Straight pipes with baffles (and I killed Santa).

[1_v8_merc]

Those are basically harley baffles for drag pipes.
(as advertised all over ebay)

I really have no point, I'm just saying, lol.

[john82q]

I also assume there's no drilling the extractor out,

Go buy a very small cold chisel like 4mm across, and get volient on the extractor with it and a hammer, you might be able to smash it it up into little bits.

if the broken up part is beneth the surface drill down to it, with a squared off bit.

[Mr. Sinister]

So I thought quite a bit about this. I can probably use a left hand drill bit on the 2 broken bolts, and I was thinking an 8mm diamond hole saw on the one with the extractor in it. Since the bolt is 8mm, it should cut right around the outside where the extractor isn't. Then some work with taps and dies to clean the hole back up.

[BentRod]

I guess my first question is why was teh exhaust held on with bolts? they are supposed to be on threaded studs and secured with a nut.

Extractors are evil most of the time, and I second the recommendation to smash it in to bits. As for the diamond hole saw, be careful. Think you can line that one up perfectly? The aluminum head will be a lot softer than the steel bolt AND if you get any aluminum on the diamond cutting surface, it will stick to the surface of the hole saw, loading it, and it will not cut anymore. Take it from the expert on this one.. it is likely to ruin your saw, and make a mess of the head.

smash out the extractor (being careful not to mash the threads), and then use a small drill, say 3mm, then heat it up and hammer a 1/8 rod down the hole. let it all cool and use the rod to pull out the bolt.

[Mr. Sinister]

I guess my first question is why was teh exhaust held on with bolts? they are supposed to be on threaded studs and secured with a nut.

Extractors are evil most of the time, and I second the recommendation to smash it in to bits. As for the diamond hole saw, be careful. Think you can line that one up perfectly? The aluminum head will be a lot softer than the steel bolt AND if you get any aluminum on the diamond cutting surface, it will stick to the surface of the hole saw, loading it, and it will not cut anymore. Take it from the expert on this one.. it is likely to ruin your saw, and make a mess of the head.

smash out the extractor (being careful not to mash the threads), and then use a small drill, say 3mm, then heat it up and hammer a 1/8 rod down the hole. let it all cool and use the rod to pull out the bolt.

Good question, and I was wondering the same.

Extractors certainly have not won my praise.
Given the spot where I have to work, I don't see many other options beyond the hole saw. I figured to go slow, and pull it out every few mm to clean the tip. A very narrow chisel might get in there, but the extractor is broken off below the surface of the head. If I mess the hole up or get it off center, so be it. There appears to be enough material to handle it, and it's not like it's critical that the bolt goes in perfectly. I just need it to apply some clamping force to the exhaust flange. I'm even considering welding a stud to what's left in the bolt hole. I mean if I exerted enough force to shear (twisting force, not lateral force) a hardened extractor, I don't think that bolt is coming out. Even if it did, it's probably bringing the aluminum threads out with it. Had the extractor not broken off, I could left hand drill it. But if a frog had wings......

I guess I just can't see smashing the extractor. There is little room to work here. If the motor were on a stand, maybe. This is the lower bolt on the right side port. You need a sturdy punch and a heavy hammer due to the hardness of the materials, but you're working around delicate aluminum. One slip and you could be in a lot of trouble.
I would think heating the bolt enough to do anything is going to damage the aluminum head.

[Mr. Sinister]

Drilled out the left side bolts, and retapped the holes back to original size. Pretty sure the bolts aren't going to go in perfectly straight, but screw it.
The extractor isn't coming out for anything. So, drilled the hole out down to the extractor, and tapped the hole to original size. There's 2 whole threads there, but fortunately, the one good bolt hole is also on that side, so I can crank that one down.
Also fabbed and installed the baffles. Got some 7/8" pipe, and 1 1/4" collars with 1/4-20 cap screws. Cut the 7/8" pipe into 2 5" pieces. Drilled 10 1/4" holes in the pipe, wrapped them with header wrap, stuffed them with Chore Boy, and installed them in the exhaust pipe. I put the wrap on thick enough to make the baffles fit snugly.
This may actually be more restrictive than stock, but it won't annoy the sound police. If it's too quiet, I can pull some of the Chore Boy out. I can blow through them, but there's definitely some resistance.
Still have to wrap the exhaust pipes, then attempt to reinstall them. Probably do that Friday. Pray for me!!

[Mr. Sinister]

SO it appears surgery was successful!!
Everything pulls up snug, and there's no exhaust leaks. Wrapped my pipes and installed my baffles too. Sounds pretty good!! Once my video uploads, I'll share it.

[Mr. Sinister]

Here you go:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tu7FGovo_TQ&feature=plcp

[Mr. Sinister]

Bike feels pretty good. Took it on an hour ride the other day.
My gut tells me low end is actually slightly improved, but mid and top end may have suffered a tiny bit. It could be in my head, since it's louder and vibrates a little more.
Idle is still spot on, and the choke still works exactly how it should. Haven't checked the plugs yet.
So next "performance" mod will be pods. I can compensate for the pipes if needed, then.
Being an 81, I'm only seeing the 6 Sigma kit.........