Dumb question - airbox connection to carbs?

[exzachtly1]

Ugh... feeling pretty frustrated by this. I pulled everything out tonight. Fixed the way the ring was seated inside the airbox boot; only one of them seemed wrong. Then I tried to connect everything back together - the operative word being tried. Fought the airbox boots for about an hour trying to get all of them to seat on the carb all the way - but no matter what I did, I could not get all 4 evenly seated. Ended up having the outer two (1 and 4) connected just right, then couldn't get the middle ones. Then I tried the middle ones first and I couldn't get #4 on. It seems that it's just impossible to get all 4 of them on right at the same time and I don't know why. Here's what I ended up with - you're looking at 2 and 3 not being seated correctly (barely on there):



And of course I still have the increasing idle issue. Started at 1200 and within a few minutes of warming up it was at 1500-1600. Could this type of a connection problem cause an issue that severe?

Now, I checked the rubber on the boots and they seem good. Nice and flexible. I don't really want to spend the 60 bucks on new boots + clamps if I don't have to, only to find out that the airbox is deformed or something. It didn't look like it to me but now I'm wondering if that might be the case.

Is this supposed to be this difficult? What the heck am I doing wrong

And another question, just to be sure - those copper rings inside the throat of the boots, are they supposed to be in that interior channel or right inside the opening (flush with the part that connects to the carbs)?? I assume that having them right where the carbs connect would not make a good connection, but just wanted to double check. They seemed to be in the right place.

[exzachtly1]

Had a thought that maybe I'm going about it wrong, too. Maybe it would be better to disconnect the intake side and push the carbs into the airbox, rather than pushing the airbox into the carbs???

[Frank Z.]

Hang in there, man. You are where i was about a year ago... wrasslin' with the airbox thing. There are a few seasoned forum members in your area that could give you a hand with stuff. Nothing like 4 eyes and 4 hands working on the old gals, esp. someone with experience. Hello Ohio folks???

[koolaid_kid]

Slipping the carbs into both the airbox and the intake boots is nothing short of an art form. It takes time, patience and practice. Understand one fundamental concept, however. You absolutely MUST have them all the way on, for all 4 carbs, on both the airbox and the intake side, or it will run lean (high idle). When you get frustrated with it, just walk away for a while.
Probably the worst is the 1100E, and I got mine down to less than half an hour. That is how tough they can be.

[bwringer]

Your airbox may be warped a bit. Are the inner boots ending up on the same plane as the outers, or is the plastic of the airbox sort of sagging in the middle?

On a certain GS1100E (hey, koolaid...!), we struggled with the airbox quite a while until I had the idea to use a piece of wood to push on the inside of the airbox in the middle in order to seat the inner clamps. The owner ended up ordering a new airbox from Suzuki to fix the problem more or less permanently.

However, I think it is possible that you could heat up a plastic airbox carefully with a heat gun and very very carefully and gently push it back into shape.

Also, new airbox boots will astonish you with the difference -- even if the old ones still seem flexible, they shrink by a surprising amount over the years. When you get the new ones, you may even be upset thinking that you got the wrong parts, because they're 1/3 larger than the old ones.

One last trick: if you find that one of your airbox boots folded over at the lip and warped, you can reshape it with a heat gun. I used an old bearing that happened to be the same diameter as the carb, but a piece of pipe or socket would work. I slowly heated the boot and worked it back into shape until I could clamp it onto the bearing. After it cooled, it was good as new.

[koolaid_kid]

Oh fine, bring that up. I neither admit nor deny anything.
Except the new airbox boots, coupled with the new intake boots, may, or may not, have made a world of difference. If I had done it. Perhaps.

[mrbill5491]

Mounting the carbs tis an art form for sure. It takes longer to mount them back then setting your valves lol!! Best thing you can do is have new rubber boots and clamps.

One problem I ran into when I order all new boots were the rings that go inside the air box. The rings were a new part number and not split (solid ring all around) like the old ones. I must have tired for 2 hours to get them in and to no avail did I. I took the old ones and expanded them back out some where they fit tight back in, didn't take but a few minutes for those.

[Crankthat]

This is what i do on 81 750 you may have carb to engine boots on your model that part of this will not apply to as they bolt onto motor as mine do not.

When taking carbs on and off i do the airbox first with the two bolts holding airbox to frame off. then i start the two bolts back in but not all the way

The boots to engine intake i mark before i take them off with a paint marker with carb number and a line letting me know what is top center for each boot-carb.

I fit carbs in location and attach to airbox.

Then i will install the two inside boots (carb to motor) first coming in at the widest space between carb and intake with smallest part of boot getting the boot over each end and then twisting so mark is on top. Then same process with outside boots. Then finish tightening two small bolt on airbox to frame.

I have found this works best for me. Seeing as you already had dissembled you will not be able to mark your boots but with some twisting you should be able to find the sweet spot for a good carb level (alignment for airbox fit) also helps to have filter housing disconnected from airbox if not done already.

I hope this info helps.

[mrbill5491]

This is what i do on 81 750 you may have carb to engine boots on your model that part of this will not apply to as they bolt onto motor as mine do not.

When taking carbs on and off i do the airbox first with the two bolts holding airbox to frame off. then i start the two bolts back in but not all the way

The boots to engine intake i mark before i take them off with a paint marker with carb number and a line letting me know what is top center for each boot-carb.

I fit carbs in location and attach to airbox.

Then i will install the two inside boots (carb to motor) first coming in at the widest space between carb and intake with smallest part of boot getting the boot over each end and then twisting so mark is on top. Then same process with outside boots. Then finish tightening two small bolt on airbox to frame.

I have found this works best for me. Seeing as you already had dissembled you will not be able to mark your boots but with some twisting you should be able to find the sweet spot for a good carb level (alignment for airbox fit) also helps to have filter housing disconnected from airbox if not done already.

I hope this info helps.

Yup that is the way.

[teedubya56]

I had a similar problem when I replaced my airbox boots. I had them turned (rotated) wrong. There is a mark on the boot that has to go up (or down) - don't remember which. Maybe someone can tell you the exact orientation you need.

[exzachtly1]

I think the first thing I will try is removing the filter box, so I can get in behind the airbox and push with something. That should definitely help seat the inner two.

I just want to get things connected if at all possible so I can ride for a bit before the weather goes cold. I don't want to have my bike out of commission for another week and half waiting on parts if I can help it!

After that, anything goes. I'll probably strongly consider replacing the boots and clamps over the winter. Maybe I won't have a choice and will have to do it now. I'll post back after I get some time to monkey around again...

[tom203]

Had a thought that maybe I'm going about it wrong, too. Maybe it would be better to disconnect the intake side and push the carbs into the airbox, rather than pushing the airbox into the carbs???

No ,leave the carbs carefully connected to boots at intake manifold. Disconnect the air filter box and push it as far back as possible ( loosen fender bolts, loosen wires, etc. anything to get a 1/2 inch)

[Crankthat]

TOM203 has a 82 650 in signature so he would know best. Looks like set up on 550l from what i can see. Follow frame down on both sides of rear wheel the plastic part of rear fender should have a tab on each side that you can push in and past frame to get a little more room for sliding filter housing like tom said probably going to be wires maybe elect parts attached to filter housing and some bolts to take off. might only be a half inch but can guarantee that will make a difference in moving back and forth. I feel your pain as i remember the first time had carbs off a 550... And i thought the 750 was difficult.

[WarmFZI]

Not to assume anything, are the plenum to carb boots rotated appropriately, if they aren't turned properly, they probably can't reasonably be attached.
Also, on my 650G, the plenum to air box connection has a lot of play, so loosen that clamp and push the plenum as far forward as you can when the boot clamps are loose.

[tom203]

TOM203 has a 82 650 in signature so he would know best. .

Haha- never had to do it yet! my bike runs too good still (knock on wood! )- but I've done similar. PM member BigD83 in Vancouver, he's overly experienced in an actual 650 carb removal and reinstall.