I tore into my vm carbs...

[Steve]

Thing i was thinking when I was doing the zip tie method is this::: Why double over the tie and do all that engineering to it...why not just make one bend about 1/2 inch up from the buckle and use that.

Because it is not quite thick enough to give you the clearance you need to remove the shim.

Now, if you have a really thick zip-tie, it might work.

Besides, when it's folded over, it's a bit of a safety feature.
With repeated use, the zip-tie will eventually wear out and the tip will break off.
If you have it folded over and held with some shrink-wrap or tape, only one side will be cut, and nothing will fall into the cylinder.

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[chuck hahn]

I was thinking along the lines of the thicker industrial sized ties. Not the "average" size like for fastening the wires to the bars type.

[slyone]

Hi guys, I moved this new valve adj. discussion over to maintainance. Please look, Thanks

[Steve]

I was thinking along the lines of the thicker industrial sized ties. Not the "average" size like for fastening the wires to the bars type.

I would still go for the safety of the doubled-over zip-tie.

Granted, it takes a while to cut through a zip-tie. If you use a fresh one every time, you will never have a problem. In my travels, I can't tell you how many valve adjustments I have done, or for how many GSers. As an experiment, I used the same zip-tie for as many valve adjustments as possible, to see how long it would last. Keep in mind that it is used the most on the first adjustment, where you have to check EVERY shim, change a few (sometimes twice), then check them again, so the zip-tie might get used 15-20 times. On any subsequent inspection, you should only need to use it for the two or three valves that might need to be adjusted, certainly not for all of them, again. I think I was on my sixth valve adjustment when I noticed the zip-tie had been worn through, so it is close to 100 times that it can be stuck in there and pinched.

Again, for a single user with a single bike, one zip-tie might last you a lifetime, I am probably at the other extreme for frequency of use.

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[chuck hahn]

I have the Motion pro tool as well..but honestly the zip tie is a must for on the road travels far as I am concerned...you can get them almost anywhere and most auto parts stores have good permatex or whatever to limp the cover gasket along. Most peole dont think about throwing the tool in the kit so learning the zip tie method is a great backup plan in my opinion.

[Steve]

I have a good share of my tools with me on my road trips, but I am carrying them around in my van.

Regardless, I do have "the tool", just to show my weekend "victims" what the proper tool looks like, and even show them the frustrations that I have when trying to use it. Then I break out the zip-tie and we get down to business.

Getting a zip-tie is no problem with my kit, either. I usually have a good assortment of over 200 available at most times.

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[MisterCinders]

I have the tool and have used it loads of times. The bucket has slipped only once or twice, and then merely as I was depressing the valve, not after it was locked down. This after numerous valve checks and adjustments.

Never understood all the hate for the special tool.

[slyone]

I have a good share of my tools with me on my road trips, but I am carrying them around in my van.

Regardless, I do have "the tool", just to show my weekend "victims" what the proper tool looks like, and even show them the frustrations that I have when trying to use it. Then I break out the zip-tie and we get down to business.

Getting a zip-tie is no problem with my kit, either. I usually have a good assortment of over 200 available at most times.

.

me too...now

[andler2008]

where did you get the "T" between carb 2 and 3? I looked on z1e and i only saw one for kz1000's? is that what you used? it was aluminum and came with o-rings. part #ZSM05-1010

[slyone]

Got it all back together today! Runs great in the garage can hardly wait for tomorrow...to many deer at night. I kinda was sloppy counting my pilot fuel jets and not as bad with the pilot air jets...but then couldn't find where I wrote them anyways so I set all of them at 1.5 to 1.75 turns out? Prolly like to get those zeroed in exactly. Glad those fuel pilots under the carbs are reachable without having to remove the float bowls.
A Big Thanks to all who got me thru all this maintainance this weekend, now I don't have to worry about it for a long time...hopefully

[Steve]

I kinda was sloppy counting my pilot fuel jets and not as bad with the pilot air jets...but then couldn't find where I wrote them anyways so I set all of them at 1.5 to 1.75 turns out? Prolly like to get those zeroed in exactly.

Proper setting will depend on whether you have stock intake and exhaust.

Assuming that you have stock hardware (have not seen anything to the contrary), the fuel screws (the ones on the bottom), should be about 3/4 to 7/8 turn out, the air screws (the ones on the sides) should be about double that.

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[slyone]

Proper setting will depend on whether you have stock intake and exhaust.

Assuming that you have stock hardware (have not seen anything to the contrary), the fuel screws (the ones on the bottom), should be about 3/4 to 7/8 turn out, the air screws (the ones on the sides) should be about double that.

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Thanks Steve, yea it's all stock. bottom fuel screws are set at like 1.5-1.75 guess I'll try to get those in.

[slyone]

Reset my fuel pilot screws to 1 turn out, everything seems good except the rpm's is quite slow to descend back to base idle?? I was thinking maybe the sliders aren't returning quickly enough? Cause I did lightly lube their bores but maybe shouldn't have? Throttle grip returns descent, though it doesn't "snap" back... Maybe this is how they are...but I think not. any ideas?

[Gregory]

oops

Take all the plugs out so your not fighting all the compression from the other cylinders too. Start at number 4 ..so youre on the same side as the crank nut...and look down the plug hole with a flashlight and just roll the crank over with youre wrench and get a feel or whats happening in there and youll figure it out pretty fast...you seem like a sharp guy. and always turn the engine clockwise at the crank.

I had a person helping me yesterday and they cranked it counterclockwise about a 10th of a revolution... how will i know if it did any damage?

[cowboyup3371]

You will be fine