Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Tuning advice needed following dyno test

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    Finally some good progress
    I did a first ride with the 5D59 needles in position #3 ( from the top), 147.5 MJ and 40 IJ.
    Very good power above 1/2 WOT but lots of hesitation between 1/4 to 1/2 WOT.
    That's easy! The DJ instructions tell you to raise the needle by one and maybe two slots.
    No hesitation! I went for two slots meaning I'm now at the last slot (#5).
    New try on my favorite twisty road
    The bike pulls very strongly above 1/2 WOT AND there is now only the slightest hesitation ( but not always!) at around 1/3 WOT.
    Idle is perfect and it pulls very nicely off idle.
    A problem that I've been wanting to fix since the beginning...
    I'm almost certain the bike is more powerfull as I went 10 km/h faster than my previous max.
    What's the logic in all this?
    The DJ needle doesn't seem to work correctly with my BS 34 SS carbs.
    A dyno test will now probably show a more constant AFR throughout the rev range at WOT.
    Another potential culprit could be the pods?
    I bought mine from Dynoman but most "experts" tell me that only the K&N pods are tunable???
    Last but not least my 4 into 1 is made by Laser and I have the feeling it's very much tuned for the mid-range.
    sigpicJohn Kat
    My bikes: CB 77, GS 1000 ST Cafe Racer with GSXR 1052 engine, GS 1000 ST, XR 41 Replica with GS 1085 engine,
    GS 1100 SZ Katana with GS 1135 EFF engine, KTM Superduke 1290 R 2020

    Comment


      #17
      I'd suspect that the idle jets are still a tad lean for that pipe/pod setup and you're compensating by raising the needles.
      IMO with the right idle jets the needle should come back to the middle notch.
      In my experience the 8V motors like what seems an overly big idle jet no matter what carbs are fitted.

      The idle jets have a lot of overlap into the early/mid stages of the needle's range.

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by GregT View Post
        I'd suspect that the idle jets are still a tad lean for that pipe/pod setup and you're compensating by raising the needles.
        IMO with the right idle jets the needle should come back to the middle notch.
        In my experience the 8V motors like what seems an overly big idle jet no matter what carbs are fitted.

        The idle jets have a lot of overlap into the early/mid stages of the needle's range.
        I had suspected that early on by replacing the 40s by 47.5s.
        At first, I thought I had the off idle issue solved but sometimes it worked and sometimes it didn't
        I will try again with the new needle set-up.
        Thanks
        sigpicJohn Kat
        My bikes: CB 77, GS 1000 ST Cafe Racer with GSXR 1052 engine, GS 1000 ST, XR 41 Replica with GS 1085 engine,
        GS 1100 SZ Katana with GS 1135 EFF engine, KTM Superduke 1290 R 2020

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by GregT View Post
          I'd suspect that the idle jets are still a tad lean for that pipe/pod setup and you're compensating by raising the needles.
          IMO with the right idle jets the needle should come back to the middle notch.
          In my experience the 8V motors like what seems an overly big idle jet no matter what carbs are fitted.

          The idle jets have a lot of overlap into the early/mid stages of the needle's range.
          I'm seeing that the 8V bikes are a different animal to the 16V but when I was tuning my 1166 with 4:2:1 and ported head, I was searching through the combinations and ended up moving the needle from the 2th position all the way to the top position (leanest) and the bike just would not run. So going to the extreme on the needle produced very poor results. if memory serves, I backed the needle position back and reduced the pilot jet and got a much better result..
          Last edited by posplayr; 06-15-2013, 04:01 PM.

          Comment

          Working...
          X