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I just rebuilt my carbs uppd my jets to 110s and raised my needles 1 step do to adding pods. This is the first time ive heard the bike run ever and the number 1 carb sucks way more air than the other carbs. The left side exhaust also smells like gas. What may I have screwed up when building the carbs or is it engine related. The cylinder has 140 lbs compression.
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I know I still need to tune adjust the carbs and probably needles but I dont want to start tuning it with this problem -
#1 carb being the extreme left as you sit on bike???? OK, how do you know it " sucks way more air" ? at same time you smell unburned fuel on this side. Did you check for spark on all plugs?1981 gs650L
"We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben FranklinComment
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Yes farthest left cylinder. The carb is much louder than the rest also if you place your hand onto the carb inlet and compare it to the rest it is very noticable. Yes there is spark. I have no clue why it is so much different than the restComment
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Don't do anything until you adjust your valves. The GS valves get tighter with wear and will affect everything if some are too tight. Start with your bottom pilot fuel screws at 3/4 turn out from lightly seated and your side air screws at 1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated. If your pilot fuel screws stick up into the throat of the carbs, someone has applied too much pressure to the screws ruining that carb body. It can still be used, but getting it to meter properly is a bear if not impossible. Lightly seated those bottom screws should show the tips of the taper just visible below the hole.Last edited by OldVet66; 03-31-2013, 03:52 PM.'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.
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Vac sync the carbs yet???MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.Comment
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No but I adjusted the screw to see if it made a change and it did notComment
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What screw? You do all 4 at the same time with guages set up. you use the jam nut and set screw arrangement at the back of the carb bodies. As you change one it effects the rest and you keep fine tuning till all 4 are as close as possible to reading the same vacuum on the guages.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.Comment
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I readjusted the throttle slide adjustments and it fixed it. Thanks for the suggestions. Now need a sync gaugeComment
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Yes..you can "ear tune" them to get them relatively close, but the guages will tell the whole story. I suggest you got to Bikecliffs website and open up the GS 1000E service manual and read section 8.
Note that as you adjust one, the RPMs will change, the idle will need readjusted.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.Comment
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