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Airbox tips? Where to start?

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    #16
    Originally posted by littleroot View Post
    I wondered about this - worried it was Mickey Mouse but if they are proven I am game. Thanks!
    As long as you ensure the hole in the fitting is at least as big as the hole in the stock size fuel line you shouldn't have any problems with impeding the gas flow. Just make sure it's clamped good so it doesn't suck any air or have any leaks, and make sure you don't have any kinks in your fuel line. You can save yourself the hassle of replacing the fuel line until the time you pull off the carbs, unless you feel you really need to do that.
    sigpic
    Steve
    "The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page." :cool:
    _________________
    '79 GS1000EN
    '82 GS1100EZ

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      #17
      Originally posted by hjfisk View Post
      In order to remove the air box you first need to remove the carbs. And if you remove the carbs it is easy to replace the fuel line. So just remove the carbs and replace the fuel line then replace the carbs. Leave the air box in place and you won't have to rejet. It is a tight squeeze to get the carbs in and out, really a PIA but everyone one here with that bike that does there own maintenance has done it. Good Luck
      If you proceed to go this route you will get a real education on anger management!
      sigpic
      Steve
      "The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page." :cool:
      _________________
      '79 GS1000EN
      '82 GS1100EZ

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        #18
        Originally posted by sedelen View Post
        If you proceed to go this route you will get a real education on anger management!
        LOL. I hope to have my other bike running first so I can have something to relieve the stress.

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          #19
          Take the bolts out of the battery box. It isnt a lot of room but as you wll see, every little bit helps. All of this is assuming that your manifolds & carb boots arent as hard as a rock. If they are replace them or leave it alone

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            #20
            Another good reason to use the stock setup: Motion Pro junk



            I was lucky it was not in there very tight and was able to use an easy out


            OOPS! Wrong thread!

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              #21
              If both sets of carb boots are the originals, this is the time to change those out. Hard, cracked boots will make syncing a nitemare. I would just pull the carbs, install new rubber boots and install a high quality fuel line. They rarely go bad even for years. I just replaced mine and it was 13 years old and still felixable and soft. You don't really a clamp at the fuel T if the hose is very tight when you push it on, there is no pressure on the line. Though since I don't have to replace my fuel line that often, I use a screw clamp for insurance.
              sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
              1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
              2015 CAN AM RTS


              Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

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