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Being dented should not change the way the float works. Unless there is a hole in them the internally air volume will not have changed and the weight of the float is still the same. As long as they float and are not being interfered with use them. I have used dented floats before without problems. If they have a hole in them , then it is a different story.1984 GS1100GK newest addition to the heard
80 GS 1000gt- most favorite ride love this bike
1978 GS1000E- Known as "RoadKill" , Finished :D
83 gs750ed- first new purchase
85 EX500- vintage track weapon
1958Ducati 98 Tourismo
“Remember When in doubt use full throttle, It may not improve the situation ,but it will end the suspense ,
If it isn't going to make it faster or safer it isn't worth doing
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Being dented doesn't change the weight of the float or the amount of air in the float.
Like a boat, the float displaces an amount of fuel so that the weight of the displaced fuel is the same as the float weight.
As tkent02 said, a dented float sits lower in the fuel. This causes the fuel level to be higher & the bike to run very rich.
Suzuki issued a two-stroke service bulletin about dented floats when these bikes were in production.
They said that dented floats can result in piston seizures.
NOS floats are still available from Suzuki. They are pricey but are also really cheap when compared to the price of a new top end.
The float level adjustment technique that habsdoc mentioned might work out ok.
Absent that, you should replace the floats.
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Hey guys, sorry for not getting back to the forum yesterday. Got hung up on a few things.
The boiling didn't work. But it did smell a bit nasty and that was fun.
Jabcb, sounds like you're familiar with these bikes. I tried every word combination possible on the Suzuki 2 Stroke forum but couldn't find anything so I thought I would try asking here. I was afraid that the shape, or mis-shape, of the floats, would effect float height. I will check out the bulletins you mentioned.
here is a pic of one of the offenders before cleaning:
I'll try and get some pics of the damaged floats loaded up to this thread later today.
Thanks for everyone's help.sigpic
1974 GT750 ...done, running and sold
1974 GT550 .... under construction (done and sold)
1978 GS550........all stock, running (going to do 550/650 build with it)
1978 GS1000...another project (Given to son #2)
1982 GS750EZ ...daily driver(given to son#1)
1982 GS1100G...completed and traded to son #2 for the 750 back
1982 GS750EZ...daily driver (got it back in trade with son #2)
1983 GR650 Tempter.... engine rebuild completed (and sold)
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Ok, here's a pic of one of the dented floats. This is pretty much the average size of the dents.
One set of floats has one dented side on one of the floats, the second set has one dented side on both floats and the third is fine. I caught myself before I dented it.
Hopefully this will clear up my dilemma.sigpic
1974 GT750 ...done, running and sold
1974 GT550 .... under construction (done and sold)
1978 GS550........all stock, running (going to do 550/650 build with it)
1978 GS1000...another project (Given to son #2)
1982 GS750EZ ...daily driver(given to son#1)
1982 GS1100G...completed and traded to son #2 for the 750 back
1982 GS750EZ...daily driver (got it back in trade with son #2)
1983 GR650 Tempter.... engine rebuild completed (and sold)
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Originally posted by jabcb View Post
As tkent02 said, a dented float sits lower in the fuel. This causes the fuel level to be higher & the bike to run very rich.
Suzuki issued a two-stroke service bulletin about dented floats when these bikes were in production.
They said that dented floats can result in piston seizures.
I was thinking a lower floating float would cause it to run richer, but if you adjust the float until the fuel level came out right it should work fine.
I'd put the undented one in the middle cylinder to allow easier float adjustments on the dented ones on the bike.
I think you can pull the float bowl with the carbs on the bike.
If it's true that Suzuki is saying dents can cause siezures I wouldn't even go there, just buy undented floats.
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Thanks tkent02. If I do use these, I had planned on putting the good one in the center so I had access to the outer carbs, just as you suggested.
I guess my problem is that these floats are dented just enough to make me feel 50/50 that it's ok to use them. Yep, they're dented... but not a lot. Just how much would I be off if I use them?...
Knowing how I do things with these older, neglected bikes, I'll probably end up getting new ones. My routine is to double and triple check everything before I start a bike up for the first time. That way, I eliminate any known issues and just focus on the final "fine tuning".
I was hoping someone else had pulled out dents on floats before and I could find some kind of process to fix these.
Thanks again.sigpic
1974 GT750 ...done, running and sold
1974 GT550 .... under construction (done and sold)
1978 GS550........all stock, running (going to do 550/650 build with it)
1978 GS1000...another project (Given to son #2)
1982 GS750EZ ...daily driver(given to son#1)
1982 GS1100G...completed and traded to son #2 for the 750 back
1982 GS750EZ...daily driver (got it back in trade with son #2)
1983 GR650 Tempter.... engine rebuild completed (and sold)
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
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Not sure about the GT service manuals, but GS manuals have a fuel level specification. This is the important spec, not the float height. Make a tool and measure fuel level and adjust the float height as needed.
Regarding the dents, what about a heat gun on the floats to see if you can get the dents to pop out?
Alternately, you could use something like 5 min epoxy and attach a couple of toothpicks to work as pullers. Just be sure to clean off the epoxy after you are done.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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I'd like to help - fixing what you have is tricky. I polished the floats inside my smoothbores - so I know what you are dealing with.
the puller with wire and epoxy is a good one I have not tried.
it is pretty tempting to squeeze the brass bubbles - like bubble wrap-
submerged in boiling water will push out dents ,be ready to quick cool
strong vacuum source will pull out a dent -
re-soldiering a leaky one that has fluid inside it is easy-
messed up floats need extra tuning attention -it's possible to get it perfect, but it is always in the back of your mind. -- that float.....SUZUKI , There is no substitute
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Funny that these options have been thrown out there. I've been considering doing the same thing. My first thought was to use the hot glue I have that came with a dent puller kit I bought. But use a screw as the puller with the head against the float like tkent02 said. But I'm afraid the metal might be too soft to pull the glue off cleanly.
I've even considered using chewing gum with a screw and let it sit for a few days. You know, like when you used to find gum stuck under your desk at school that has been there a few days. It gets hard but you can still pull it off.
I'm going to give it some thought before I just buy some new ones. I like a good challenge.
And Nessism, I agree with your thoughts. It is all about proper fuel level. And to make matters even more confusing, the Suzuki carb manual says these floats should be measured by, and I quote .." Tilt the chamber at 10~30 degrees from vertical" when setting the float height. So I want this done correctly. In my bike rehabs, I really find it easier if I can keep things as close to actual stock conditions as possible.
For myself, so any future work can be easily done by just following the manual. As well as for any future owner of the bike, so any work done by them later on leaves no questions in their minds. I know I wouldn't want to open up some carbs and find dented floats and have to go about figuring how to set the proper height.
Thanks for the input everyone and keep them coming.sigpic
1974 GT750 ...done, running and sold
1974 GT550 .... under construction (done and sold)
1978 GS550........all stock, running (going to do 550/650 build with it)
1978 GS1000...another project (Given to son #2)
1982 GS750EZ ...daily driver(given to son#1)
1982 GS1100G...completed and traded to son #2 for the 750 back
1982 GS750EZ...daily driver (got it back in trade with son #2)
1983 GR650 Tempter.... engine rebuild completed (and sold)
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perhaps some super glue on a wire welding rod? and to remove it after pulling twist it.
To be fair that dent doesn't look excessive so make your gauge and reset the height.sigpic
Don't say can't, as anything is possible with time and effort, but, if you don't have time things get tougher and require more effort.
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Thanks, tatu. That's what I'm fighting internally right now. Are the dents deep enough to cause issues. But one float set has both floats dented on one side each so I am more concerned with that one.sigpic
1974 GT750 ...done, running and sold
1974 GT550 .... under construction (done and sold)
1978 GS550........all stock, running (going to do 550/650 build with it)
1978 GS1000...another project (Given to son #2)
1982 GS750EZ ...daily driver(given to son#1)
1982 GS1100G...completed and traded to son #2 for the 750 back
1982 GS750EZ...daily driver (got it back in trade with son #2)
1983 GR650 Tempter.... engine rebuild completed (and sold)
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