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    #1

    carb breakdown questions

    hey guys,

    took your collective advice and tooks the carbs apart, removed everything and soaked in berrymans.

    however, i forgot to note exactly how deep the pilot air screw should be set. the sticky OEM specs says "1.2" -- does that mean 1.2 rotations from fully seated.

    ALSO: my worst fear happened and i lost one of those tiny-ass washers for the air screw. anyone know where i can find a replacement??

    i'll keep you guys posted when i get everything together and, hopefully, get her running again.
    Tags: None
    #2
    I dont have a clue as to what bike or year youre talking about...click on USERCP at the top and fill in the blanks.
    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

    Comment

      #3
      sorry i should have been more clear.

      it's a 1981 gs650e.

      Comment

        #4
        ok so the cycle o rings guy sells the washers. i should have guessed!

        Comment

          #5
          yup...you got it....he does

          http://cycleorings.com/washers.html


          .

          Comment

            #6
            Hi,

            Originally posted by underground View Post
            however, i forgot to note exactly how deep the pilot air screw should be set. the sticky OEM specs says "1.2" -- does that mean 1.2 rotations from fully seated.
            All of the jets should be snugged into place. However, you mention the "pilot air screw". On the CV carbs there is an "idle mixture adjustment" screw which is sometimes called the "pilot screw" in the service manual.



            The "mixture screw" above will usually be set somewhere between two and three turns out from lightly seated in the stock carbs on a stock bike. We generally use the "highest idle method" to adjust these screws. If it's too difficult to hear the idle change (increase) as you adjust the screws out, start with them all out too far (at least three turns) and adjust them in until you hear the idle decrease, then turn them back out a quarter turn.

            You can also use the Morgan Colortune to make this adjustment, if you have one. Someone posted another way to adjust these screws but I can't remember the thread right now. It had to do with how quickly the engine returns to a stable idle when blipping the throttle. I'm sure a search will turn it up.


            Thank you for your indulgence,

            BassCliff
            Last edited by Guest; 09-11-2012, 04:02 PM.

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              #7
              i mean the things that john bloemer refers to as "air screws" in his breakdown pdf

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                #8
                Hi,

                Originally posted by underground View Post
                i mean the things that john bloemer refers to as "air screws" in his breakdown pdf
                Yes, "air screw" is not really the proper term for those. The manual calls them "pilot screws" and what they do is adjust the amount of idle mixture that the carb gives to the cylinder at idle. That's why they are sometimes called "idle mixture screws". It doesn't adjust the mixture. The mixture itself is pre-set inside the carb body. The screw only adjusts the amount of the mixture that is fed to the cylinder.

                What Mr. Bloemer calls "air screw" is what is pointed out as "mixture screw" in the photo in my previous post.


                Thank you for your indulgence,

                BassCliff

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