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    Carbs cleaned, how to start up again?

    Hi all, just finished a complete carb teardown and reinstalled them. Now I am having a lot of trouble getting the bike to start. What is the right procedure when the fuel bowls in the carbs are empty? Do I need to prime it for some time before I try to start up?

    I'm fairly certain everything is put together correctly. Any tips? It just keeps cranking and I don't want to kill the battery.

    #2
    Put it on PRI for half a minute or so, then back to on.

    It should fire right up.
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

    Life is too short to ride an L.

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      #3
      Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
      Put it on PRI for half a minute or so, then back to on.

      It should fire right up.
      Tried that a couple of times, it just kept cranking. Now the battery is dead! I'm wondering if maybe the battery needs replaced, is it normal for it to discharge that quickly after a week of sitting? I only cranked it off and on for about 5-10 minutes or so.

      I guess its off to the store for a battery charger tomorrow to try again...

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        #4
        5 or 10 minutes is a very long time to crank a starter.
        Something is wrong, it should fire right up in a few seconds. Spark, fuel, compression all OK?

        You are using the choke I presume?
        http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

        Life is too short to ride an L.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by exzachtly1 View Post
          Tried that a couple of times, it just kept cranking. Now the battery is dead! I'm wondering if maybe the battery needs replaced, is it normal for it to discharge that quickly after a week of sitting? I only cranked it off and on for about 5-10 minutes or so.

          I guess its off to the store for a battery charger tomorrow to try again...
          could bump start it

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            #6
            um dude that some pretty serious cranking for one wee battery to endure.

            Charge the battery and fix the problem.

            I am a redneck and use ether as a quick and dirty test to see if a bike will start.
            One shot and no more than that. The bike will roar to life and if it does then you need to get the fuel delivery sorted.

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              #7
              Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
              5 or 10 minutes is a very long time to crank a starter.
              Something is wrong, it should fire right up in a few seconds. Spark, fuel, compression all OK?

              You are using the choke I presume?
              Yeah, choke was on. I'll have to check the spark but should be fine since I just replaced the plugs and checked them before doing this. I don't have anything to check the compression. Bike was starting fine last week before taking the carbs apart.

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                #8
                Oh and btw airbox is connected?

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by JEEPRUSTY View Post
                  Oh and btw airbox is connected?
                  Yessir, everything is connected. Only thing I'm thinking I might have done wrong - when I bench synced I believe I did leave the idle adjustment screw in a position where the butterflies are very slightly open. Should this be adjusted so that they are completely closed when there is no throttle applied? It wasn't totally clear to me in the instructions. Would it cause difficulty starting if those were slightly open?

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                    #10
                    My carbs have to have a tiny opening to idle propely.
                    I have Siamesed bsw30 carbs though and htye are probably different than your.

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                      #11
                      Get a 1.5 Amp Battery Tender. Walmart has them for around $20.
                      The butterfly valve settings are fine.
                      That is a long time to crank.
                      You can leave the petcock on PRI until it starts if the needle and seats are in good shape.

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                        #12
                        Well thanks for the tips, I'll have to take another crack at it tomorrow night after I've had a chance to get a charger and charge the battery. Unfortunately it may be later or monday since tomorrow is day two of my MSF course and I won't be able to make it to the store until after that around 3:00. Here's hoping it's something simple...
                        Last edited by Guest; 09-15-2012, 10:48 PM.

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                          #13
                          I presume you found the screws I left for you?

                          What did you set for your mixture screws? How many turns out?

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                            #14
                            Is the vacuum line hooked up from the petcock to the carbs?

                            Regarding the main idle screw, the tutorial that I used said two turn in after it makes contact with the plate. It says be ready, the rpm's may skyrocket, so you may have to back it out right away...but with full choke on, it will race up anyways.

                            Other than the vacuum like, not sure. crack your carb bowl drain screws abd see if they have fuel in them yet. If no, you have a seriously kinked fuel line or some fuel delivery issue.

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by Steve View Post
                              I presume you found the screws I left for you?

                              What did you set for your mixture screws? How many turns out?

                              .
                              I did! Thanks again for that, did you get my text? I turned the screws 2.5 turns out after fully seating them.

                              Just a little background on what exactly I've done between when it last ran and now:
                              • Tore down carbs per the instructions on bikecliff's site
                              • Used carb dip
                              • Checked / cleaned all jets. Replaced pilot jets that were stripped from PO.
                              • Confirmed all jets were stock sizes
                              • Replaced all o-rings with kit from cycleorings.com
                              • New float bowl gaskets
                              • New pilot jet plugs
                              • Checked float height with calipers
                              • Bench synced
                              • Mixture screws set to 2.5 turns out from seated
                              • Replaced intake boot o-rings
                              • Reassembled with stainless steel fasteners

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