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81 gs750e - lots of choke needed until warm

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    81 gs750e - lots of choke needed until warm

    Hey guys

    Been dealing with this for a while and wondering if there is something else occurring. Once my engine is warmed up, idles great and runs like a champ.

    But. A cold start I have to choke and then ease of choke and just sit with throttle for a couple off minutes until warm.

    I dd recently rebuild and jet, but this problem persists. Maybe not a problem at all? Unsure. Any thoughts would be great.

    Mixture screws are approx 2 3/4 turns out. Stock needle because dynojets would run no matter my adjustments.

    #2
    *wouldnt run

    Comment


      #3
      Cold engines require more fuel to run, so it's totally normal to need to have the choke on for the first few minutes. The engine will idle high with the choke on, that's normal as well.

      You should be able to ride away with the choke partially on, if all is well with the engine and its carburetion.

      And in case you're trying to mentally picture what's going on, it's helpful to know that these carburetors don't use the traditional "choke" mechanism. It's more like an enrichener that just dumps a bunch of fuel into the intake when the choke lever is pulled.
      Charles
      --
      1979 Suzuki GS850G

      Read BassCliff's GSR Greeting and Mega-Welcome!

      Comment


        #5
        Originally posted by tc80211 View Post
        Hey guys

        Been dealing with this for a while and wondering ....

        I dd recently rebuild and jet, but this problem persists. Maybe not a problem at all? Unsure. Any thoughts would be great.

        Mixture screws are approx 2 3/4 turns out. Stock needle because dynojets would run no matter my adjustments.
        Tell us more about your "rebuild and jet". did you read and follow the carb cleaning tutorial? My bike is pretty coldblooded, but I start and then leave "choke" on about 1/4 and take off after maybe 30 seconds; choke fully off in two minutes
        1981 gs650L

        "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

        Comment


          #6
          Thanks guys!

          I did a full carb breakdown and pinesol dip for 24hrs. It was labor intensive to ensure I cleaned the carbs as needed, but the end result was amazing. Look almost new. Using the stage 3 dynojet kit, 4 carb rebuild kits and oem size metric washer kit I reassembled the carbs following BikeCliffs instructions http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/...d_Tutorial.pdf

          I am using stock exhaust and pod filters so went for the 124 jet instead of the 130...

          I initially used the dynojet needles and could not find a happy place with air/fuel misture screw to get the bike to behave... Switched back to stock needle and arrived at 2 3/4 turns out on mixture screw... however, this was my first time playing with carbs, ever... so I have been on here and every resource possible to try and learn about what is happening... Now when the bike is warmed up it runs like a champ, power is much improved and throttle resonse is great. Solid up to and over 100mph. The only remaining peice is cold starts and I believe this newest resource could be the key to getting my mixture as dialed in as possible... Also, I need to sync. I dont have any hesitation on acceleration and once the bike is warm and idling, it stays put, no bounce... but still a vaccuum sync would ensure all is well in that department.

          Comment


            #7
            Take the idle mixture screws out a quarter turn at a time until you find a happy spot.
            The DJ needle would not work? Weird! Makes me think there is something wrong or you got a fake DJ kit. (They are out there)
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

            Comment


              #8
              Bought direct from dynojet. Thats not to say I couldnt have used different needle positions... sure, but the instructions it came with didnt indicate what other positions to try based on lean/richness... I'll give the mixture screw more attention and try to get it further dialed in. Thanks all!

              Comment


                #9
                Originally posted by tc80211 View Post
                Hey guys

                Been dealing with this for a while and wondering if there is something else occurring. Once my engine is warmed up, idles great and runs like a champ.

                But. A cold start I have to choke and then ease of choke and just sit with throttle for a couple off minutes until warm.

                I dd recently rebuild and jet, but this problem persists. Maybe not a problem at all? Unsure. Any thoughts would be great.

                Mixture screws are approx 2 3/4 turns out. Stock needle because dynojets would run no matter my adjustments.
                Sound normal to me, my 750 has been cold natured from day one.
                sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
                1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
                2015 CAN AM RTS


                Stuff I've done to my bike 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

                Comment

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