Replacement air inlets for syncing?

[Agemax]

Wait, you do what? Connect 1 and 4, and also 2 and 3? Why?

it balances out the pulses between cylinders. makes for a smoother idle

[littleroot]

it balances out the pulses between cylinders. makes for a smoother idle

oooh. Daddy like

[Steve]

I heard someone speak of replacing the manifold vacuum inlets bolts with adapters from Kawasaki(?) which can use a simple plugs/covers when you are not syncing your carbs. This would be very handy. Anyone use these and know where I should get them, and maybe even know the part numbers?

This would be for a 80GS1100E and 82GS1100GL (I assume they would be the same).

Thanks,
-Bob

Do yourself (and your bike) a favor and save your money.

I did that several years ago on my Kawasaki and enjoyed it immensely. I installed a set on my 850 last year, prepared to enjoy that, too. However, the joy was very short-lived. Evidently my carbs are not yet perfectly tuned, because they tend to hiccup a bit while warming up. Seems that those little hiccups will blow the rubber caps off the adapters, and you may not even notice. At least not until you stop a few miles down the road, look down at the engine and notice some bare brass where you should be seeing a rubber cap.

A quick stop at an auto parts store netted an assortment kit of rubber caps, most of which are the wrong size (of course). I installed the size that seemed to fit best, but it was also ejected in short order. I crammed on the next size smaller, and it held until I could get back to my tool box and put the stock plugs back in.

Yes, it's a hassle getting those plugs in and out to sync the carbs, but I will gladly live with that, rather than chance losing another rubber cap.

.

[littleroot]

Do yourself (and your bike) a favor and save your money.

I did that several years ago on my Kawasaki and enjoyed it immensely. I installed a set on my 850 last year, prepared to enjoy that, too. However, the joy was very short-lived. Evidently my carbs are not yet perfectly tuned, because they tend to hiccup a bit while warming up. Seems that those little hiccups will blow the rubber caps off the adapters, and you may not even notice. At least not until you stop a few miles down the road, look down at the engine and notice some bare brass where you should be seeing a rubber cap.

A quick stop at an auto parts store netted an assortment kit of rubber caps, most of which are the wrong size (of course). I installed the size that seemed to fit best, but it was also ejected in short order. I crammed on the next size smaller, and it held until I could get back to my tool box and put the stock plugs back in.

Yes, it's a hassel getting those plugs in and out to sync the carbs, but I will gladly live with that, rather than chance losing another rubber cap.

.

Wow

Good info, thanks for sharing as I was already feeling a bit wary of the caps staying on. The picture on the site did not give me a lot of confidence and I'll inspect closely when they arrive.

OldVet66's configuration (above) with some good clamps could be a solution. Or use clamps on the caps which come with the adapters.

But if nothing else at least I will have brass adapters instead of the plastic ones which came with the carbtune.

-Bob

[OldVet66]

These help, hoses or caps soften up with heat and tend to leak. http://www.amazon.com/Spring-Loaded-.../dp/B005AKDRZU

That's why I said this. When the caps and hoses get hot behind the motor, they become very soft and don't hold on well at all. I don't remember the exact size of the clamps I used but I believe they are 5 or 6MM.

[Steve]

But if nothing else at least I will have brass adapters instead of the plastic ones which came with the carbtune.

For about half the money, get this adapter set and install them only when you want to sync the carbs.

Yes, it's still the hassle of installing them every time, but they are brass and don't have caps that will blow off.

.

[Agemax]

i got to admit, i used to have the permanent adapters fitted with 1+4 & 2+3 joined together. it did smooth out the idle a bit but i got fed up with the pipes popping off.

you really need barbed adapters and tight clamps to avoid this happening

[OldVet66]

I was way off on the clamp size. My memory for things like that is shot. I would estimate 3mm would be about perfect on the Z1 parts. My clamps weren't very tight so I replaced them with 4" black nylon cable tie locks. They won't be coming off or leaking until they are cut off.

[Agemax]

I was way off on the clamp size. My memory for things like that is shot. I would estimate 3mm would be about perfect on the Z1 parts. My clamps weren't very tight so I replaced them with 4" black nylon cable tie locks. They won't be coming off or leaking until they are cut off.

i think you mean 8mm... 5mm adapter + 5mm i/d pipe,say 1.5mm wall thickness = 8mm diameter clamp size

[OldVet66]

I'm thinking I'm having a bad day. The 8mm spring steel clamps I have may have stretched out when I put them on, they weren't tight enough at all for the 4mm silicon vacuum line I have on the Z1 adapters. Perhaps the double wire stainless steel spring clamps would work better because there is not a lot of room from the flair to the nut on the adapter to get good compression on the line. The silicon line really compresses a lot more than the regular vacuum line, so I believe a smaller spring clamp will be necessary. I'll get a bag of assorted double wire spring clamps some day and figure it out. Right now the tie lock is one size fits all. It is only about 3mm wide so it fits nicely between the flair and the nut and does a real nice job. Boost controller.com recommends 3mm clamps for 3mm, 3.5mm and 4mm ID vacuum line (I'm assuming they are talking abut silicon vacuum line).

[Agemax]

I'm thinking I'm having a bad day. The 8mm spring steel clamps I have may have stretched out when I put them on, they weren't tight enough at all for the 4mm silicon vacuum line I have on the Z1 adapters. Perhaps the double wire stainless steel spring clamps would work better because there is not a lot of room from the flair to the nut on the adapter to get good compression on the line. The silicon line really compresses a lot more than the regular vacuum line, so I believe a smaller spring clamp will be necessary. I'll get a bag of assorted double wire spring clamps some day and figure it out. Right now the tie lock is one size fits all. It is only about 3mm wide so it fits nicely between the flair and the nut and does a real nice job.

i got some of these the other day..........

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290674237933?var=590056120938&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

the 7.35-8.3mm clips are perfect for silicon pipe on the overflow tubes

[OldVet66]

That's the type of clamp that would work, do you think they would be tight enough for the silicon line when it gets real squishy from the heat up near the motor?

[bwringer]

Silicone tubing is not compatible with gasoline or gasoline vapor. It's not necessarily softening from the heat,; it's softening from exposure to gasoline.

If you're going to install tubing here, you should use tubing that's actually heat and fuel resistant.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#5034kac/=lyjxb9

Like Steve, I've also tried leaving adapters installed, but I've also found that it can be hard to keep the caps in place. They seem to deteriorate rapidly.

I used to have a Kawasaki that had capped fittings on the intakes, and found that the caps required replacement every few years.

Screws are much more reliable.

[OldVet66]

I have no doubt the fuel is affecting the silicon line I am using, but these lines are into the second year of service and aside from getting a little loose at the barb they are in good shape. I will continue to look for a better hose, but so far Napa 4MM silicon vacuum line is far superior to any other type of line I have used and also easily replaceable. In this case it appears to be the amount of time and fuel involved. I have spares in my tool kit and am dogging these lines to see just how long they will last. The more standard rubber vacuum line fails rapidly. This looks like it might be the right stuff: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...roducts_id=300

[nejeff]

http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDet...item=MP08-0219

I had no idea these were available! I'll be placing my order ASAP. I own too damn many GS's now and this looks like a real time saver! On my XS1100 it had the ports already in the boot and it was so much quicker and easier to sync the carbs but as has been said before a good clamp is needed to keep the cap on