Running on 3 ?

[sedelen]

Damn, those screws that hold the intake rubbers on are really tight, so much so that I've chewed up 4 of them all on the middle two cylinders
Any tips on getting them out ? Is it a case of a hacksaw and cutting a slot head into them ?
Those o ring rubbers are now circles of brittle plastic, they just snapped out in pieces guess that's what 32 years of use does, just ordered some new ones from Robinsons Foundary, he said they'll be here tomorrow
Just got to clean the carbs properly now

Here are some of the common remedies for those buggered up screws.
I'm assuming your inner two cylinders have all four screws rounded out.
Some have used needle nosed vice grips.
You could try a impact driver if it will grip the Phillips slot.
Cut a slot in it and again impact driver.

This is what works with me for those screws.
Tap the side of the screw with a sharp wood chisel in the direction you want the screw to turn.
If you can get one off of each boot, you can usually rotate the boot in the direction you want the screw to turn to loosen the remaining screw.

Replace those screws with Allen's and put some anti-seize on the threads.

[Staninator]

Damn, those screws that hold the intake rubbers on are really tight, so much so that I've chewed up 4 of them all on the middle two cylinders
Any tips on getting them out ? Is it a case of a hacksaw and cutting a slot head into them ?
Those o ring rubbers are now circles of brittle plastic, they just snapped out in pieces guess that's what 32 years of use does, just ordered some new ones from Robinsons Foundary, he said they'll be here tomorrow
Just got to clean the carbs properly now

If cutting into them doesn't work, your best option will by vice clamp pliers. Do it slowly, you don't want to break the heads off. That's exactly what just happened to me when attempting to remove my valve head cover... Now I can't touch it. For replacement screws get yourself some M6x16mm allen head screws for the intake rubbers. Just order from cycleorings.com as you will have the best you can get for the price. I'm not sure if he ships overseas but maybe you'll be able to make some type of special arrangement.

[Agemax]

If cutting into them doesn't work, your best option will by vice clamp pliers. Do it slowly, you don't want to break the heads off. That's exactly what just happened to me when attempting to remove my valve head cover... Now I can't touch it. For replacement screws get yourself some M6x16mm allen head screws for the intake rubbers. Just order from cycleorings.com as you will have the best you can get for the price. I'm not sure if he ships overseas but maybe you'll be able to make some type of special arrangement.

there are plenty of places in the UK to get S/S allen head screws, rather than get them shipped from abroad.

[Staninator]

there are plenty of places in the UK to get S/S allen head screws, rather than get them shipped from abroad.

I'm talking about the whole kit brother. Not just the screws... I'm sure there is definitely a place in the UK that would sell hardware for a killer price.

[Par6]

Here are some of the common remedies for those buggered up screws.
I'm assuming your inner two cylinders have all four screws rounded out.
Some have used needle nosed vice grips.
You could try a impact driver if it will grip the Phillips slot.
Cut a slot in it and again impact driver.

This is what works with me for those screws.
Tap the side of the screw with a sharp wood chisel in the direction you want the screw to turn.
If you can get one off of each boot, you can usually rotate the boot in the direction you want the screw to turn to loosen the remaining screw.

Replace those screws with Allen's and put some anti-seize on the threads.

Great tip about hitting with a sharp flat screwdriver, worked a treat, thanks.
When refitting the new o rings should they be greased or just put in dry ?

[Staninator]

Great tip about hitting with a sharp flat screwdriver, worked a treat, thanks.
When refitting the new o rings should they be greased or just put in dry ?

I'll spray them down with some silicon lubricant before I put them in. I would recommend getting them moist so that they create a better seal.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Thanks BassCliff.
I took the carbs off last night and there are definitely no o rings in the carb rubbers I'm a bit confused as to where they fit as I've never owned a bike that had o rings there, they all just had the carb going straight into the intake rubber then secured with a clamp. Are there any pictures off these o rings in situ ? Cheers.

The O-rings themselves are fitted between the intake boots and the head.

You will find complete carb tear-down and rebuild procedures, air intake repair procedures, etc, with lots of pictures, in the "how to" guides on my little website.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[MisterCinders]

Thanks BassCliff.
I took the carbs off last night and there are definitely no o rings in the carb rubbers I'm a bit confused as to where they fit as I've never owned a bike that had o rings there, they all just had the carb going straight into the intake rubber then secured with a clamp. Are there any pictures off these o rings in situ ? Cheers.

The O-Rings are between the intake boots and the cylinder head. You won't see them when pulling the carbs. Gotta pull the boots as well.

[MisterCinders]

Great tip about hitting with a sharp flat screwdriver, worked a treat, thanks.
When refitting the new o rings should they be greased or just put in dry ?

I like to grease the O-rings first to keep them in place while reinstalling the boots, and seal them in the channel.

While they're off, check the boots to make sure they have no cracks, aren't hardened and dried out (and therefore soon to crack).

[eil]

If you don't have an impact driver, get one. Cheap as chips and you'll practically never strip a stubborn screw again. And then replace the screws with stainless-steel allen-head bolts.

I had to use my impact driver on my carbs just to get them separated from the rail. (I had to have another person hold the carbs though, as you have to really watch where the force goes. It's pretty easy to crack something if you're not careful.)