Idle problem

[mike10]

I just tested the stator all is within normal limits. I almost cried. So now I still don't know why this thing drops RPMs untill it dies but only at running temp. Then cranks like the battery is low. It just started doing this last week.

Almost cried ,thank full I would not be buying a stator. I'm not sure what to post this under, Carb/fuel/exhaust, or Electrical.

[Big T]

Okay, not that, so

Valves adjusted?
Float levels?

[BassCliff]

Hi,

I just tested the stator all is within normal limits...

What were your AC readings for each leg? What was the resistance reading between legs? What was the resistance reading between each leg and frame ground?

Here's a litle guide for your reference: Stator Test (PDF)

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[mike10]

Okay, not that, so

Valves adjusted?
Float levels?

Checked valves today all too tight except #1 exhaust and #4 intake. I didn't take them out yet.

[mike10]

Hi,



What were your AC reading for each leg? What was the resistance reading between legs? What was the resistance reading between each leg and frame ground?

Here's a litle guide for your reference: Stator Test (PDF)

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

Resistance between legs 1.3- 1.4 or 1.5 I didn't write them down. All were below 2.0- Leg to ground 0 on all of them, AC , I tried to hold it at 2500RPM they all stayed around 67V

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Hmmmm.

Those stator number seem OK. Although, the resistance between legs on my stators have always been closer to 0.5 ohms.

Have you had your battery load tested? How old is it?

What is the voltage drop between the r/r output and the positive terminal of the battery? The lower the better (0.2v DC or less is ideal). Test at idle and at 4000 rpm or so.

Have you tested the voltage at the coils when cranking? It should be as close to 12v as possible. If it's closer to 10v then there's an issue with the battery or corroded wiring.

Perhaps the next time it dies and then turns over slowly you can try this: Igniter/Signal Generator/Coil Test

Probably not directly related but, have you done all the regular maintenance (clean carbs, adjusted float height, etc)? Are you using an inline fuel filter?


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[mike10]

Hi,

Hmmmm.

Those stator number seem OK. Although, the resistance between legs on my stators have always been closer to 0.5 ohms.

Have you had your battery load tested? How old is it?

What is the voltage drop between the r/r output and the positive terminal of the battery? The lower the better (0.2v DC or less is ideal). Test at idle and at 4000 rpm or so.

Have you tested the voltage at the coils when cranking? It should be as close to 12v as possible. If it's closer to 10v then there's an issue with the battery or corroded wiring.

Perhaps the next time it dies and then turns over slowly you can try this: Igniter/Signal Generator/Coil Test

Probably not directly related but, have you done all the regular maintenance (clean carbs, adjusted float height, etc)? Are you using an inline fuel filter?


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

No inline fuel filter, The coils and RR are only about a year old. The battery is a about 2 years old, Gel type. Have not cleaned the carbs in about 4years. The valves I checked today, were all too tight except 2, I need shims now. I will do those other checks. Guess I,ll have to ride the GS500F to work till the 1000 is fixed. Lucky I have a spare bike. The igniter, and Signal Generator are original equipment. I have also done the coil relay mod.

[mike10]

Not electrical

Ok, starts up eazy, runs like crazy idles fine warming up. After its hot, sitting, idle slowly drops till the engine dies. Then cranks slow as if the battery is low. Hard to start. But multimeter says the battery has 12-plus volts. Is there anything not electrical that would cause this ? Over heating ?

[mike10]

Ok, starts up eazy, runs like crazy idles fine warming up. After its hot, sitting, idle slowly drops till the engine dies. Then cranks slow as if the battery is low. Hard to start. But multimeter says the battery has 12-plus volts. Is there anything not electrical that would cause this ? Over heating ?

Just tested the battery was at 12.70, put the multimeter on it hit the starter it dropped to 10.70 then checked it at the solenoid dropped to 9.90. That's one problem.

[mike10]

Just tested the battery was at 12.70, put the multimeter on it hit the starter it dropped to 10.70 then checked it at the solenoid dropped to 9.90. That's one problem.

Almost forgot only 8.88 volt at starter motor. It cranked slower and slower as I went through the tests. Solenoid wire may need cleaned, starter wire is crap. Guess this has nothing to do with the Idle problem or being hot.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Sounds like you're on your way to fixing one problem. Often these old bikes will have several problems that may seem inter-related. Keep up the good work, one thing at a time.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[mike10]

Hi,

Sounds like your one your way to fixing one problem. Often these old bikes will have several problems that may seem inter-related. Keep up the good work, one thing at a time.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

so far, cam chain tentioner needed fixed, soleniod to starter wire needs fixed, valves need adjusted. I saw on here someplace I thought where someone was making Sig/igniter replacements like the DynaS. But I can't find it again. Do you know? The name was primco or primco can't remember.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

I'm drawing a blank here, but maybe you're referring to Pamco? I'm not familiar with them. You can also...

Check the sticky thread at the top of the electrical section of the forum.

Check the ignitor repair document in the electrical section of my website.

The Dynatech ignition is a popular replacement when the ignitor fails. It's much cheaper than an OEM part.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Big T]

so far, cam chain tentioner needed fixed, soleniod to starter wire needs fixed, valves need adjusted. I saw on here someplace I thought where someone was making Sig/igniter replacements like the DynaS. But I can't find it again. Do you know? The name was primco or primco can't remember.

My Dyna S is approaching 30 years old

It sounds like your tight valves are the primary problem

[mike10]

Yes valves

My Dyna S is approaching 30 years old

It sounds like your tight valves are the primary problem

I just contacted ghostgs to swap some shims tonight....... Just a crazy question. Is the cam lobe position to check clearence just so you can check more than one at a time? It seems like if the lobe was just straight up you could check them OK, just one at a time. In an old thread this fella said his Climers Manuel told him to check them all lobe up.