I'm fairly certain everything is put together correctly. Any tips? It just keeps cranking and I don't want to kill the battery.
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Carbs cleaned, how to start up again?
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Carbs cleaned, how to start up again?
Hi all, just finished a complete carb teardown and reinstalled them. Now I am having a lot of trouble getting the bike to start. What is the right procedure when the fuel bowls in the carbs are empty? Do I need to prime it for some time before I try to start up?
I'm fairly certain everything is put together correctly. Any tips? It just keeps cranking and I don't want to kill the battery.Tags: None
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exzachtly1
Originally posted by tkent02 View PostPut it on PRI for half a minute or so, then back to on.
It should fire right up.
I guess its off to the store for a battery charger tomorrow to try again...
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Qhergt
Originally posted by exzachtly1 View PostTried that a couple of times, it just kept cranking. Now the battery is dead! I'm wondering if maybe the battery needs replaced, is it normal for it to discharge that quickly after a week of sitting? I only cranked it off and on for about 5-10 minutes or so.
I guess its off to the store for a battery charger tomorrow to try again...
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JEEPRUSTY
um dude that some pretty serious cranking for one wee battery to endure.
Charge the battery and fix the problem.
I am a redneck and use ether as a quick and dirty test to see if a bike will start.
One shot and no more than that. The bike will roar to life and if it does then you need to get the fuel delivery sorted.
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exzachtly1
Originally posted by tkent02 View Post5 or 10 minutes is a very long time to crank a starter.
Something is wrong, it should fire right up in a few seconds. Spark, fuel, compression all OK?
You are using the choke I presume?
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JEEPRUSTY
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exzachtly1
Originally posted by JEEPRUSTY View PostOh and btw airbox is connected?
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JEEPRUSTY
My carbs have to have a tiny opening to idle propely.
I have Siamesed bsw30 carbs though and htye are probably different than your.
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koolaid_kid
Get a 1.5 Amp Battery Tender. Walmart has them for around $20.
The butterfly valve settings are fine.
That is a long time to crank.
You can leave the petcock on PRI until it starts if the needle and seats are in good shape.
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exzachtly1
Well thanks for the tips, I'll have to take another crack at it tomorrow night after I've had a chance to get a charger and charge the battery. Unfortunately it may be later or monday since tomorrow is day two of my MSF course and I won't be able to make it to the store until after that around 3:00. Here's hoping it's something simple...Last edited by Guest; 09-15-2012, 10:48 PM.
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I presume you found the screws I left for you?
What did you set for your mixture screws? How many turns out?
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hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
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#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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loud et
Is the vacuum line hooked up from the petcock to the carbs?
Regarding the main idle screw, the tutorial that I used said two turn in after it makes contact with the plate. It says be ready, the rpm's may skyrocket, so you may have to back it out right away...but with full choke on, it will race up anyways.
Other than the vacuum like, not sure. crack your carb bowl drain screws abd see if they have fuel in them yet. If no, you have a seriously kinked fuel line or some fuel delivery issue.
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exzachtly1
Originally posted by Steve View PostI presume you found the screws I left for you?
What did you set for your mixture screws? How many turns out?
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Just a little background on what exactly I've done between when it last ran and now:
- Tore down carbs per the instructions on bikecliff's site
- Used carb dip
- Checked / cleaned all jets. Replaced pilot jets that were stripped from PO.
- Confirmed all jets were stock sizes
- Replaced all o-rings with kit from cycleorings.com
- New float bowl gaskets
- New pilot jet plugs
- Checked float height with calipers
- Bench synced
- Mixture screws set to 2.5 turns out from seated
- Replaced intake boot o-rings
- Reassembled with stainless steel fasteners
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