VM fuel screw has no effect, runs rich with screw seated??

[OldVet66]

I've found 24mm to be the best setting for me on the floats. It puts the level with a sight tube just to the bottom or slightly above the bottom rim of the float bowl. According to the manual it should be in the middle of the rim + or - the top or bottom of the rim. It always shows the same level statically just filling the bowls and at idle after the initial start up compensation. Check both sides of the floats and bend them slightly so both hit the mark exactly.

[althomas101]

Thanks guys, I do have a float level tube, I didn't realize they are that touchy about float level. Also thanks OldVet, what caused me to really keep at the carbs is that stumble in the 1,500-2,000 RPM range you were talking about. From what I've seen you have to be really rich to make the bike actually run crappy, I'll try to get it adjusted so the air screws are around 2 turns per your recommendation. Other than that transition issue, and a little bit of loading up on extended idle the bike runs great. I'm just a bit anal about things like this, I think most people would just say the heck with it and move on. That is why I haven't gotten around to doing the valves, I'm a one thing at a time person. I swear I'm about ready to go with pods, after wrestling that damn air box so many times, I keep telling myself "this time will be the ticket".. LOL. I just want to ride the damn thing.

[OldVet66]

Patience will win out. I almost forgot, with the VM carburetors, a slightly opened choke will stall the bike coming to a fairly quick stop. Make sure all the choke lifts are not on upside down, the top of the curl on the lift tabs face up and that all the set screws are in the v groove in the lift rod. All these circuits affect each other to some extent. PM me if you want to call, I'm not that far away in the scheme of things.

[althomas101]

Lol, this bike has been nothing but and exercise in patience. It seems that every time I look at it I find something else that needs attention. OldVet, you’re over an hour away super slabbing it. I'd never ask someone to do that for me, though I appreciate the offer. Maybe we could meet up in Front Royal and hit the mountains come fall; it has been a while since I rode the Blue Ridge Parkway.

[OldVet66]

As long as I don't have to ride rush hour that would not be a problem, I'm semi retired. I have access to a Morgan Colortune, remote gas tank, factory shim kit, tools for adjusting valves, Morgan Carbtune manometer, and Morgan angled screwdriver kit for adjusting pilot fuel screws hot and sync tool for adjusting the slides. They all fit in my saddlebags.

[althomas101]

Well I might take you up on a good tuneup, but I want to take care of the basics first and get it close, so I don't waste your time. I have a friend from a Nighthawk forum up in central PA who is probably in a similar situation as you. I go up there occasionally to help him when he has an electrical issue that is stumping him. Forums such as this are great for meeting cool people that you otherwise would never meet. I'll send you a PM with my contact info.

[OldVet66]

Well, when you get too it remember I have a factory shim kit and I think I have two spare valve cover gaskets on hand. It doesn't take long to adjust the valves if you don't have to wait and order the shims.

[althomas101]

Thanks for your generosity, I've have a gasket, the bucket depressor tool, and the smallest shim in case i have a valve that is too tight to measure. I need to order a breather gasket, and metric feeler gauges, along with new fuel screws. There is a local shop that specializes in old bikes, I was going to stop in and see if they would swap/sell shims. I spent about an hour talking bikes with the owner one time, and he really likes the 8 valve Suzukis, so maybe I'll get lucky. I got a pair of carb bodies soaking right now, so once I get the rack cleaned and rebuilt hopefully I'll have everything to do the valves. If your looking for a reason to make a trip, I'd be appreciative of your help. I should be free the weekend of the 29th, as I have a commitment this Saturday to my church.

[OldVet66]

I'll keep it in mind and get in touch with you later. The back way up from my house on 15 is a nice ride and not all that far. We trade shims with the local factory shim kit so if you get stuck for a size let me know what it is. We are only short on two sizes. There are 10 GS motorcycles within a half mile from where I live including what is in my garage.

[althomas101]

Update:
After a 24 hour soak, rebuild, new fuel screws, set to 7/8th turn on fuel screws, and 2 turns on air screws, floats set to 24mm and checked with tube to 3mm from the float bowl seam. Then a quick sync, and valve job, which I only had to replace 1 shim. After leaning the fuel screws on the 2 carbs that had previously snapped fuel screws, it is running closer to correct. Milage is up to about 44 mpg. Though it still wants to die when comming to a stop, which I think is rich and it only happens once the engine gets hot. I have to get new plugs since I have enough miles on the ones in there to where it is difficult to get a definitive reading. These carbs are touchy, I'm seriously doubting I can get them perfect without a colortune or a gas anayizer. Also not having a pilot wrench is slowing things down dut to it is really hard to get to the #2 carb because of the clutch cable.

[althomas101]

Update 2:
After a weeks worth of riding back and forth to work tweaking both to and fro. I determined that 2 of the carbs still do not have a range of adjustability so I swapped them out with another set of bodies that were soaked, etc. now I'm still down to one carb that will not go rich even at 3 turns out on the fuel screw , so I guess I'll have to try another carb again.. OldVet I wouldn't bother with coming over since I can't guarantee that all of the carbs are working properly. I'll keep updating as I go.

[OldVet66]

Z1 Enterprises has a wire set you might want to get to insure the tiny passages are not still partially clogged. http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDet...item=KL35-3498

[althomas101]

Since the #4 carb is the only one that I don't have a spare for I'm just going to have to go with it. I can get it to blacken the plug at 3/4 turns out on the air screw, so I can at least get the mixture correct even if it isn't 2 turns out. I'm going to use the IR thermometer on it to get the pipes consistent, until I can get a colortune. It runs damn near perfect except for some loading up at idle due to it being a little rich but it in't too bad, and rides nice.
Oldvet did you take that job? I'd like to meet up, DavidBailey and I are going to try and meet, maybe we could meet you somewhere.

[OldVet66]

No, It ended up the lady was a real flake. Right now I'm fighting an extreme case of sciatica. Been hanging around on an inversion table trying to stretch my spine enough to keep it from pinching my sciatic nerve that put my left leg out of action. I'm making daily progress, so I should be back on the bike soon. I'm in the building up exercise phase now so it shouldn't be to long. I'll try to get my friends electronic tach, and I have access to a ColorTune. The tach helps a lot on seemingly unresponsive highest idle
adjusts. I'm back in the saddle again. I'll scrounge around and see if I can come up with another carb body.