Loss of power around 5-6k RPM

[salty_monk]

Did you adjust the valves yet? Always good practice...

[tom203]

exzactly1 said...
"Seems to struggle around 4.5-6k RPM depending on what gear I'm in"

Could be ignitor or maybe the timing advance is stuck- remove signal generator cover and see if weights move freely.

[exzachtly1]

I had a faulty stock igniter on a 1000G that displayed similar symptoms. Chased it for ages thinking it was fuel related....

Maybe your aftermarket ignition is doing the same... What ignition does it have on it?

I'm not sure how to tell. The coils and wires are yellow; I can take a picture later maybe if that would help. Would it be printed somewhere on there?

Did you adjust the valves yet? Always good practice...

I have not done this yet. It's on my list. You're talking about the clearances right?

exzactly1 said...
"Seems to struggle around 4.5-6k RPM depending on what gear I'm in"

Could be ignitor or maybe the timing advance is stuck- remove signal generator cover and see if weights move freely.

Is there a tutorial on the bikecliff site for this? I'm totally new to doing anything with the ignition system so I might need some more guidance here.

Thanks guys.

[Frank Z.]

Add one more thing to your check list:
Make sure your needle jet's spacers/washers are in proper sequence. Pay particular attention to placement of thick plastic washer (#7) and thin metal washer (#36). Mine were swapped and caused the 5K rpm stumble you speak of... basically allowing needle to "flutter" under roll-on. You'll need ring pliers with long tines to remove the circlip (#10) to disassemble slides and thus check needle jets.

Hope this helps.

[exzachtly1]

Interesting, thanks Frank. I'll check that too next time I have the carbs off. I have not messed with those myself but perhaps another owner did.

[salty_monk]

I'm not sure how to tell. The coils and wires are yellow; I can take a picture later maybe if that would help. Would it be printed somewhere on there?



I have not done this yet. It's on my list. You're talking about the clearances right?



Is there a tutorial on the bikecliff site for this? I'm totally new to doing anything with the ignition system so I might need some more guidance here.

Thanks guys.

I suspect your COILS are ACCEL (given the yellow colour). This does not mean that your IGNITION trigger system is aftermarket though...
If you remove the small right side cover (throttle side) and take a picture we'll be able to tell you if it's stock or otherwise. It's reasonably common for the stock ignitor's to go bad after 30 years so it may be that you need to get a Dyna S in there or something...

There is a stock ignitor test in the Clymer manual that will tell you if it's faulty. You will need a multimeter.

You may find your bike does not have mechanical advance (saw that suggestion posted above). I think they went to electronic advance in 82 on the G bikes.

Valves - yes clearances.

[exzachtly1]

I suspect your COILS are ACCEL (given the yellow colour). This does not mean that your IGNITION trigger system is aftermarket though...
If you remove the small right side cover (throttle side) and take a picture we'll be able to tell you if it's stock or otherwise. It's reasonably common for the stock ignitor's to go bad after 30 years so it may be that you need to get a Dyna S in there or something...

There is a stock ignitor test in the Clymer manual that will tell you if it's faulty. You will need a multimeter.

You may find your bike does not have mechanical advance (saw that suggestion posted above). I think they went to electronic advance in 82 on the G bikes.

Valves - yes clearances.

Coils do appear to be ACCEL brand, it says that on the plug wires. Here is a pic of the ignition system.



This is electronic, right? The PO did say that it had an aftermarket electronic ignition. I do not have a clymer manual; can someone explain the test? I do have a nice recently purchased multimeter but I have not really done any tests with it yet since I'm not totally confident in what I'm doing in that area.

On my list:

• Remove carbs. Check float levels and slide diaphragm assembly.
• Attach vent hoses - these are missing but I have the OEM hoses now. Is it possible that this could affect performance at all? I've read some posts around the net stating that it could be a problem if these are missing or routed incorrectly...
• Check valve clearances
• Ensure good connection at airbox and check for leaks.
• Test ignition system (need help here)

I hope to get to some of this today, but the weather is nice so I might go for a ride instead and save all of this for a rainy day


Hopefully this week I can report back with some results. In the meantime any help with the ignition testing would be appreciated. I'll also check the plugs and see how they look after my ride today.

[tom203]

Nice day- go for ride. Not aftermarket,that's the stock ignition setup (signal generator coils). Grab hex nut and twist clockwise- should move about 30 degrees and spring back smoothly when released. Remove seat, right above battery ,there are two electrical connectors. The one with just two wires - blue and green - is the one that connects to signal generator coils. disconnect this plug and measure resistance on wires running to signal coils (step 11 in the link below)

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/electrical_odd-n-ends.html#A17

[salty_monk]

It's rare that the triggers go bad unless the bike has had a spill... Usually the ignitor. The test involves energizing some of the connections with an AA battery.
You should be able to get a copy of the page specific to your bike, I don't have that.

I can't see from that pic if it has the mechanical advance... it looks like it but I can't be sure.

[exzachtly1]

It's rare that the triggers go bad unless the bike has had a spill... Usually the ignitor. The test involves energizing some of the connections with an AA battery.
You should be able to get a copy of the page specific to your bike, I don't have that.

I can't see from that pic if it has the mechanical advance... it looks like it but I can't be sure.

Do I need to take the plate off to see that? Also, I tried turning it like tom suggested and it didn't seem to do any "springing back." It just kind of turned. I also watched it while the bike was running and revved the engine RPMs and it seems to move freely even at high RPM.

And for what its worth I checked the spark plugs and they looked good. Mostly tan colored.

[exzachtly1]

Took off the carbs and checked float heights, all were pretty spot on so I don't think that was the issue.

Here is the fiche for my Signal generator http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/fiche...GNAL+GENERATOR

You're saying to turn it using bolt marked #6 in the fiche? When I tried that it did not spring back... Just kind of kept turning. Is that wrong?

I have a tappet tool, feeler gauge, and compression gauge in the mail so I will be checking valve clearances and compression soon. I haven't ruled out an air leak, ignition issues, or electrical issues... Just gotta find some time to get the manual out and learn how to take these readings. Im a total newbie with electric stuff.

Also think I will be ordering those airbox boots and clamps this week...

[exzachtly1]

Nice day- go for ride. Not aftermarket,that's the stock ignition setup (signal generator coils). Grab hex nut and twist clockwise- should move about 30 degrees and spring back smoothly when released. Remove seat, right above battery ,there are two electrical connectors. The one with just two wires - blue and green - is the one that connects to signal generator coils. disconnect this plug and measure resistance on wires running to signal coils (step 11 in the link below)

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...-ends.html#A17

I'll start with this one when I do get to testing the electrics.

[koolaid_kid]

Part #7 on that fiche locks into the spring loaded advance. See the two tabs on part #5?
It would be the one you want to test the springs with.

[exzachtly1]

Part #7 on that fiche locks into the spring loaded advance. See the two tabs on part #5?
It would be the one you want to test the springs with.

Ah yes, thank you. Gotta grab a 19mm socket tomorrow and try that.

[Mr. Sinister]

This sounds EXACTLY like my problem. I have yet to tear into the airbox, but I think I'll be starting there along with checking the valves before I tear apart my freshly rebuilt carbs.