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Mearsuring your float levels on VM carbs

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    Mearsuring your float levels on VM carbs

    Thought I would post this up as I've described the process several times, including how to use a part from your carb rack to measure the float level the best way. Once you've done this once it's pretty simple and really the best way to ensure your floats are set properly. All you need to do this is a clear hose that fits tights over the choke cable retaining 'thingy'. The photo's are pretty self explanatory but throw any questions if you have them.











    When I've got the rack in the vise I just use a small level and make sure it's fairly level side to side and back to front. The float bowls are put on with only two screws so it's easier to in and out of them. If you find one of your floats needs to be adjusted you just let fuel flow out of the bowl you're working on and take off the float bowl. I have a small flat head screw driver that I have bent about a 70 degrees and it easily bend the tang on the float to make the adjustment. Back on the bowl goes and check again. I just use a small yogurt container to catch the fuel from the bowls as I move from one to next.
    Rob
    1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
    Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533

    #2
    I have always done it on the engine, idling, choke off as per the service manual. Have you checked it again with the engine idling to see how it compares?
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

    Life is too short to ride an L.

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      #3
      I thought the fuel level was supposed to be below the lip of the body?
      1978 GS 1000 (since new)
      1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
      1978 GS 1000 (parts)
      1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
      1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
      1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
      2007 DRz 400S
      1999 ATK 490ES
      1994 DR 350SES

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        #4
        like this ?



        .

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          #5
          I did once on one of the outer bowls and it was basically the same. In the photo's I haven't put any fuel in yet but the level you're aiming for is always where Gatekeeper shows it. How would you ever be able to do this while the carbs are on the bike? You might be able to do the outer carbs, maybe, even their inner screws would be hard to get at but the two inner float bowl screws would be near impossible and you have to take off the float bowls to adjust the flange on the float. Curious.
          Rob
          1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
          Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533

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            #6
            Rob...I am in agreement.

            It would seem to me that all the carbs are relatively the same..so..it would seem that if you checked all the float hts and set them very carefull to the same measurements, it SHOULD stand to reason that checcking either 1 or 4 would reflect the relateive levels in 2 and 3.

            I myself would just check either 1 or 4 and use that as the overall average of the rest. The differences would be very very slight.
            MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
            1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

            NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


            I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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              #7
              Originally posted by azr View Post
              I did once on one of the outer bowls and it was basically the same. In the photo's I haven't put any fuel in yet but the level you're aiming for is always where Gatekeeper shows it. How would you ever be able to do this while the carbs are on the bike? You might be able to do the outer carbs, maybe, even their inner screws would be hard to get at but the two inner float bowl screws would be near impossible and you have to take off the float bowls to adjust the flange on the float. Curious.
              You can check all four fuel levels easily enough, again look at the service manual. Making any changes is harder but with allen head screws and the proper screwdriver the bowls can be removed on the bike. Whether or not you can make changes on the bike is irrelevant. If you find out one isn't right you can take the carbs off if needed to see why not. I have always checked them, usually they are correct after setting the float height but once in a while one is wrong. For instance if one of the chokes isn't closing completely that carb's fuel level will be way off. You wouldn't know this without the engine running.
              http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

              Life is too short to ride an L.

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                #8
                Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
                You can check all four fuel levels easily enough, again look at the service manual. Making any changes is harder but with allen head screws and the proper screwdriver the bowls can be removed on the bike. Whether or not you can make changes on the bike is irrelevant. If you find out one isn't right you can take the carbs off if needed to see why not. I have always checked them, usually they are correct after setting the float height but once in a while one is wrong. For instance if one of the chokes isn't closing completely that carb's fuel level will be way off. You wouldn't know this without the engine running.
                It seems like so much extra work (ie if its wrong you take carbs back off) to adjust them on as opposed to his method. As long as they are level in the vice with proper fuel level the difference is negligible to doing it on the bike and half the work.

                There is something to be said for sticking to the oem methods but we all know theres easier ways to some.

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                  #9
                  Unless it doesn't work as well. While it is certainly better than nothing, how will a bench test tell you what is happening while it is running?

                  Actually, 90% of the time, the carbs don't need to come off, so it is a lot less work unless there is a problem.
                  http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                  Life is too short to ride an L.

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                    #10
                    I agree with your logic, I was just curious how much of a difference there could really be. I also have big hands so working in tight areas can be miserable. In the CV write up Bass provides it uses the same method of mounting in a vice.

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                      #11
                      Do what you want to do.
                      http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                      Life is too short to ride an L.

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                        #12
                        I don't know what I want too do I'm trying to decide that through discussion.

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