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    #1

    Plug check, Lean?

    Just a quick question, attached is a picture of one of my new spark plugs.

    I only sent one picture becasue all of the sparkplugs look the same color.

    I was just wondering if this is a lean condition or not?

    My air box does leek a little and i am going to be fixing that as soon as the parts come in. I am also ordering the new boot gaskets.

    Thanks for any input.
    Tags: None
    #2
    I would say yes..just a tad. The porcelean should be just a slight tannish color but NOT black. Also note the electrode is chalky grey and ashy looking..dead give away there too.
    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

    Comment

      #3
      Add bike year and model to the signature for us to know what bike it is in the future. Got VM or CV carbs? With this info we can make suggestions as to where the needles need to be adjusted to.
      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

      Comment

        #4
        Sorry forgot to put that.

        1980 GS850L

        I know the carbs are makuni and have the diafram slide and needle. 4 screws and a flat round top.

        Comment

          #5
          OK...CV carbs. At the top rear of the throat is where you adjust them. The needles are pretty fragile, so heres what you do.

          Give them little squirt of PB Blaster or other light oil..to relube them a little.

          Next, gently and slowly turn them in till they bottom out and stop turning. Once they stop on their own DO NOT FORCE OR THIGHTEN anymore. You don't want to break off the tips!!!

          Now, inline with the screw slot, make a new mark on the rim of the hole as a reference mark. Turn the screws OUT 2 full turns. This is the basic default setting for the screws and will be very very close.

          On CXVs, you just need to remember its like a water faucet. The more you turn the screws out, the more fuel / air mixture your allowing into the cylinder. So you now just turn the screws about 1/8 turn the way you need to to fine tune each cylinder.

          Want to richen number 2, for example, the turn the screw on 2 out 1/8 turn. Or in 1/8 if you need to lean it a bit...make sense?
          MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
          1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

          NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


          I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

          Comment

            #6
            Also, I see your new here. What maintenance have you done to the bike?

            To save yourself a TON of swearing and time, you need to be sure all the maintenance is up to date...

            Valves adjusted
            Carbs fully rebuilt and NEW orings throughout.
            Carbs vacuum synced after restart.
            New intake manifold orings.

            No sense in fiddling with the carbs until the list is done..why? because everything works like a well rehearsed symphony together..one things not right and youll never get then other issues aligned. Cliff has a STCKY at then very top. Click on it and do all the maintenance that's listed on his Mega Welcome.
            Last edited by chuck hahn; 06-29-2013, 11:12 AM.
            MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
            1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

            NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


            I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

            Comment

              #7
              Top of "GS OWNERS" section is the STICKY...go there and click it.
              MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
              1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

              NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


              I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

              Comment

                #8
                You will always have a lean condition while you have intake leaks. While I agree with Chuck's method, I suggest you fix all the leaks first, then start adjusting.

                Comment

                  #9
                  Last paragraph of my post 6 addressed that issue. There is no reason to fiddle with the carbs unless and until all the maintenance is updated.

                  Just be chasing tail otherwise.
                  MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                  1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                  NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                  I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    What are some ideas to seal the intake?
                    I attached a picture of the leak. The other 3 carbs are tight i can spray them and no change of idle. The top of the boot leaks and i have tried and tried to get the airbox to line up but it wont. My next guess was to seal it with some weather stripping of some sort.

                    Also thanks for the responses.

                    When i get back from my work in portland I was going to order all the gaskets needed. also new screws. The first carbs screw that holds the top cover on is stripped out.

                    The main reason i asked was to see if i was way off or most likely if i fix the intake leak that my bike will be tuned right. Also if all the spark blugs are the same does that mean in is balanced well?

                    Thanks again.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Yes, you did Chuck. I failed to read into that statement. I never went through Cliff's list, having done it all long before he created it.

                      Duner, you need to replace that boot, it is torn. They are still listed on the dealers' fiche as available.
                      The colour of the plugs is not an indication of the carbs being balanced. As Chuck stated, go through the list first, then start fine tuning things.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        One problem with the airboxes that develops over time is that the wall facing the carbs actually begins to get sun k in around the center...thus the boots wont line up or go on all the way.

                        When you have the carbs out for the rebuild, take the airbox and very slowly heat it with a heat gun or a badass hair dryer to get the plastic softened up. The push the wall back out with a gloved hand and run cold water over it to reset the walls flatness. This will realign the boots and make them all go on easier and farther up on the carb throats.
                        MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                        1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                        NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                        I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Replace ALL the rubber boots, head side and airbox side and get new clamps as well. Check the drain tube at the bottom of the airbox. If it is open put a plug in it. When I order a new drain tube it had a plug. Make the air cleaner cover has a good seal as well.
                          sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
                          1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
                          2015 CAN AM RTS


                          Stuff I've done to my bike 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Thanks everyone i will try your ideas. I have started looking at the boots online to buy. The big welcome thing made it sound like the rubber boots are like 28 bucks. my guess is they have risen in price sense that was made haha. The cheapest i found was $140 for the engine side with new clamps and $72 for airbox side with new clamps. I have order all the orings and new fasterner from the cycle orings guy. As soon as it is all here i will try the idea to reshape the airbox.

                            Thanks guys.

                            one last thing what is the best way to get shims for the vavles? should i just order new ones from a dealer site? they have an asortment of sizes.

                            Thanks again.

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                              One problem with the airboxes that develops over time is that the wall facing the carbs actually begins to get sun k in around the center...thus the boots wont line up or go on all the way.

                              When you have the carbs out for the rebuild, take the airbox and very slowly heat it with a heat gun or a badass hair dryer to get the plastic softened up. The push the wall back out with a gloved hand and run cold water over it to reset the walls flatness. This will realign the boots and make them all go on easier and farther up on the carb throats.
                              Good tip Chuck, I'll have to try that.
                              GSRick
                              No God, no peace. Know God, know peace.

                              Eric Bang RIP 9/5/2018
                              Have some bikes ready for us when we meet up.

                              Comment

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