New MAC 2-1 exhaust

[incarceration]

The gas should stop flowing with the engine off, just a little will run out of the hose if the vacuum petcock (shutoff valve) is operating properly. You will lose the fuel in the fuel bowls of tge carb, so have a rag handy or drain them from the drain screw before removing.

Maybe you should read one of the cv/bs carb rebuild guides before you tear into it, to familiarize yourself with the carbs. A cycleorings.com kit is always a great idea, by the way. so is dipping the xarbs & installing new intake boot o-rings (the real big ones against the cylinder head).

Thanks but i already did tear into it a few months ago and replaced a lot of parts on it. I didnt dip them or replace the boots or boot o rings though. Right now I'm concerned with getting it back on the road after replacing the exhaust system, stator, and vr\r. I may do the boots later.

As far as the petcock and flowing fuel, are you saying it wont let fuel through with it in the FUEL position (aimed upward) and motor off?

I have a brand new petcock on it btw from a couple months back when i had it all apart

[Chuck78]

Your jets have been removed before, you can see the slot is a little mangled on the mains.maybe just for cleaning, or mayne swapped out with cheapos from a generic rebuild kit.

You might as well go buy a K&N filter for your bike now, it will flow way better than stock. Some bikes you can remove the airbox lid for better flow as well. You are rejetting anyways, so now's a better time than ever to go k&n.

For the plug chops, tune the idle/pilot mixture good for decent starts, idle, and less than 1/8 throttle acceleration. throw in a new set of plugs, ride 25-30 miles on them to get some coloration on them. Find a desolate straight country road with no houses nearby, preferably uphill, and start from a lower speed and blast through the gears uphill at wide open throttle for at least 8-10 seconds, then simultaneously hold in the clutch, hit the kill switch, and close the throttle and pull over at a safe location.

Pull the plugs, throw in a spare set (probably have OEM wire ends aka plug caps, so have pliers to remove the threaded end of the new spark plugs where the wire goes on so tge oem caps will snap on), put the new ones in, and ride home.

Put the plugs in a vice and cut off almost all of the threaded part of the plug to reveal the entire recessed portion of the ceramic insulator that is exposed to the combustion.

This is where you "read" the plugs. They should be very light tan or grey-ish, and may darken a slight bit at the very bottom of the insulator. If the are pretty white still and you rode it plenty, you are way too lean. Look for speckles of vaporized aluminum on the porcelain to see if your engine is runnimg hot or going into detonation (pre-ignition from heat of compression like a diesel).

If the plug is sooty black or dark brown at the base or the whole insulator, you are too rich.

Z1 is great, jetsrus.com have oem equivalents and mikuni's for good prices. Yours may be the "small round main jet," rather than the large round mains. Also referred to as slot head mikuni's, since the bs32's etc use a hex head and not a screwdriver slot.

Since you dont know if you have 115 or 120 (both stock) or non-stock, I'd swap a k&n filter in & try mains from 132.5 down to 125. They come in 2.5 incriments. That would require 10 jets plus $7 shipping. Start swapping them in and do a plug chop on each size. Rich will sound kinda muffled and mushy, lean will sound sharp & zingy. Max power will be had 1 jet size up from dangerously lean.

[Chuck78]

Yes in the on or run position, it only flows fuel when the engine is running and pulling vacuum on it through a vacuum hose. Pri (prime) will bypass the vacuum mechanism and flow fuel. Res (reserve) will let you use the last gallon of fuel that "on" won't draw from, so you know you're almost out and you switch to reserve.

Maybe yours is not stock? No prime, just on and off and fuel hose, no vacuum hose???

[incarceration]

Maybe yours is not stock? No prime, just on and off and fuel hose, no vacuum hose???

Nope, standard petcock. I have those 3 positions.

[incarceration]

Your jets have been removed before, you can see the slot is a little mangled on the mains.maybe just for cleaning, or mayne swapped out with cheapos from a generic rebuild kit.

Where are you seeing this? Previous posts of mine? If that's where you're getting that info from, I didn't ever replace the main or pilot jets. That's what I was about to do after inspecting the carbs and seeing what # main jet I have in it now.

You might as well go buy a K&N filter for your bike now, it will flow way better than stock. Some bikes you can remove the airbox lid for better flow as well. You are rejetting anyways, so now's a better time than ever to go k&n.

Where and how much should I expect to pay for these? Also, don't those make me EXTREMELY susceptible to water being pulled into the intake as well as rain if it somehow ends up sitting in the rain? I don't have a garage and I actually am in the need of a new cover as the one I had given to me is really worn out and getting holes in it.

Put the plugs in a vice and cut off almost all of the threaded part of the plug to reveal the entire recessed portion of the ceramic insulator that is exposed to the combustion.

You're wanting me to destroy a set of new plugs? O_o
Btw, I'm actually going to get new plugs when I decide what I need to get\buy for the carbs to fix the severe loss of power (running lean?) issue I'm having now. Again, this had to be abruptly put off til this weekend as I have other things that have to be taken care of (assignment in one of my classes due Thurs and a test in another class this Thurs as well and I work full time.)

Z1 is great, jetsrus.com have oem equivalents and mikuni's for good prices. Yours may be the "small round main jet," rather than the large round mains. Also referred to as slot head mikuni's, since the bs32's etc use a hex head and not a screwdriver slot.

I was going to get them from here: http://www.z1enterprises.com/ShopByC...ory=0102040206
Which btw, my main jet looks like the round with a flat head notch in them

Since you dont know if you have 115 or 120 (both stock) or non-stock, I'd swap a k&n filter in & try mains from 132.5 down to 125. They come in 2.5 incriments. That would require 10 jets plus $7 shipping. Start swapping them in and do a plug chop on each size. Rich will sound kinda muffled and mushy, lean will sound sharp & zingy. Max power will be had 1 jet size up from dangerously lean.

Again, where do I get the filters from and I'd need 5 different jets for each carb for a total of 10?! lol holy crap I just spent ~$500 for the upgrades I've done already.

[Chuck78]

Great links on this subject:

http://jetsrus.com/FAQs/FAQ_spark_plugs.htm

http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-tips/maintenance/carburators/68-tuning-carbs-by-reading-spark-plugsthrottle-chop.html

http://jetsrus.com/FAQs/FAQ_rejetting_101_how_to_rejet.htm

http://www.strappe.com/plugs.html

http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticle...ark-plugs.html

[incarceration]

I just edited my last post after my quick response wasn't very much.

[Chuck78]

That's the photo from the jetsrus plug chop article ( you are concerned only with the top portion of the plug, left is black and sooty -way too rich, middle is a nice light tan all the way to the bottom, right has no coloration - engine running too lean/hot, burning off all coloration.

Those are my plugs below it. 115 now is pretty great, may try a 112.5 but doubt any smaller. It has great power now compared to the bigger jets. 100 to 105 was stock, so 3 to 6 sizes larger depending on the baseline stock setup and the final results from reading the plugs. 4-1 & k&n filters on mine. So I'd try 125-132.5, but if you can spare some cash. Having 122.5's & 135's on hand would be nice. A lot of shops carry the EBC/RD mikuni style jets which are less than $3 each and a secent oem equivalent. Call around before you commit to a bunch of jets at $7/shipping per order. Mikuni genuine jets are $6-7 each.

[Chuck78]

Pods make wet weather riding really stink. Get a k&n filter that replaces the stock one that goes in your airbox. Tuning with pods is harder. keep the airbox if you dont mind the look, put a washable oiled k&n filter in the airbox.

[incarceration]

Pods make wet weather riding really stink. Get a k&n filter that replaces the stock one that goes in your airbox. Tuning with pods is harder. keep the airbox if you dont mind the look, put a washable oiled k&n filter in the airbox.

Ohh ok, I was assuming when you said "get a K&N filter" that you meant the pods. Do you know where I can get the filter for my stock box?

[incarceration]

OKAY!

I have both carbs off and taken apart, please, comment now and help me with what I should be looking for and what I should be changing\upgrading\cleaning\adjusting\etc

The 2 main jets on the carbs are MIKUNI R 115 and my pilot jets are 45

I can see the square inside of the square on both

[incarceration]

Ok so I found some Main and Pilot Jet retailers.

Here are my findings, please let me know if this is what is recommended:

Pilot Jet #47.5 - bleeder type:

http://www.power-barn.com/servlet/the-1186/Mikuni-M28-fdsh-1001-Pilot-Slow/Detail

Main Jets #125 and 130:

http://www.power-barn.com/servlet/the-1181/Mikuni-N100.604-Large-Round/Detail

Should I buy the 47.5 pilot jet? I have 45 right now. Also, the ones I have now are non-bleeders, those are bleeders - any difference?

[incarceration]

WTF -_-

I got the new jets in, put everything back together all nice, go and get the key and it doesn't start! It just sits there trying to start over and over and over.

I pulled the plugs and touched each one to the case, the left one isn't even sparking! Why is it that it would start right up before but now 1-2 weeks later while just waiting for the parts to come in, one of the plugs isn't sparking?

I swapped the plugs to see if it was the plugs and nothing more, when I swapped, it still didn't spark on the left side. So it's not the plugs themselves but something up the line.


WHY?!

I'm getting SO frustrated.

[DonL]

Check the connectors for the wires coming up from the right side of the motor (From the 'Points' cover on the right side) to the "ignitor" (the ignition box). Unplug..put some dielectric grease in/on the connectors and plug it in again. Also, the large connector going to the "ignitor" (ignition box) needs the same clean/ dielectric grease/ and replugging. I had the same thing on my 450T and it just went DEAD. Performed this and it runs great now. (Dielectric grease available at walmart, autoparts store. Get the small tube)

[incarceration]

Check the connectors for the wires coming up from the right side of the motor (From the 'Points' cover on the right side) to the "ignitor" (the ignition box). Unplug..put some dielectric grease in/on the connectors and plug it in again. Also, the large connector going to the "ignitor" (ignition box) needs the same clean/ dielectric grease/ and replugging. I had the same thing on my 450T and it just went DEAD. Performed this and it runs great now. (Dielectric grease available at walmart, autoparts store. Get the small tube)

Are you referring to the round SUZUKI cover on the right side of the motor?

I traced that wire back (it was in like a mesh sheath) to a white plug on the left of the voltage regulator\rectifier. Is that what you're saying needs cleaning and grease?

Also, if I take that plate off, is there any fluid in there that's going to leak out\need to be replenished?

I think I may have done something really stupid when I was out there checking voltages and continuity, I unplugged one of the coil wires from the coil to the spark plug and it just has like 7 bare wires sticking out.


I've included pictures of everything I referenced in this post here:

http://imageshack.us/g/1/10334424/

I also wanted to follow up with what I did in response to the previous responses on here.

I checked the voltage coming from the battery's negative terminal to the coil in question, it had ~11VDC, as did the right coil and after crank attempts I notice both coils are somewhat warmer than ambient temp.

UPDATE:
Here's an updated album, with pictures from the inside of the cap on the right of the motor:

http://imageshack.us/g/1/10334467/

UPDATE 2:
I just put dielectric grease on the connector coming from the right cover and the igniter connector itself, no change, still not starting up.