Pipes turning blue is this a problem?

[chuck hahn]

I know that Tom...but it explains the basics of how the venturis create a low pressure zone, the basic pathways and functions of the circuits.etc etc. Take what you need and leave the rest applies.

The very basics are the same whether its a diaphram operation that opens the slides or a hard point mechanical link ..like VMs. Once the slides move and bring up the needles etc etc its all very close to the same really.

[rockhammer]

I have all the parts in to completely go through the bike today and check all areas where ther can be a leak. I actually noticed the bluing is strongest out of the number four pipe. That is the far end of the air box where I am not sure the air filter is sealed right. I will dissemble today and have a look. I really like all the responses this is really insightful.

[rockhammer]

Sorry, but that is very UNinformative.

Did they send you half an ounce or half a gallon?

Who said that the entire amount was to be used at once, and you chose to use only half?

We have NO idea how much oil they sent you, but we CAN tell you that it takes VERY LITTLE oil to properly oil a K&N filter.

.

I cant not remember the weight. It was a small plastic pillows worth I would say a couple table spoons at the most in the pillow. The instruction said I should not use any more than half. I used about that maybe a tad less. I ran very little over each pleat and let it sit while the oil dispersed through out the filter.

[chuck hahn]

Get the recharging kits at any outo parts store. Has cleaner and a pump sprayer for the oil. Actually regular Dawn dish soap and hot water is the best cleaner I had found for K&N filters.

[koolaid_kid]

I cant not remember the weight. It was a small plastic pillows worth I would say a couple table spoons at the most in the pillow. The instruction said I should not use any more than half. I used about that maybe a tad less. I ran very little over each pleat and let it sit while the oil dispersed through out the filter.

That is the correct way to do it. They turn pink.

Get the recharging kits at any outo parts store. Has cleaner and a pump sprayer for the oil. Actually regular Dawn dish soap and hot water is the best cleaner I had found for K&N filters.

I also use dish soap. Works great.
You can get the oil in a liquid or spray. The spray is easier for rookies to use, but I prefer the oil since I have been using it for 4 decades.

[chuck hahn]

I like the spray...easy to just dust the filter and rarely do you over oil it. Unless you really soak it with the pump that is, which is NOT what you want. I liken the amount to like a really fine morning dew..just barely wet.

[koolaid_kid]

I agree the spray is easier. I have been doing it for so long I can almost do it in my sleep. But the spray is easier.

[Paul]

I cant not remember the weight. It was a small plastic pillows worth I would say a couple table spoons at the most in the pillow. The instruction said I should not use any more than half. I used about that maybe a tad less. I ran very little over each pleat and let it sit while the oil dispersed through out the filter.

Yep I just fitted the same K&N, ( http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=209284 ) Rockhammer has followed the instructions to the letter, I think mine is running a little lean (on my GS1100G) after fitting it, but I have only ran it while syncing the carbs, I haven't worried about it yet as I'm still to fit a 4-1 pipe.

[koolaid_kid]

I put the in-box K&N in my GS on one of my first maintenance routines. I did the washer mod to it, which richens it slightly, and I was GTG. Since you are going to put a pipe on it, you will probably have to go up a size or so on the main jets as well.
The washer mod is always a good thing to do, which raises the needle just a bit, but I can't find any of the threads which describe it. Basically, you replace the factory plastic washer with a stack of 4-5 3mm stainless steel washers, the stack being slightly shorter than the original plastic washer. I got mine at Ace Hardware, but you can also buy the assortment of SAE washers at Radio Shack and use the the ones that are "close enough". Since I had the K&N, I used 4 washers IIRC.

[Paul]

I put the in-box K&N in my GS on one of my first maintenance routines. I did the washer mod to it, which richens it slightly, and I was GTG. Since you are going to put a pipe on it, you will probably have to go up a size or so on the main jets as well.
The washer mod is always a good thing to do, which raises the needle just a bit, but I can't find any of the threads which describe it. Basically, you replace the factory plastic washer with a stack of 4-5 3mm stainless steel washers, the stack being slightly shorter than the original plastic washer. I got mine at Ace Hardware, but you can also buy the assortment of SAE washers at Radio Shack and use the the ones that are "close enough". Since I had the K&N, I used 4 washers IIRC.

Yep I got Jets on the 'to buy' list. I hadn't seen the washer mod so that's interesting, as I'm likely to go K&N again on the GL with standard pipes...cheers!

[ThrottleBack]

Everytime I read a jetting thread I decide my stock intake, carbs, exhaust etc are the best thing ever lol

[koolaid_kid]

Everytime I read a jetting thread I decide my stock intake, carbs, exhaust etc are the best thing ever lol

It really depends on a number of factors:
Goals
Skill
Experience
Tools available
Patience

For example, I wanted my GS to look and sound as close to stock as possible.
I made minor changes to offset the lean condition the factory delivered it in and to compensate for the K&N airbox filter. It was a peppy machine.
OTOH, I wanted my GPz to appear like a period hot rod bike. Pipe, pods, jet kit. I was fortunate enough to have all the tools to jet it, including a wideband for tuning it. With the 810cc kit, milled head, degreed cams, Accel coils with my personal version of the coil relay mod, it is pretty peppy. Took a bit of work, but I like it.

[stockGS]

Here is another symptom that might be related. When the bike as at idle if I rev it the rpms drop and it seems like it wants to die. I have to save it from dieing by giving it a little help with the throttle. This does not happen when I pull up to a red light only if I rev it and then let it drop back down by it self. It does not always turn off either some times the rpms just drop real low and then it comes back up in a few seconds. Could this be related?

I am having the same type of problem with my '82 GS850G stock set up. I have gone through the GS greeting and cleaned the carbs, new boots on both sides, o-rings, seal the airbox. I have run it for a little over a thousand miles since then and thought i had a good idle at 1,000 rpm, now at a stop sign it falls off and dies. I saw chuck hahn's response of turning the idle up to 1,200 to hold the idle, but i would like to have a nice even 1,000. Any ideas where to start? Should i tune the carbs using the high rev. method?

[ThrottleBack]

did you fully strip and dip the carbs? Have you checked the valves just to make sure they are correct?

[chuck hahn]

My turn the idle up response was intended to help keep the bike running at stop signs so it doesnt stall on you as you work thru the systems to find the actual cause(s) of the symptoms in the first place.

It kind of hard to adjust a bike that wont stay running for you to turn the needles and such...unless you have 5 hands and long arms!!!!