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    The same old Pods question

    I'm sure you've all heard this one before, but I want to be sure before I spend any more of my money.

    I had some issues with lean mixture a while back which turned out to be float related. No big deal to fix, but I discovered in the process that my bike's airbox is effectively ruined. It's been cut into pieces and glued back together by the previous owner. I find this both aesthetically displeasing, and irritatingly half-a$$ed.

    Looking into a new air box yielded many relatively inexpensive replacements but with little in the way of aesthetic improvement, and lots in the way of installation headaches. The purists will hate this, but after some consideration I decided to go with pods if for no other reason than the ease of installation/maintenance.

    I have gotten myself a pair of K&N RC-1820 filters and plan on re-jetting to compensate for the additional flow. The general consensus from my gear head buddies as well as the forums/YouTube videos I can find is that I should go up by 1 jet size on the Mains, and leave the pilots as is. Am I barking up the wrong tree or is this reasonable? Will I need to re-shim the needle or does the factory setting handle this ok?

    Your feedback is much appreciated.

    Background:
    1980 GS450L Bone stock with 4500 miles on it.

    #2
    You are going to have to go up farther than one step on the main. More like three, but I'm not sure. Shimming the needles is highly recommended also. To raise the needle you need to reduce the thickness of the spacer on top of the clip. Good luck.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

    Comment


      #3
      Awesome. Thanks for the feedback. I'm going to pick up some 117.5s and some 120s to start, and see where that gets me.

      The one thing I don't have is a Circlip tool for the needle retention clip inside the slide. They don't have any that will get deep enough at autozone. Thoughts?

      I'm also open to suggestions on reputable jets dealers. So far i've searched JetsRus and JPCycle. Anyone with good advice on reputable dealers would be a friend of mine.

      thanks
      mike

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by MOC View Post
        Awesome. Thanks for the feedback. I'm going to pick up some 117.5s and some 120s to start, and see where that gets me.

        The one thing I don't have is a Circlip tool for the needle retention clip inside the slide. They don't have any that will get deep enough at autozone. Thoughts?

        I'm also open to suggestions on reputable jets dealers. So far i've searched JetsRus and JPCycle. Anyone with good advice on reputable dealers would be a friend of mine.

        thanks
        mike
        Grind the tips down on a long set of needle nose pliers.


        Z1 is the best place for jets.
        http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

        Life is too short to ride an L.

        Comment


          #5
          Z1 Enterprises sells jets and a set of Motion Pro circlip pliers that will reach down into the slide. Check the carb rebuild tutorial in my signature for info on how to raise the needles.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

          Comment


            #6
            Save yourself some aggravation and get a jet kit made for pods. Removing the airbox makes a big difference and just changing the main jets and the needle position won't be adequate.

            Comment


              #7
              Develop a great plan for boosting your motorcycle’s performance by using our convenient, reliable motorcycle carburetor Jet Kits available online. Once you see these kits in action, it will become clear why they’re the products that started the Dynojet fuel tuning legacy. They’ll effortlessly increase power and smoothness throughout the entire rev range. Whether your bike is stock, heavily modified, or created for high-speed racing, our Jet Kits can tune your air/fuel ratio to perfection. Not only will our motorcycle Jet Kits drastically improve your performance, but they’ll also show immediate results. With an increased power output of 5-8% and a fully adjustable design, our kits are the perfect companions to any rider. Expand your vehicle’s performance capabilities today with them.


              You will be able to get it to run without the Dynojet kit but it won't lose a stumble off idle.
              Looks like part # 3113
              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

              Comment


                #8
                Alas, the kit you describe below doesn't fit my bike, per the recommendation of the guys at dynojet. I called and asked, mostly because that kit is for an 83 and mine is an 80. The guy who engineers their kits said it won't work, and I'm not about to blow 90 bucks on an experiment. So it looks like i'm back at square 1.

                regarding rejetting on my own, i called Z1 to see if they carry what i'm looking for, and they don't. they have plenty of the "Large Round" Mikuni jets, but my bike has the Small round type:


                Yes, i'm sure. Head diameter is 6 mm, overall is about 9mm.

                the only distributor i've been able to find who actually sell "Small Round" miknuni jets in the range i'm looking for is JetsRus.com. To make the shipping worthwhile i'm going to go for a pair of every size from 120 to 130 and just goof around with it.

                The guy at Dynojet said i should shim my needle up between 20 and 40 thousandths, which i believe is 1 or 2 shims, or 1 step on the needle. beyond that, i'm just going to have to goof with the jets and needle, and fine tune the idle circuit to get it right. anybody that's done this on a 450L before, i would greatly appreciate any insight you have for me.

                thanks fellas.

                Comment


                  #9
                  without the needle change u will forever chase a flat spot and poor running,ask me how i know.
                  The needle change is a must,the pilot won't change the main will 3 sizes to start.
                  there is no other way.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Ok, so general consensus is at least 3 steps up on the main jets, leave pilots as is but adjust using the highest idle method. shim up the needle to compensate in the mid range.

                    This is my plan so far:

                    1 - Get a bunch of "Small Round" jets in sizes from 122.5- 130
                    2 - Get Snapring Pliers
                    3 - Start at 122.5 with the needles raised by 1 step

                    4 - adjust the pilots using the highest idle method, check plugs for fouling/ash.
                    5 - increase to 1/2 throttle and repeat, adjust the needle up/down as necessary to keep everything kosher.
                    6 - WOT test, which will probably have to happen on the road, adjust the mains as necessary
                    7 - retest at idle and 1/2 throttle to ensure nothing has changed

                    am i missing anything? is this reasonable. My plan is to do a full write up of this project as I go. your help is much appreciated, and anything you might add to keep me out of the weeds would be awesome. thanks

                    Comment


                      #11
                      All your plug chops and testing should happen on the road. You need to see how the engine and plugs react under load, not just free spinning in neutral.

                      Also, are your carbs CV or VM?

                      CV carbs tune from main down to pilot, so your sequencing will change.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        So, given the fact that i've got CV carbs, i would need to reverse my steps then?

                        please forgive my ignorance. part of why i bought this bike is to tinker with and i'm looking forward to a long, cold, but not boring winter.

                        many thanks

                        Comment


                          #13
                          as long as u have the right needles yup.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            airbox

                            ok,

                            I tried the whole pod thing. went up 3 sizes on the pilots and started 20% bigger on the mains and went 3 sizes up from there (1981 GS650G). used stupid emgo pods, then uni's. now i'm back to riding on the stock setup with the airbox. spend the $'s on the stock setup, or spend the money on dynojet that MIGHT work. good luck dude

                            Comment


                              #15
                              dynajet AWAYS works....
                              just depends on the installer

                              Comment

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