About to clean carbs for the first time in my life

[Nessism]

You don't need to spend a lot of time on the bench sync. A basic eyeball look is all you need since you will be vacuum syncing the carbs afterwards. People that don't vacuum sync are the ones that need to perform a detailed bench sync. BTW, the bike will never run up to it's proper level without a vacuum sync.

The connection passages you mention between the carbs allow fuel to move from the center on outward to the outer carbs. The outside carbs should NOT have an open passage. Maybe someone swapped out a carb and filled in the passage with glue or something. I believe you are correct that fuel is going to spill. Best to take another look at this detail.

[mrbill5491]

I did not know that, though I haven't gone through the procedure on BassCliffs website either. I was just looking at a set of extra crabs I have and saw what you are talking about. So I more or less start with #3 and set it at its highest point on the sync tool then adjust the others as needed.

It is rather hard to judge how hard the throttle blade is pressing on ANY object in there, whether it's a paper clip or a drill bit.
Personally, I use light shining through the carb to make my adjustments.





Actually, #3 is the "master" carb on the BS series (CV type) carbs, so the only "adjustment" you can do on it is with the idle speed control under the carbs. The sync adjustment between 2&3 will synchronize #2 to #3, but you have to be aware that #1 is slaved off the other side of #2, so any adjustment between 2&3 will also affect #1.

In case you did not know, the factory-recommended sequence is #2, #1, #4.

.

[ekabil]

on the outside facet of carb #4 there is an opening, which was covered by some kind of sealant, that dissolved away when the carb was dipped. With the carb off the rack and dissasembled it was possible to blow air through the opening on one side (the side facing carb #3) but not the other side. Perhaps the opening is sealed on the outside facet but somewhere deeper in the tube, not on the surface or not easily visible. I will cover it with epoxy anyway. Gasoline will not dissolve epoxy, right? Or should I use something else, maybe JBweld?

I replaced every screw on the carb bodies to hex or allen head socket-type bolts. And I replaced the ones on the two gang bars as well. This is investment in the future

I think the throttles are bench synced fairly well. I do have a carbtune from morgan, and adaptors, but first I need to clean up the valve buckets from a previous "adventure" in motorcycle maintenance. hmm I had a carb question but I forgot it. ill add it in later

[mrbill5491]

Question...when you take the plug out of the idle mixture screw space, is it best to pop another type of plug in there after one is done with the syncing? You know to keep curd from settle in there and freezing up the screw at some time. Maybe a rubber plug or?

[Larry D]

Question...when you take the plug out of the idle mixture screw space, is it best to pop another type of plug in there after one is done with the syncing? You know to keep curd from settle in there and freezing up the screw at some time. Maybe a rubber plug or?

I suppose you could if you want to. I don't think it necessary though. I've never heard of anyone replacing it. They were there to keep people from messing with them.