Pipes turning blue is this a problem?

[chuck hahn]

Classic lean no roll on power symptom...you can turn the big knob in the center of the carbs to adjust the idle up a bit..should be around 1,00 to 1,200 RPMs.

But this is not the cure for the lean condition..just will help it from falling on its face as the RPMs drop.

[rockhammer]

idle

Classic lean no roll on power symptom...you can turn the big knob in the center of the carbs to adjust the idle up a bit..should be around 1,00 to 1,200 RPMs.

But this is not the cure for the lean condition..just will help it from falling on its face as the RPMs drop.

It idles now at 1400 rpms maybe 1500. How can I tel if I have fixed the problem? Running to lean? Polish the bluing off and see if the bluing comes back?

[chuck hahn]

Yeah was joking..It needs to be done right and then get the carbs functioning properly. Here is some good reading right from the manufacturer of the carbs.

http://www.mikuni.com/fs-tuning_guide.html

[chuck hahn]

BLUE JOB is an awesome bluing remover. Yes you can polish them and see if it comes back.

Set the top screws at 2 1/2 out from gently seated in and see how it reacts after that. Adjust then idle down to what I said and see what happens.

Just turn them in SLOWLY AND GENTLY till they stop without being forced. DO NOT tighten them in...when they stop on their own start counting the turns out.

[rockhammer]

Carbs

Ok I will put in the new vac boot rings and check vac boots for pliability. I will take air box out and re check the seal on covers and filter. Check rings seal on air box side of carbs also. Then I will check carbs. I have never done it but I have looked through the tutorials here. So is this some think a newbie can do?

[BassCliff]

Hi,

These bikes were set at the factory to run lean enough to pass the EPA mandates at the time. If there are any air leaks in the intake system then the air/fuel mixture would be even leaner. These are 30 year old bikes and all of the maintenance has to be kept up (i.e. airbox sealing, intake boots, intake O-rings, etc). In addition to that, some members have installed Dynojet Stage 1 kits on their otherwise stock bikes to allow greater adjustability in the air/fuel ratios. (Note: Stage 3 kits are used for those bikes with major exhaust and intake modifications.)


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[chuck hahn]

More to read.....

http://www.dansmc.com/carbs2.htm

[chuck hahn]

Also notice there is sealer INSIDE the box along the places the metal pieces join. Pick any loose stuff off and apply something like Ultra Black RTV to all the internal seams to be sure they are air tight.

[ThrottleBack]

As a side note when you fix it FLITZ will take the bluing off.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

As a side note when you fix it FLITZ will take the bluing off.

I'm not familiar with FLITZ. Does it work better than Blue Job?



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[tkent02]

chuck, neither of those links are for CV carburetors.
They work differently.

[ThrottleBack]

Hi,



I'm not familiar with FLITZ. Does it work better than Blue Job?



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

I have no experience with that one. Flitz works great on virtually everything and leaves behind a protective, water repelling coating that is good for usually 3-4 months minimum in summer months.

By hand with a paper towel most bluing can be removed in a few minutes. Using a "rag ball" (I like the flitz one it does not get hot) on a drill will get it off in seconds.

You can polish the entire bike (safe for paint but theres better stuff for that) with the drill attachment in under two hours, and an hour after practice, with flitz. My dads '67 HD is chromed to a rediculous level and it would usually take me around 1.5hrs to polish one end to the other.

Flitz is cheap, available at Walmart and any auto place, and a little goes a very long way. I have also used it to polish carbs/heads/etc on ATV motors.

[sedelen]

Never heard of "Flitz," I do know "Bluejob" works though.
If I see a tube of Flitz at Wal-Mart I pick it up and give it a try.

As far as CV carbs go.

http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_BS-CV_Carburetor_Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf

http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/mc_maint/GS_CV_Carb_Cleaning_Series.pdf

[Steve]

I put a very light amount of oil on it. Half the amount that came with the filter.

Sorry, but that is very UNinformative.

Did they send you half an ounce or half a gallon?

Who said that the entire amount was to be used at once, and you chose to use only half?

We have NO idea how much oil they sent you, but we CAN tell you that it takes VERY LITTLE oil to properly oil a K&N filter.

.

[sedelen]

Check your engine breather hose from the engine to the air box for a good seal, item 13, and............
your air box drain hose, item 18. (The one on my GS1000 didn't have a plug on the end, but the one on my '82 GS1100E came with a plug at the end of the hose, I always thought there was some funky check valve thingy in there prior). Don't know what those "tube drains" are all about, item 11 & 12, but they could be a source for air leaks also.

http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=95283&category=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=1982&fveh=2144

Also, I think those K & N air filters are less restrictive than OEM air filters,
don't know how much of a difference that would make but..........

Pics of the pipes would be great.

If after checking for vacuum leaks and it makes no difference, I'd just back out the air screws a quarter of a turn and see if it improves, or better yet do the high rpm method.