So I dropped the needles one more tick, but it races at idle now around 3-4k rpm. I did tighten the mixture screws, although I thought tightening them would lean out the idle.
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chobint
Originally posted by Katarat View Post
So I dropped the needles one more tick, but it races at idle now around 3-4k rpm. I did tighten the mixture screws, although I thought tightening them would lean out the idle.
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chobint
So I assume that by dropping the needle to the lowest clip (highest needle height), that I made the main circuit interfere with the idle circuit? Adjusting the mixture screws and brass knobby thingy helped lower the idle to 2500, but obviously was not enough.
It would seem that the lowest clip position the engine will tolerate is the 2nd from the pointy tip.
I re-did the needles just now, so my configuration is back to what I tested last night:
138 mains
47.5 pilots (cavity plugged)
Needle clips at the 2nd lowest position.
Any thoughts? I have 140 mains sitting in a jar in the kitchen. I know that the 8 valve dynojet kit has 165 mains (eek). I assume I have a 16 valve, as the VIN and serials all seem to match up.
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I guess it's now time to see what pods you are running.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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chobint
The only identifying mark I can see is "HPI" on the clamps. The filters are conical with a circular end cap, black filtration media with stainless mesh. They are generics for all I know. I would think that cheap restrictive filters would cause a rich condition, rather than lean. Open to suggestions.
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chobint
Well I found that one of the emulsion tubes is different from the others (Pictured on the right). The large hole at the top is smaller than the others, and the 4 small holes are larger than the others. This anything to worry about?
Click link to see the full sized image:
Last edited by Guest; 07-30-2013, 10:21 PM.
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Originally posted by chobint View PostWell I found that one of the emulsion tubes is different from the others (Pictured on the right). The large hole at the top is smaller than the others, and the 4 small holes are larger than the others. This anything to worry about?
Click link to see the full sized image:
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c179/chobint/cannon096.jpg~original
I have a stock needle jet (emulsion tube) for you.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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chobint
Originally posted by chef1366 View PostYes it is
I have a stock needle jet (emulsion tube) for you.
Otherwise, I finally got some results tonight! I upped the main jet to 140, needles at 2nd highest position and now I only get hesitation at 5k rpm. Once you get beyond that point, it rips pretty clean and hard. Before there were other noticeable flat spots. The downside is that it won't idle without just a pinch of choke. Mixture screws are at -4.5 turns. I pulled the filters and noticed that there are 160 pilot air jets (optional, according to dynojet specs). In my amateur analysis, it sounds like the bottom end is a bit lean? Ugh this is fun but exhausting.
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You should have a 170 pilot air jet.
Yes it matters1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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chobint
I called dynojet and they don't make a DH170. I sourced some OEM ones and they are 11 bucks a pop (ouch). Any recommendation on an aftermarket source?
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Originally posted by chobint View PostI called dynojet and they don't make a DH170. I sourced some OEM ones and they are 11 bucks a pop (ouch). Any recommendation on an aftermarket source?1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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chobint
I got the idle dialed in pretty good tonight. 1100rpm is as low as I could get her with the idle remaining resilient to load and throttle fluctuation. Anyway, I will stop posting for a while till I get the parts needed to continue.
Here's a vid of her idling tonight. Clicking will send you to photobucket
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Is there no baffle in that pipe?sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
2015 CAN AM RTS
Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.
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chobint
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chobint
Well, I got the stock needle jet installed. I've been on and off my bike a couple 20 times trying to get the mixture dialed in (fail). I think I will drop the needle one tick, such that it is in the default position (ala dynojet kit specs).
I do have a few questions regarding mixture screw tuning.
How long does the bike need to run for the plug color to indicate mixture? Are there any key milestones I should be looking for while dialing in the mixture? I noticed that when the mixture gets rich at idle the exhaust has a mellow blubbering sort of noise, kind of like a v-twin.
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chobint
After many failed attempts to dial in the mixture, I fouled set of plugs yesterday. I gapped some new ones (.635 metric) and put them in. The bike started for a few minutes, then slowly started to die and then absolutely refused to fire. Various choke levels, mixture and idle screw. Nothing. WTF MATE. I gave up for the night.
Today, I drain the bowls. Prime for a few minutes. Boom it starts right up... flooded carbs I guess? About an hour of tweaks and I seem to have gotten the mixture close. Idle is resilient but has slight gallop and not as low as I'd like. Early pickup is very sharp, and the mid to upper was good enough that I think I'm going to need new suspension and better front brakes. The top end lacked that exponential burst of power I'm used to on sport bikes and there is just a hint of hesitation at moderate RPM under high load. More riding tomorrow will give a better understanding of the current tune. I'm thinking a sync would be the next step at this point?
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