excess vacuum ports

[Agemax]

1 138 DJ jet is equivalent to 130 Mik. a 128 Mik jet is a 136 D/J jet,a 128 DJ jet is a 120 Mik.
it depends whether he is using DJ jets or Mikuni jets as to how it will perform

[chuck hahn]

I posted a conversion chart a few weeks ago.....

http://www.jockeyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=64769

[Remington44-77]

To OldVet66: you are correct ,I got the jet size wrong, the off the top of my head input was off. I've got carb #3 plugged. The Pingal valve has no vacuum port but does have a reserve position.
I noticed the bike gets light in the front when accelerating form a rolling start. I haven't cranked on it real hard as the speed limit downtown is 30 MPH. But it feels like the front could easily go up.
I'm an fat old, 63, fart about 285 Lb. It will be fun to get on the road with it again.

[chuck hahn]

I have 4 1000s and each has ample power to raise the front wheel if I really wanted to. The front will raise quite a bit as you accelerate as the forks extend..it feels light but thats just the way they are...take alook down at the tubes once as you roll thru a few gears and youll see what i mean.

[OldVet66]

Your right about the front end getting light, especially with your big bore kit. In stop and go traffic several times I got the same light front end changing lanes with a fast roll on in second, until someone asked me how I did that with the front end 4 inches off the pavement. I don't know because I thought both wheels were on the ground.

[Big T]

The insurance guy said the serial number made it a 78C.

Well, he's wrong - it's a 79

Give it good run before you put it away for winter - rain is coming this week end!

[Gregory]

I will vouch for Chucks input, these bikes have plenty of power to wheelie.

Although I am a newbie with a basket case I am currently working on... in the 80's I owned a 78skunk and an 80 GS1000.

I could keep those bikes on one wheel for a mile if I chose to (i was not too wise or scared of anything back in those days)

Without dumping the clutch, I remember that the easiest way to bring it up was to get the RPM's up in first gear, let off the throttle, and as it rev's down snap the throttle back and the front would be all the way up. (always keeping my brake foot ready for to bring it down in an emergency)

[Remington44-77]

Ok I apparently still have a carb plug problem. When I ran it a little harder getting home yesterday evening, it was idling above two K and wouldn't come down. Sounds like the leaning out problem.
I think I know what is going on. My carbs sat in a plastic storage box for 15 years, I had cleaned them but not re-assembled then. I am thinking that I got carb bodys #2 and #3 out of order - reversed
The stock fuel valve had been connected to the second carb from the left which should have been in position #3. Agemax; I see where all the confusion was coming from.

[Agemax]

look at the air mixture screws on 2 and 3 carbs, are they both pointing towards the outside of the engine or are they both pointing towards each other?
if its the latter then they are wrongly fitted.

[Remington44-77]

Your right again, the air screws are correct, so I won't need to pull this down again this coming weekend. Wish I could find my mercury tubes. They are buried in the junk some where. I've spent several evenings looking for them. But then it took a month to find the side covers. This is why I haven't taken that long ride yet this year.

[Agemax]

you could pop the carbs off and bench synch them to get you in the ball park if they are way off. also make sure you have no air leaks and the choke mechanism is shutting all the plungers properly

[Remington44-77]

That is what I did to get it to this point. Although I've had them off and on so many times. I should re check for vacuum leeks again. Tried to drive to work this morning with the #3 carb uncapped. Made it two blocks and pulled over to re-plug it. As soon as it warmed up a little, it started to idle fast again. I ass-u-me that the mix is leaning out.

[chuck hahn]

Never set the idle on an engine that isnt thoruoghly warmed up...take it for a good ride and then stop on the wayside and turn it down to around 1100 or so. This of course will mean you will have to let it warm up well with a little assist from the choke when it is cold, but thats the "normal" way it is supposed to go anyway. Also check to see that one of the airbox boots hasnt slipped off..i had a bike that was notorious for this happening. Turned out that if you looked at the airbox, the plastic was kinda sucjed in and the face of the box was not letting the boot go far enough ahead and fit to the carb properly. I would get it on and the airbox would then actually be pulling it back off. What i did was take a heat gun and gently heat the airbox plastic..then took a hammer handle and went in from the backside and force the wall of the airbox back flat and held it there to cool. Thats eleviated the airbox pulling the boots off. Also it wont hurt to just double check the intake manifold Orings to see if one got pinched or is in any way holding the manifold off the head correctly..its been known to happen!!!

[chuck hahn]

Unplugging the vacuum on 3 will only lean out number 3...not the other 3 cylinders. Do as I suggested above. Take a dab of ultra black RTV and smear it on the Orings to be sure they dont slip out of the grooves in the intake boots as you reinstall them. The RTV wont hurt anything and may infact plug any micro cracks. Take a small blade flat tip and be sure the groove is real clean too...that lets the oring seal fully and not have airleaks from crud. Take a green dish scrubbie and clean the surfaces on the head as well so they are nice and shiney. You should be seeing a pattern that hints toward everything has to be clean..not wiped off..clean.