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Drilling out an adjustment screw plug

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    Drilling out an adjustment screw plug

    Tearing down my carbs for a cleaning dip and I've run into this problem: There is a plug (I assume this is what it is based on the pictures provided by Flaming Chainsaws' tutorial) that needs drilled out.

    1. Recommendations on the best way to do this? Anyway I can remove this plug without drilling?

    2. Why is this plug here? Will I need to replace it when done?

    3. I assume dipping the carb body with this in place is a bad idea due to the o-ring on the adjustment screw. Am I correct?

    Thanks for your help!

    Jeremy

    #2
    Just take a 1/8 or so bit, twist it in gently until it gets stuck, pull sideways to pry the plug off. You don't need to replace it. Pretty easy.
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

    Life is too short to ride an L.

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      #3
      Use a tack or small nail and tap it into the center

      It should deform the plug enough so you can pry it out
      1978 GS 1000 (since new)
      1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
      1978 GS 1000 (parts)
      1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
      1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
      1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
      2007 DRz 400S
      1999 ATK 490ES
      1994 DR 350SES

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        #4
        1) Either of the above.
        You dont really want to "drill it out".
        More like you want to find a way to "pull it out" or "pry it out".

        2) Why is it there? So manufacture could claim it was not a user adjustment.

        3) Yes, you want to remove the plug so can remeve the adjustment needle and its o ring.
        No real need to replace it.


        .
        Last edited by Redman; 01-18-2013, 08:41 PM.
        http://webpages.charter.net/ddvrnr/GS850_1100_Emblems.jpg
        Had 850G for 14 years. Now have GK since 2005.
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        Comment


          #5
          Hi,

          Have a look see....

          GS450 Carb Rebuild Guide

          (Mr. Flaming Chainsaws)

          Starting on page 13 of the guide below you will find instructions for removing the idle mixture screw (pilot screw) cap...

          Mikuni BS(CV) Carburetor Rebuild Tutorial
          (Mr. Nessism)


          Thank you for your indulgence,

          BassCliff

          Comment


            #6
            I actually drilled them out as per the carb rebuilt .pdf on Cliff's website. Was very easy, but I understand how easy it would be to screw up the brass underneath. Just not the depth of whatever you get in there so you do not deform the screw below.

            Comment


              #7
              The aluminum plug is about 2-3 mm thick, then there is a bit of a gap, about 3-4 mm, then the mixture screw. Use a modest drill bit (the sharper, the better) at a slow speed, it will tend to 'bite' because of the slow speed, just let it stop the drill, then lever the plug out of place.

              No need to put them back, you may want to adjust your mixture from time to time.

              They were there because the EPA dictated cleaner-burning bikes, so the carbs were pre-set at the factory, then sealed. For several years, it was illegal to remove them and make adjustments.

              .
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              Comment


                #8
                Left hand

                drill bits will often bring them out used gently and reduce the risk of driving the adjustment screw in.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Steve View Post
                  For several years, it was illegal to remove them and make adjustments.

                  .
                  I bet it still is illegal.
                  http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                  Life is too short to ride an L.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Steve View Post
                    The aluminum plug is about 2-3 mm thick, then there is a bit of a gap, about 3-4 mm, then the mixture screw. Use a modest drill bit (the sharper, the better) at a slow speed, it will tend to 'bite' because of the slow speed, just let it stop the drill, then lever the plug out of place.

                    No need to put them back, you may want to adjust your mixture from time to time.

                    They were there because the EPA dictated cleaner-burning bikes, so the carbs were pre-set at the factory, then sealed. For several years, it was illegal to remove them and make adjustments.

                    .
                    Thanks Steve: Now I can add that to my list of laws I broke!!!(LOL)
                    81 gs 1100 E One owner,Me.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      carefully drill the plug as suggested here. Grind the sharp tip off of a wood screw. Screw it in, pull screw/plug with claw hammer. At the dealership, we did so many carb jobs, the tech's had a wood screw brazed to a dent puller for this purpose.
                      Current Rides: 82 GS1100E, 00 Triumph 955 Speed Triple:twistedevil:, 03 Kawasaki ZRX1200, 01 Honda GL1800, '15 Kawasaki 1000 Versys
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                      Work in progress: 78 GS1000, unknown year GS1100ES

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