.png "Powered by vBulletin")
Hi guys
Finally got the bike running again - needed new starter motor brushes and now its like a whole new bike. also adjusted the valves, and cleaned/replaced Orings in the carbs. I vacuum synced yesterday and it seemed like it took a long time for the bike to be able to maintain an idle without the RPM gradually slowing down, eventually ending in sputtering and death. So I would bump the idle speed up a bit to compensate, which worked fine until the bike got more warmed up (about 5 minutes of running) and then the idle speed started climbing toward 2500-3000. Then I lowered the idle speed just bit and it seemed to even out at 1000-1200 RPM and held steadily. However, with a throttle blip it takes longer than it used to to return to idle. Engine braking seems to not be as strong either.
So basically:
--takes a while to get warmed up enough to maintain a steady idle without slowly tapering off and dying
--slower than usual to return to idle
--this is after complete dissassembly / rebuilding carbs and adjusting valves
Some browsing on some posts here seem to suggest that this is either due to a overly lean mixture or intake boot leak. The mixture may very well be the cause, as I did remove the pilot screw for cleaning and I had the screws set at whatever was suggested in the guide on Bikecliff's site for BS carbs (1.5 or 2.5 turns out I think?). Haven't tried to adjust this yet, although I found a good post by koolaid kid on a technique for this.
On the other hand, it could be intake boots, correct? The intake boots seemed supple and fairly soft. I would have changed them when the carbs were out anyway just to be sure, but the bolts just would not come loose (common problem on this bike I am finding). Several got stripped by my impact wrench before I stopped trying.
Do these symptoms sound like they could be from the mixture, or do they definitely describe an intake leak? Is there a way to differentiate the two (without spraying flammable stuff around the intakes while its running, i heard this is bad practice)?
and if I do enrichen the idle mixture, and these problems go away, do I still need to change the boots? I know that the recommendation is to just change them if there is any doubt. but its going to be a big PITA. if I can put it off for a little while, and enjoy the bike for a few weeks after having it not running for 5 months..... that would be nice.
Finally got the bike running again - needed new starter motor brushes and now its like a whole new bike. also adjusted the valves, and cleaned/replaced Orings in the carbs. I vacuum synced yesterday and it seemed like it took a long time for the bike to be able to maintain an idle without the RPM gradually slowing down, eventually ending in sputtering and death. So I would bump the idle speed up a bit to compensate, which worked fine until the bike got more warmed up (about 5 minutes of running) and then the idle speed started climbing toward 2500-3000. Then I lowered the idle speed just bit and it seemed to even out at 1000-1200 RPM and held steadily. However, with a throttle blip it takes longer than it used to to return to idle. Engine braking seems to not be as strong either.
So basically:
--takes a while to get warmed up enough to maintain a steady idle without slowly tapering off and dying
--slower than usual to return to idle
--this is after complete dissassembly / rebuilding carbs and adjusting valves
Some browsing on some posts here seem to suggest that this is either due to a overly lean mixture or intake boot leak. The mixture may very well be the cause, as I did remove the pilot screw for cleaning and I had the screws set at whatever was suggested in the guide on Bikecliff's site for BS carbs (1.5 or 2.5 turns out I think?). Haven't tried to adjust this yet, although I found a good post by koolaid kid on a technique for this.
On the other hand, it could be intake boots, correct? The intake boots seemed supple and fairly soft. I would have changed them when the carbs were out anyway just to be sure, but the bolts just would not come loose (common problem on this bike I am finding). Several got stripped by my impact wrench before I stopped trying.
Do these symptoms sound like they could be from the mixture, or do they definitely describe an intake leak? Is there a way to differentiate the two (without spraying flammable stuff around the intakes while its running, i heard this is bad practice)?
and if I do enrichen the idle mixture, and these problems go away, do I still need to change the boots? I know that the recommendation is to just change them if there is any doubt. but its going to be a big PITA. if I can put it off for a little while, and enjoy the bike for a few weeks after having it not running for 5 months..... that would be nice.
Comment