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Bad float needle? how to tell

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    #1

    Bad float needle? how to tell

    So I rebuilt my carbs again, to make sure everything was clean. I noticed that I have what appears to be 2 different types of float needles, they are the same dimensions, but the pin where the float pushes them up is different. On 2 of them the pin can be pushed all the way into the needle, on the other 2 it pushes in until about an 1/8 of an inch out.

    are they just different types? or are the 2 that push in all the way bad? I would imagine the float height could be slightly off because of this.

    The carb that one of the needles that pushes in all the way in on is running rich at idle.

    I did put the carbs back together and I switched which carb the needle was on to test it, but just seeing if anyone has advice.
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    #2
    Rubber tipped ones will have a visible line set into them.

    Steel tipped ones usually aren't effected much, but they too can get wear marks.

    The float seats themselves are the most likely to wear since they are just soft brass.

    Check for stuck springs on the little posts sticking up from the needles as well. Check for spring action and free everytime movement.
    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

    Comment

      #3
      They should all be the same..get all 4 of one kind or the other would be my advice.
      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

      Comment

        #4
        I would suggest soaking them in carb cleaner The needle's can get clogged with junk. the little spring post will get stuck

        Comment

          #5
          There are different size needles.
          What bike are these carbs going on?
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

          Comment

            #6
            the bike is an 81 GS850G, the needles are the same length, I was just wondering more about the pin that the float pushes against. I had trouble measuring float height on the 2 that compressed all the way, I had to hold the float up because it wouldn't hold itself.

            Comment

              #7
              The spring in those two are broken ( corroded to dust basically ) . The needles need replaced.
              MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
              1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

              NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


              I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

              Comment

                #8
                What is the purpose of the little spring inside the needle anyway?

                Comment

                  #9
                  It adds lifting and a positive pressure to the needle when the float raises and presses against it.And it acts kinda like a shock absorber also so the needles don't get slammed in to the seats as the floats bounce from movement of the bike.
                  MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                  1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                  NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                  I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Z1 Enterprises sells packs of needles.

                    If the float weight compresses the spring, or if the spring is jambed up somehow, best to replace them.

                    After you are done it's best to measure fuel level in the carbs. Carb rebuild tutorial shown in my signature shows you how.
                    Ed

                    To measure is to know.

                    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Thanks, that makes sense.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                        The spring in those two are broken ( corroded to dust basically ) . The needles need replaced.
                        Thanks for the response, ordered some from Z1, hopefully that's my final issue

                        Comment

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