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White smoke coming from crank case

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    #16
    Originally posted by hjfisk View Post
    So you have confirmed a bad petcock. Now why is it flooding the motor? is it that the float level is set incorrectly or do you have bad needle and seats on 1 or more carbs?Or is there rust or some other foreign matter missing things up on you?
    You need to check this also.

    Think of it this way: You replace the petcock, but the needle and seat are still leaking. You can still overflow the carbs whilst riding and still have fuel in your oil. You have to fix both issues or you will still have problems.
    Best of luck.

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      #17
      Originally posted by koolaid_kid View Post
      You need to check this also.

      Think of it this way: You replace the petcock, but the needle and seat are still leaking. You can still overflow the carbs whilst riding and still have fuel in your oil. You have to fix both issues or you will still have problems.
      Best of luck.
      Yes you have 2 things at least going on, petcock is confirmed as being bad , now it is definitely a needle and seat or more than 1 but why check your float heights first, if the are good find out which needle's are not holding fuel back. I test this with the carbs off the bike and a IV can of gas[ separate fuel source with a fuel line]hook it up turn on the fuel hold carbs level and see what one is leaking won't take long.
      1984 GS1100GK newest addition to the heard
      80 GS 1000gt- most favorite ride love this bike
      1978 GS1000E- Known as "RoadKill" , Finished :D
      83 gs750ed- first new purchase
      85 EX500- vintage track weapon
      1958Ducati 98 Tourismo
      “Remember When in doubt use full throttle, It may not improve the situation ,but it will end the suspense ,
      If it isn't going to make it faster or safer it isn't worth doing

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        #18
        I run this test every time I rebuild a set of carbs. If it won't go at least an hour without leaking I take it back apart and fix the problem. I have a special wide glass pan that I set the carbs in and a 2x4 to keep the carbs in the proper orientation.
        My carbs can go overnight without leaking; I have accidentally left my test tank connected more than once without any leaks.

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          #19
          Originally posted by koolaid_kid View Post
          I run this test every time I rebuild a set of carbs. If it won't go at least an hour without leaking I take it back apart and fix the problem. I have a special wide glass pan that I set the carbs in and a 2x4 to keep the carbs in the proper orientation.
          My carbs can go overnight without leaking; I have accidentally left my test tank connected more than once without any leaks.
          Same here except I use the vice and a pan on the floor.
          1984 GS1100GK newest addition to the heard
          80 GS 1000gt- most favorite ride love this bike
          1978 GS1000E- Known as "RoadKill" , Finished :D
          83 gs750ed- first new purchase
          85 EX500- vintage track weapon
          1958Ducati 98 Tourismo
          “Remember When in doubt use full throttle, It may not improve the situation ,but it will end the suspense ,
          If it isn't going to make it faster or safer it isn't worth doing

          Comment


            #20
            So, tonight I will buy a new petcock and when I put it on I'll use your methods to check and see which needle, if any are leaking. Correct?

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              #21
              Originally posted by Twowheeledlife View Post
              So, tonight I will buy a new petcock and when I put it on I'll use your methods to check and see which needle, if any are leaking. Correct?
              Yup. It's not that difficult:
              Pull the carbs. (You gotta remove the tank to install the petcock anyway.)
              Place in a container (to catch the fuel) and stabilize them so the sit with the tops of the carbs parallel to the ground.
              Place your fuel container (you can use your fuel tank, I have a separate fuel container) so the top level of fuel is approximately the same height as the top of your fuel tank relative to the carbs when they are mounted on the bike.
              Let the fuel flow, see which carb(s) leak.
              Drain the bowls and remove them.
              Pull the floats, remove the needle, clean both the needle and the seat with carb cleaner.
              Put back together and repeat.
              I won't let a set of carbs go until it lasts no less than an hour. (Yeah, I time it.)
              When you are satisfied, reinstall and have a blast.

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                #22
                Thanks guys, I really appreciate it! The petcock is ordered and once I pull my carbs off I'll let you all know what I find. Seriously would have been completely lost if it weren't for you all, thanks again!

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                  #23
                  Hey guys, I replaced the petcock and changed my oil as well as testing my carburetors for leakage. Everything went well and there were no leaks. The white smoke has lessened but there still is some. The smell isn't the same as it was though which is good. Does this sound correct?

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                    #24
                    So far. The smoke should cease after a bit.

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                      #25
                      I'll bet your filter is real close to the crank vent. Move it back away from the vent, and it will be much less of a problem.
                      http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

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                        #26
                        That smoke is fuel vapor that's slipping past the piston rings. Commonly known as blow-by gasses. Perfectly normal, up to a point. If there is too much it could indicate worn rings. Of course fixing the petcock and carbs is good, but unless you are dumping a bunch of fuel into the crankcase, these fixes are unlikely to help the situation.

                        To check the condition of your rings either a leakdown test or a compression test is in order. Needless to say, you must assure the valves are adjusted before doing tests like these. Also, the engine needs to be warm and the throttle held wide open if you do a compression test.

                        Hope this helps and good luck
                        Ed

                        To measure is to know.

                        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                          #27
                          Also, while you have the bowls off, check the overflow tubes for blockages. When you have a leaky float needle the fuel should run straight out the the overflow tubes and not into the crank.
                          -Mal

                          "The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once." - B. Banzai
                          ___________

                          78 GS750E

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                            #28
                            Oldvet66, it is very close to the crankcase. Would that be a problem?

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