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Need Source for mixture screws

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    #16
    Go back and read each sectional break down. The PILOT supplies a premetered MIX of air and fuel. The bleeder tube supplies the air to the main cicuit to be mixed with the fuel. The ( air, mixture, flux capacitor, humidity, or whatever esle you wanna call it) meters the mixture in the main circuit..just the same as the pilot screw meters the premetered mixture at low speeds and at idle. When you adjust the screw on the side it adjust that mixture of air to fuel supplied in the main circuit..yes it adds or removes AIR, but that not what the carb manufacturer calls it..I am not arguing WHAT it does,,,I am arguing its correct name that MIKUNI calls it. After all, they manufactured them and named them so I will go with thier terminology.
    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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      #17
      Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
      Go back and read each sectional break down. The PILOT supplies a premetered MIX of air and fuel. The bleeder tube supplies the air to the main cicuit to be mixed with the fuel. The ( air, mixture, flux capacitor, humidity, or whatever esle you wanna call it) meters the mixture in the main circuit..just the same as the pilot screw meters the premetered mixture at low speeds and at idle. When you adjust the screw on the side it adjust that mixture of air to fuel supplied in the main circuit..yes it adds or removes AIR, but that not what the carb manufacturer calls it..I am not arguing WHAT it does,,,I am arguing its correct name that MIKUNI calls it. After all, they manufactured them and named them so I will go with thier terminology.
      I looked and couldn't find a web-site for Mikuni, but I have no problem taking your word for it, that is the function of the screw. What I do know is the service manual is pretty weak. All it says about those screws is they're set at the factory and don't mess with them as you'll never get them back to factory settings. Also, did you know you can kick over the engine on the GS1000! News to me, I know that because it says so in the service manual, yes page 8-3 third sentence.
      Did I say I thought the service manual was weak?
      But, one thing I don't fully understand, and this is going in a different direction. It's still GS1000 carb related though. And that concerns sync'ing. I have read before that cylinders 2&3 are supposed to be sync'd at a different level than 1&4. Fig 8-32 shows it and the narrative is last paragraph on the previous page. OK, I understand that, my question is how do you compensate for those different levels if you do use a different sync tool? A non suzuki sync tool without those steel balls, how do you compensate for half a steel ball's difference on analog needle sync tools? All the pic's I've seen from folks here show all carbs sync'd to the same exact levels. Just had to ask as I've been thinking about that for the longest time.
      sigpic
      Steve
      "The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page." :cool:
      _________________
      '79 GS1000EN
      '82 GS1100EZ

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        #18
        It is something to do with the crossover in the exhaust, if you don't have that anymore set them all even. I have tried with them slightly higher, and with them all the same, cannot tell the difference in how the bike runs. Maybe it's one of those things that will affect gas mileage by one percent or so but otherwise it doesn't matter at all?

        I don't know.
        http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

        Life is too short to ride an L.

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          #19
          Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
          It is something to do with the crossover in the exhaust, if you don't have that anymore set them all even. I have tried with them slightly higher, and with them all the same, cannot tell the difference in how the bike runs. Maybe it's one of those things that will affect gas mileage by one percent or so but otherwise it doesn't matter at all?

          I don't know.
          Ah, that didn't cross my mind but makes sense. I thought it might have had something to do with the middle two cylinders running somewhat hotter because of their location. But with the two center cylinder balls being lower I would think that would be a leaner condition, or do I have this backwards?
          sigpic
          Steve
          "The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page." :cool:
          _________________
          '79 GS1000EN
          '82 GS1100EZ

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            #20
            Not richer or leaner, just doing more or less of the work.
            http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

            Life is too short to ride an L.

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