85 gs700es wont run after carb rebuild

[Guest]

Ok, So yesterday was the day I supposed to ride out of the garage on my GS. Sadly it will not fire. Cranks over just fine, fuel in the bowls, spark on all four and in the correct sequence. What gives? I just completed a full strip and dip of the carbs and rebuilt with new o-rings everywhere. Went to pods and re-jetted the bike. The plugs are dry, like it is getting no fuel. Started with the air/fuel screws out 2 turns but they must be at 3 and ¼ turn now in an effort to get it some fuel. It would fire a little bit with starting fluid but die fast. The most frustrating thing is that this spring it was running (poorly) on hacked carbs. Now the carbs are all set and it won’t run at all. The one thing I am sure is not right is the vacuum lines going to the pet cock. There are two lines that run from the carbs to the pet cock. When the bike was running it only had one line hooked up. Still only one line hooked up but not working. I am getting that sorted but I doubt that is the reason. Please help me out here.

[tom203]

ON petcock ,the bigger line is the fuel line which connects between carbs 2 and 3 (??). If plugs are not wet after some cranking, then no fuel is reaching them even if bowls are filled. Did you clean/blow out "choke" feed lines in each bowl- fuel needs to climb up little tube in each carb when you activate "choke" ?

You must have seen this link....

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/hose_locations.html

[Steve]

A few suggestions:

1. As Tom mentioned, there should be TWO hoses to the petcock, assuming you still have a stock petcock. The larger line goes between carbs 2 & 3, the smaller one attaches to a vacuum nipple on carb #2.

2. Have you used the PRIme function on the petcock to fill the float bowls?
Since you just rebuilt the carbs, the bowls will be dry.

3. Assuming normal connections so far, are you using the "choke" properly?
To start a cold bike, turn the key ON, ensure the 'kill' switch is in the RUN position. Pull the 'choke' lever to the left, might not need to go all the way. Pull the clutch lever, press the START button. Did you notice that I never mentioned "play with the throttle"? That is because you don't touch the throttle when starting the bike with the 'choke'. When the engine starts, modulate the idle speed with the 'choke' lever until the engine is warm enough to run without it.

4. Have you checked your master idle speed control knob?
After a rebuild, it is common to not have it set correctly. Give it another half a turn (or more), try again.

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[Danaconda7]

yes I cleared the choke circuit.

[Danaconda7]

A few suggestions:

1. As Tom mentioned, there should be TWO hoses to the petcock, assuming you still have a stock petcock. The larger line goes between carbs 2 & 3, the smaller one attaches to a vacuum nipple on carb #2.

2. Have you used the PRIme function on the petcock to fill the float bowls?
Since you just rebuilt the carbs, the bowls will be dry.

3. Assuming normal connections so far, are you using the "choke" properly?
To start a cold bike, turn the key ON, ensure the 'kill' switch is in the RUN position. Pull the 'choke' lever to the left, might not need to go all the way. Pull the clutch lever, press the START button. Did you notice that I never mentioned "play with the throttle"? That is because you don't touch the throttle when starting the bike with the 'choke'. When the engine starts, modulate the idle speed with the 'choke' lever until the engine is warm enough to run without it.

4. Have you checked your master idle speed control knob?
After a rebuild, it is common to not have it set correctly. Give it another half a turn (or more), try again.

.

Yes I have two hoses on the pet cock. one feeding fuel and the other on the vacuum nipple. however carb three has a vacuum nipple as will but I do not have that set up.

Yes i primed the carbs and verified that there was fuel in the bowls.

I am using the choke properly. with no luck. plugs are dry. I am angry.

[Danaconda7]

and yes i have diled in some idle speed, Guess i will hit it with some more.

[Steve]

... however carb three has a vacuum nipple as will but I do not have that set up.

OK, let's make sure you are numbering the carbs correctly.

#1 is under your clutch hand, #4 is under your throttle hand.

Normally, in a rack of BS-series carbs, it is the #2 carb that has the vacuum nipple.

.

[Danaconda7]

yes that is correct 1,2,3,4. from left to right as you sit on the bike. however on my bike there are 2 vacuum nipples. one on carb one and one on carb three I think. I will need to post some pics so everyone can understand what I am dealing with.

[slayer61]

Vacuum to petcock, is vacuum to petcock. It makes no difference from which cylinder it comes, as long as the petcock sees a vacuum signal, and the other ports are blocked or capped off. I went through this with my es a couple of years ago.

[Danaconda7]

Vacuum to petcock, is vacuum to petcock. It makes no difference from which cylinder it comes, as long as the petcock sees a vacuum signal, and the other ports are blocked or capped off. I went through this with my es a couple of years ago.

thanks for the advice, I will either "T" the to vacuum ports to the pet cock of just block the other.

[Steve]

thanks for the advice, I will either "T" the to vacuum ports to the pet cock of just block the other.

There is only ONE vacuum port on ONE of the carbs, it is on the top of the carb, near the mixture screw.

If you are talking about the VENT ports that are between the carbs, there is no vacuum there, they will not open your petcock.

Please refer to THIS DOCUMENT (<-- click link) that is found on BassCliff's site.

.

[Danaconda7]

perfect, thank you. I hope this gets me closer.

[Steve]

yes that is correct 1,2,3,4. from left to right as you sit on the bike. however on my bike there are 2 vacuum nipples. one on carb one and one on carb three I think. I will need to post some pics so everyone can understand what I am dealing with.

Still waiting on the pictures, if you have them.

.