suspect that your verdict is not quite correct. Because of your questionable cleaning fluid (Pinesol), my personal opinion is that your pilot mixture passages are STILL clogged up with gunk. Raising the float level 2mm above the recommended level merely enabled the needle circuit to kick in a bit earlier (becaue it's running richer), making you think that your problem is solved.

.

[c&c]

Ok I got your hints... I'm a noob

I'll go back and recheck everything.