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Pods, Pipes, Panic! (Help! Your Bike has Pods)
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Guys,
This sticky is an informational thread for you to read
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"Courtesy of BigT"
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Working on '80 8 valve 1000,bought new,adjusted valves (PITA),changed diaphragms,main jets at 140,new plugs,rewired coils from relay,carbs overhauled in Texas 18 months ago,got pods and 4-2 Jardine exhaust,got spark on all 4.Crank up and no gas to #2 and #4,had carbs off 2 or 3 times removed jets and blew air through them,I want to ride but about to give up,wife bitchin about money and time spent on it,it's too old.Maybe another carb set...running out of time.Resized pilot one size larger..found 1 missing on #2,raised needles about a 16th,idles and revs,Life is good.
Last edited by ironbiker; 01-04-2025, 12:14 PM.
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Hello Newbie here.
Has anyone had success with finding a replacement exhaust for a 1981 GS1000G?
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Guys,
This sticky is an informational thread for you to read
DO NOT post up your questions or experiences here
Start a new thread below for your problem or question
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I’m getting ready to rebuild the carbs on my 83 1100E. Last time they were off was in 1984 when the exhaust and pods were put on. This will be the first actual rebuild.So the jetting is spot on but is anything changed or updated significantly since then? Have my bottle brush looking carb cleaners and am ready to go. I’m right at 45,000 one owner miles.
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Originally posted by Yozzer74 View PostHi my bike is gs550ex c.f. carbs custom 4into2 pipe k&n pod filters. I've got denoted kit stage 3kit on needle set on 4th notch down 155 main jets .bike runs crap feels like it's not getting fuel .had it on dyno and this was the results .[ATTACH=CONFIG]55284[/ATTACH]
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Guest repliedHi my bike is gs550ex c.f. carbs custom 4into2 pipe k&n pod filters. I've got denoted kit stage 3kit on needle set on 4th notch down 155 main jets .bike runs crap feels like it's not getting fuel .had it on dyno and this was the results .20180613_162333.jpg
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Guest repliedThat would be correct the inner cyls need to run a little richer as it helps with the cooling you may also find tho that the rings wear a little faster but its negligable and will possibly not be noticable on a normal mildly tune bike
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Guest repliedNot that I've found.
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Guest repliedPerhaps a dumb question. But I have a 1978 gs550. Are there any aftermarket air filters that are perhaps a bit lower profile and smaller then the stock air box that do not require re-jetting?
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No personal experience with your particular setup, but the general concensus is to go 1 turn out on the fuel screw (the one on the bottom) and 1.5 to 1.75 turns out on the air screw (the one on the side). After it warms up enough to run without "choke", use the air screws to fine-tune the mixture for best idling.
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Hey guys,
so ive got my bike torn halfway apart and just started to put here back together. 1978 gs750. I will be running delkevic 4-1 exhaust and K&N pods. I did a full carb tear down, cleaning, orings/gaskets/fuel tubes, re jet (120 main/17.5 pilot) and jet needle moved one notch richer.
I guess my question is: should I start with stock fuel and air screw settings as a benchmark or does anyone have a similar setup that really purrs through the gears, and is willing to share their settings as a better starting point
also I'm installing SS exhaust studs to replace stock bolts.. I've read that you go locktite stud to head , and anti seize on the nuts. Is this correct??
thanks for the space and your time
andrew r
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Originally posted by Harry 66Hello.I have a question to the carburator wizzards. This is a dyno run from my GS750 1977 Uni filter pods, open exhaust. Pilotjet 15, Mainjet 117.5, fuelscrew 2 turns ,air screw 1.75 turn, needle one notch from downside. So needle can move one higher.
It runs not bad however runs a bit lean on the lower revs. Float level standard . What should I do to make it a bit better?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]46629[/ATTACH]
I don't have as much experience with jetting cv type carbs as most of the people here, but I have jetted several regular style carbs using a wideband. I know on a cv carburetor working correctly that the slide isn't open all the way until the engine rpms are high enough to use the additional air. So if your carburetor slide is less than fully open it is using the needle to regulate the amount of fuel entering the engine, I would sure try raising the needle and it should help.
And that is really lean at low rpms...
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