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    #16
    Originally posted by haztoys View Post
    Then set the float a little lower then Suzuki spec calls for ...
    Or not.

    Why second guess Suzuki?
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #17
      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
      Or not.

      Why second guess Suzuki?
      To each their own ....I guess...Shocking how on a forum someone who does this sort of think to pay the bills and decades doing it ..Not just three carb sets a year as a hobby .. Input has no weight...

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        #18
        Then you might want to explain why your years of experience (that no one here knows about) supersedes the factory manual when it is known to have the correct information that works.
        '78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

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          #19
          Originally posted by Nessism View Post
          Or not.

          Why second guess Suzuki?
          Originally posted by haztoys View Post
          To each their own ....I guess...Shocking how on a forum someone who does this sort of think to pay the bills and decades doing it ..Not just three carb sets a year as a hobby .. Input has no weight...

          Yes, explain why. Teach us what all those years of wrenching has taught you.

          Setting the floats low increases the fuel height in the float bowl. Some people think that makes the bike run rich. One thing I know it does is increase the risk of the carbs overflowing if the float needle springs are a little weak, or if the pecock is dribbling some (both situations that are quite common with 30 year old carbs).
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

          Comment


            #20
            Correct, Increasing the float level will fatten a carb up. Ok at the race track but not a good idea for everyday riding.
            Has anybody thought that a plugged or restricted tank vent could be causing this? I recently disassembled my gas cap and the vent had a lot of crud in the passageways. It doesn't seem to die at the stop light anymore. My logic is that while moving the vent check balls move around enough to pass air, but sitting at the light may build a slight vacuum in the tank and restricting fuel flow to the carbs. I'm probably all wet with this one.

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              #21
              Float height

              Originally posted by JEEPRUSTY View Post
              I have dis-assembled and re-built my carbs and it would be hard to alter the float tangs unless you were deliberately trying.
              ........
              I totally agree. Also, I've experimented with different float heights a number of times on both of my GS's and found them to be very forgiving. The optimum range, at least on the ones I've owned, has been pretty wide.
              1980 GS1100E, the latest of many.

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                #22
                Has anybody thought that a plugged or restricted tank vent could be causing this? I recently disassembled my gas cap and the vent had a lot of crud in the passageways. It doesn't seem to die at the stop light anymore. My logic is that while moving the vent check balls move around enough to pass air, but sitting at the light may build a slight vacuum in the tank and restricting fuel flow to the carbs.
                Thank you for the thought, it had been suggested in a previous post but sadly, the condition persists even when running on the centerstand fed by the I/V (auxiliary) bottle.

                I think I have some kind of airleak issue and I have new o-rings coming from Mr. Barr soon. I will reclean and rebuild the carbs with the new rings and will take great pains to check and set the float height along with the fuel heioght as per the manual.

                Until I put in fresh o-rings I think I'm just chasing my tail as many have said.

                Hopefully I'll have some good news soon.

                thanks for all the input friends.
                Spyug

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                  #23
                  Spyug your bike will run like a demon possessed pig with marginal or dead intake rings.

                  Mine were like a miracle cure so quit fretting and see what ensues with the new rings.

                  Stop fiddling

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